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Back yard lift
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17393		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  pokey555 [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Back yard lift
Since there seems to be a lot of post lately about spring rates and lifts, here is what I am working on for my jeep. I wanted to have the ability to:

Adjust my ride height to keep cv angles in check
Change to any spring rate 100-1000lb/in
Reduce the chance of upper ball joint contact with the shock and spring assembly
Eliminate the need for an aftermarket upper control arm
Use as a foundation for future height increases
Have some adjustment in downward shock travel

Plus I would rather build my own suspension system, then buy it from someone. I still need to correct:

A bolt placement in the shock mount to the body. (I made a mistake of 0.060" during machining)
A larger bearing for the shock mount.
Rear setup, for now I will use use a spring and shock and eventually do a similar setup as the front once it is sorted.

As soon as the temperature increases to ~20F and I increase the shock bearing I will install it and let everyone the results.

Rob

[img][img]http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u291/crs230/DSCN2058.jpg[/img][/img]
Author:  pokey555 [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
Picture added
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 1:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sooooo. Your wanting to lift your Jeep? Is that what all that means? :lol:


You want to pick and choose what shocks you want to use and what springs you want to use?

Thats kinda what I did. I used OME rear shocks and HD OME springs along with Air ride Air bags. On the front, I have OME shocks, with Rustys front springs and a custom droop bump stop since i added 2 conduit nuts for the clevis lift. My Jeep sits level and the CV joints look "ok." I have an extra set of rear isolators if I ever what to lift the rear alittle so that its higher than the front.

:)
Author:  pokey555 [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
I went a different path, by pressing on a threaded sleeve to allow ride height adjustments and a 2.5" id coil spring at 450lb. A picture would clarify what I apparently did not describe very well, however; I do not have a place to host the picture. If someone would like to host it for me I can forward it.
Author:  jerbacher [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just use photobucket.com. It's really easy and free.
Author:  Jeger [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 3:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ah, you made your own adjustable coil overs...NICE. More details please and bigger pictures would be great. You could have started something here. Are those standard shocks/struts? And what is the spring for? I really think you may be on to something here. 8)
Author:  hckyrugb [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 3:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
I can't wait to see these coilovers mounted!
Author:  swyszomirski [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 5:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
What about using the adjustable Rancho shocks, I have heard they work well.

Stepen
Author:  Maximum Carnage [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Did someone say coilovers? I would love to know how it works out let us know, with pics.
Author:  RespectMyLibertay [ Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm pretty sure the KJ's strut assembly is considered a "coil-over", since the coil spring is over the strut. It's nothing new, he just wants to make it adjustable, which is way cool. If only we had a bigger lift to do this sort of thing with :twisted:
Author:  pokey555 [ Thu Feb 08, 2007 8:48 am ]
Post subject: 
I would not consider this a novel setup, the factory setup is a coil over shock. I am just adding ride height, spring rate and travel adjustment to the factory design. I used the Rancho strut, and a Hypercoil spring, everything else I designed. I could have used any 2.5 ID spring from any manufacture, but I have used Hypercoil springs in the past.

At the risk of sounding anal retentive here is a basic non technical definition of shock and struts. A strut in addition to damping suspension oscillation is a structural member. A shock is not used as structural member and usually has a smaller piston in comparison to a strut. The liberty has upper and lower control arms, the arms are structural members and the system uses a shock. A strut is used when there is only a lower control arm.

I will include a detailed report and installation pictures as soon as I correct the previously listed problems.

Rob
Author:  Jeger [ Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:48 am ]
Post subject: 
pokey555 wrote:
I would not consider this a novel setup, the factory setup is a coil over shock. I am just adding ride height, spring rate and travel adjustment to the factory design. I used the Rancho strut, and a Hypercoil spring, everything else I designed. I could have used any 2.5 ID spring from any manufacture, but I have used Hypercoil springs in the past.

At the risk of sounding anal retentive here is a basic non technical definition of shock and struts. A strut in addition to damping suspension oscillation is a structural member. A shock is not used as structural member and usually has a smaller piston in comparison to a strut. The liberty has upper and lower control arms, the arms are structural members and the system uses a shock. A strut is used when there is only a lower control arm.

