Stuck in 4 wheel drive

Bearcatrp · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2005 8:11 pm

Anyone having problems with there 4X4 not disengaging when putting it back in 2 wheel drive? Happended twice in the past 2 weeks. Calling the dealer tomorrow for them to check it out. Only have 17000 on my 04 renegade.
Randy

skrracing · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2005 8:47 pm

I am sure you already know this but the jeep must be moving at a very slow speed like 3 to 7 MPH and then slide the tranny in neutral and then shift the tranfer case into 2 wheel drive. You might have to move the lever over to one side just a bit...but the most inportant thing is that the Kj is moving very slow and the transmission shifted to neutal before you shift the transfer case.

You should not have to shift the tranny into neutal to shift into 4 wheel drive High range...but going into and out of low range you have to shift into netrual. Hope that helps.

I am sure you already know this so please dont hammer me about it...Just a reminder. later...Clint

Cacher123 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:00 pm

Uhh, does that go for the automatic? I usually just pop mine from 2 to 4wd then back again. Low speed but not in neutral. Am I doing something wrong?

kjfishman · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:16 pm

Bearcatrp wrote:

Anyone having problems with there 4X4 not disengaging when putting it back in 2 wheel drive? Happended twice in the past 2 weeks. Calling the dealer tomorrow for them to check it out. Only have 17000 on my 04 renegade.
Randy

I take it you going from 4H to 2WD, you have to back off the gas to get it go back to 2wd sometimes.

uvalax236 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:18 pm

No, Clint was saying if your in 4lo, you need to shift the tranny into neutral before shifting into 4hi or 2hi. When shifting from 2wd to 4hi, keep it slow and shift but you dont need to go to neutral.

lilmatty · **Posted:** Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:40 pm

The process for 4lo should be in the owner's manual...

Bearcatrp · **Posted:** Tue Sep 06, 2005 5:41 am

I come to a complete stop, shift from 4hi or low then go. When it happened both times, I started to back up, heard a loud pop from the rear end. The first time, I was in 4 hi going through the back yard ( 4 acres ), got close to the garage, stopped and put it from 4hi to 2wd then put it in the garage.Backed up next morning and pop. The second time I was 4 wheelin in 4 lo for a couple hours up north, stopped to put in 2wd, started to back up after airing up the tires, and pop again. This time I drove around in circles to see if the front grabbed and sure enough the libby was in 4 hi. Had to put the transfer in nutral, put the tranny in drive, then nutral, then put the transfer in 2 hi. that worked. Now I haven't been 4 wheelin until last saturday so would wheel around the back yard in 4 hi and low every couple weeks to keep things lubed up. Probable needs a minor adjustment from the dealership. I just wanted to see if anyone else was having this problem.
Randy

corwyyn · **Posted:** Tue Sep 06, 2005 10:24 am

Bearcatrp wrote:

I come to a complete stop, shift from 4hi or low then go.
Randy

When you shift from 4hi to 2wd you don't need to be stopped; in fact its not the best thing to do. I have shifted into/out of 4hi at 15-25 mph with no problems, just as it mentions in the owners manual. To get into/out of 4lo, as mentioned above you need to be moving very slowly (but you do need to be moving), shift the tranny to neutral (even with automatic), shift from 4hi to 4lo or 4lo to 4hi, and then shift the tranny back to drive. Its a bit of a dance the first couple of times you do it.

Se7enLC · **Posted:** Tue Sep 06, 2005 10:29 am

sounds kinda like shifting on a bicycle.... if you start clicking the shifters on a bike that's stopped, when you try to get on and ride, it'll clash, kink, and probably not be able to pedal until it gets into whatever gear you picked while it was stopped (if it can even get into gear without the chain getting stuck / dropped off the sprockets).

FreedomKJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 06, 2005 3:31 pm

No one has metioned one of the most important things to remember when shifting in and out fo 4wd. Make sure you are travelling in a straight line and give it some distance before you turn, or the tcase will bind. I usually make sure I go at least 20 feet or so after shifting out of 4wd before I turn, to ensuere the tcase has had a chance to shift.

