I've heard of some people cracking the aluminum housing on the front Dana 30 while out playing too hard. I'm wanting to get ARB lockers for both front and rear, but do not want to run into this problem. Other than replacing IFS to SFA, what can I do to ease my mind a little of this ever happining, while I am under getting dirty?

Don't have one front wheel in the air,spinning than come down and grab traction,that's when they grenade.There is a collar you can get(there is a post about a group buy for one somewhere hear),but these are unproven as of yet.

Like Troy said, a front wheel that is spinning free and then grabs traction is one of the more common ways of breaking the front differential, but is you plan on using an ARB it can grenade anytime the front locker is engaged. ARB's are not recommended for the front diff on the libby.

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2005 CRD , Moab Rims, 245/75/16 Goodyear M/T
RL rear bumper, TMJ Front bumper, Frankenlinft,
*TOTALED*

1985 Mitsubishi Pickup SP 2.3 Turbo Diesel Watercooled turbo,4D56 ported head,
12" Suspension Lift with JK Rubicon axles, Elockers, 5.13's, Fox coilovers, Atlas 5.0, Rock Lizard supersliders

1996 Lexus LX450 -locked and lifted-

Tell USAFCOP that. He has the ARB locker up front and it's been there for a few years now. He uses it up in these baby hills called Rocky Mountains.

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2004 Renegade Light Khaki - 4" JBA Lift - Rock Lizard Products: Komodo Dragon Rear Bumper, Prototype Winch-mount Front Bumper, Super Skink Sliders - All J's Super Tranny Skid II - 31" Firestone Destination AT's on Moab wheels - Cobra 75W CB w/ stock Antenna mod

[b]Retired, US Military

Yep, got ARB's in both ends, no serious problems ever, except an air leak or two, and a dealer screwing with it ( they paid to rebuild the ARB, housing is still the same as I got new).

Only thing I would say is be carefull where you drill for the air line, The ARB instructions wanted you to drill in a thin spot, so we chose to drill right where the oil catch funnel goes instead. As you may have read in many posts, these guys all think I trash my Jeep, but I have yet to break the housing, a couple CV shafts yes, housing no.

I do believe it is the wheel spin (that I avoid at all costs) that causes the grenading regardless of what is inside. Factory, ARb, True Trac, all have been blown up by someone. looking at one that blew in Moab, it looks like the input pinion gear tries to walk up the ring gear, and the aluminum is weaker than the steel gears, so that is what gives way.

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If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

has anyone considered painting a coating of jbweld over the whole housing?

any thoughts?

(if you get a patent and i dont get some credit and residuals, i'll come find you)

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I have considered installing an ARB up front to make the D30 stronger. The components in the kit are designed to add strength to the diff. While this may not make up for the aditional stress of when the diff is locked-- I can control when (if ever) it is locked or not and the added strength is always there (including the 99% of the time when the diff is unlocked).

Plus, figure that the locked choice gives you the ability to avoid wheel spin followed by that sudden shock load when traction is gained. Used correctly, this should help you avoid blowing the diff. Used incorrectly, a locker can break a very strong diff, let alone a D30.

Thanks for info. I knew wheel spin was the main destroyer. But have heard of ARB lockers causing damage. Questions have been answered, Thanx again.