I will include a detailed report and installation pictures as soon as I correct the previously listed problems.

Rob


I will look forward to the update. I do really like your idea, It gives a lot more options for CRD owners and folks with ARB bumpers etc. What would be nice is if we could find a longer strut that will fit our clevis so we can squeeze some more wheel travel out of this sucker.
Author:  Big D [ Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:52 am ]
Post subject: 
To save your self a lot of time in production, check out some adjustable spacers from some rice rockets or autobahn burners. I looked into this before but eventually got lazy. I'm pretty sure you could find an adjustable spacer that would fit the KJ strut assembly.
Author:  fortx4 KJ [ Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
what type of treaded sleaves did you use? I got a set of old coilovers but i'm scared to go out wheeling with a set up like that.
Author:  pokey555 [ Fri Feb 23, 2007 1:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Here a quick update on my project, I will post some pictures later. I have installed and removed the "lift" seven times and have cut my install time from four to two hours from when I enter the garage to leaving it.

The bad:
I need to locate or fabricate longer front bumpstops.
Need to purchase two more spring rates to tune the ride. The 425 springs were a bit soft, for reference I have a stock appearing CRD.
Disassembly is required to adjust the ride height due to the upper control arm interference with the spanner wrench and minimal fender wheel clearance.

The good:
Downward Suspension distance increased 3/4" (19mm) and I have another 1” (25mm) of adjustment left. No driveline bind has been perceived at this time.
The closest the upper control arm approaches the shock assembly is approximately 1.5" (38mm).
Ride Height adjustment is 1" lower and 3" (75mm) higher measured at the engine cross member to the ground.

Rob
Author:  pokey555 [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Image
Image
Image[/img]
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 2:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
The smalloer OD Spring you use really gives you some UBJ clearance...nice work! It is a shame you can't reach the threaded portion without dissassembly...I wonder if you could "unload" the coil tension, could you turn the threaded collar by hand?
Author:  pokey555 [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 5:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
It was difficult to turn the perch with a spanner wrench when the suspension was unloaded, let alone by hand. I tried a "small finger" coil spring compressor which ended up grabbing the threaded sleeve. I figured it would take the same amount of time to remove the assembly than mess with the spring compressor.

Fortx4,

Sorry I missed your post; I designed/fabricated my own spring perch and sleeve. I also did not trust parts designed for cars.

Rob
Author:  OzLtd [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 7:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Rob / Pokey555, nice work.

I looked into this a few months back but funds and time were not on my side.

I like what you've done, but there are a few things I noticed that concern me.

You dont have any upper rubber spring pads / isolators ? That would transmit more NVH through to the vehicle. the steel coil will also rub & grind its way through to the aluminium top strut cap you've machined and potentailly squeek ? A chemical reaction will also occur between the steel & aluminium surfaces.

I cant see a top rubber insulator where the shock pin protrudes through ? This rubber acts as a bit of cusion during the up & down stroke.

I like how it elimninates the UBJ contact on the A Arm.
Author:  pokey555 [ Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
The top plate is not aluminum, its steel, and I did not paint it yet. Rubber bushings do insulate the occupants from road noise, however; the side effects are nonlinear resistance, undesired/uncontrolled deflection, and the system response changes with age. I just generally dislike rubber in a suspension system and believe it should only be used in tires (which it does very well). My goal was not to achieve “luxury car” NVH. There is no rubber bushing it the top plate, I located the shock with a spherical bearing mounted in the axial direction. In my previous posts about spherical bearings (uniballs) when used in this method, I have been negative. But in this case it is the lesser of two evils when compared to rubber. The chemical reaction between the spring steel and spring perch is minimized do to the anodized coating. Thanks for the critical review Oz, keep them coming.

So far road noise is minimal, not noticeable to my modification sensitive wife. She does not want me to "screw up" the Jeep like I did my new autocross car (her previous ride).

Rob
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