2003KJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 06, 2005 7:18 pm

I've always shifted in and out while moving. Trick I do is when I shift into 4hi, let off the gas and let it coast for a couple of seconds, then kinda tap the peddle back down (staying in 1st gear helps for me), and you'll feel it kick into 4hi. Same concept for going back to 2hi. Also, make sure you're air pressure is even all around. One tire that is off enough from the rest will play hell with the 4x4 system trying to engage and disengage.

Don't get me wrong on the tapping of the peddal, don't floor it or anything. Just give it a nice little tap and you'll feel go in, might actually hear it too.

Littlehorn · **Posted:** Wed Sep 07, 2005 1:54 pm

How much gear clashing can we get away with? Is it damaging the drive train or add to the slop?

Christopher

Bearcatrp · **Posted:** Wed Sep 07, 2005 2:40 pm

Just got back from the dealship about it. They did replicate what I was complaining about while I was in the vehicle. They put it on the hoist and checked it out. Everything working normal according to them. They did tell me that after disengaging from 4wd to 2wd that it takes a little time for it to fully disengage while still driving. Something to do with these new designs of the 4 wheel drive system. Now get this.. Was told by these folks that the part time 4wd was for hard surfaces only ( slippery/wet ). I asked about sandy conditions and was told not to do that. I plan on emailing DC and ask them about this. Also was told to change the differential fluid and add anti friction stuff to it. Anyone know of this? Now according to the book, supposed to change the dif fluid after heavy towing or 4 wheelin on the next service. Did not see anything about the anti friction stuff though. Was told 200 bucks for that service which includes synthetic oil and anti friction fluid. Pretty high service cost. Anyone tell me how many times you change you dif fluid?
Randy

DoverKJ · **Posted:** Wed Sep 07, 2005 3:27 pm

Change the diffs every 12,000 miles or so. If you have the trac-loc or any limited slip diff you need to add some sort or anti friction lube in with the gear lube or the LSD will not operate correctly. I generally use Amsoil Gear oil and a bottle of their Slip-Lok additive.

Sean · **Posted:** Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:17 pm

I thought you could go from 2hi to 4hi at a speed upto 45 or 55 mph.

To my understanding, the only time you have to worry about anything neutral related is when going to and from 4lo.

But like it has been said, just take your foot off the gas and then back on if it doesnt instantly disengage.

While we are on the topic, I have been wheeling about 5 times and have 11K on my lib and havent changed any fluids (besides oil) yet... do you all change your fluids after every wheeling trip?

Tradewindkj · **Posted:** Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:01 pm

No,

Just follow normal Mantinence after towing, off roading, whatever. Unless you go scuba diving with it ......... then change out the diff fluids.

WV(0)IIIIIII(0) · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:45 am

Off road help
This will help you to understand how, when and where to use your 4wd

spog · **Joined:** Sat Sep 03, 2005 8:26 pm **Posts:** 5

Hey Bearcat. I think your dealer has got a few things wrong, but the advice on this page is good regarding changing between 2 and 4wd. The part time 4wd is only for loose surfaces. Part time locks the front and back diffs together and if you drive on hard surfaces you could wind up your trannies and pay a lot to get them fixed. If you run it on hard surfaces in 4wd it must be in full time 4wd. This mode changes the KJ so that it is like an all wheel drive vehicle, which are designed for hard surfaces.

RE. the rear diff, if towing you need to have the oil upgraded with anti friction fluid. To do this the diff cover has to be removed, resealed and attached again. It is a bit of work, but I think $200 is the max you should pay. Had mine done in oz for $160...about US$120.

Bearcatrp · **Posted:** Sun Sep 11, 2005 4:33 pm

I kinda thought they had there head up there booty. I went ahead and changed it myself. Used the pump I bought for putting the new stuff in to pump it out. Plenty of room for the hose to fit to the bottom so didn't remove the dif cover. According to my manual, only have to add anti friction stuff is if I have trac lok which I don't. You would think they would want you to put it in anyways regardless to help the gears out. Emailed DC to see what they have to say about it. Thanks for the reply.
Randy

Stuck in 4 wheel drive

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