Locker Questions

jedi4x4 · **Joined:** Thu Apr 19, 2007 2:21 pm **Posts:** 58

Ok guys, got a few questions for ya...

I want to get a locker of some sort before camp jeep this year. I was looking at the powertrax because it says it's easy to install, but I wanted to get your guy's thoughts. price doesn't matter as long as it's under $1000, but I want to make sure it's semi-easy to put on... I was able to install my budget lift kit, but I wouldn't be able to rebuild my engine

if that gives you any idea of my skill level.

Also,
How do I know what sizes I need to order? I have an 02 pre-lowered limited.

Thanks!

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:37 am

If the price is not a big deal, then get an ARB Airlocker. It is simply the best you can get.

The install will be more involved, but if you are willing to do most of it yourself you might get away for around 1000

jedi4x4 · **Joined:** Thu Apr 19, 2007 2:21 pm **Posts:** 58

is it way more complicated than the cheaper ones?

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:18 am

The air locker will require that you get an air source. Either a 12volt air pump or an air bottle. But, as stated it is the best.

Terry

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:18 am

jedi4x4 wrote:

is it way more complicated than the cheaper ones?

Yeah, but if you are willing to spend $1000 dollars you could buy the locker for around $725 or so and pay someone to set the backlash etc on your gears. If it were me I would do it like this. Pull entire rear axle, take out old guts, put in new ARB stuff, then take it to a shop where they can set your gears proper, reinstall axle.

You would also need to install the air compressor and associated wiring / plumbing yoursef...You could get by with a cheap Harbor Freight air compressor and upgrade it later if you need to.

You might go a little over $1000 But I think it would be worth it if you are willing to spend that much.

Lots of folks sell the ARB...here is one of them.
http://c-comp.com/index.php?cPath=72_82_94

myjeepwalks · **Posted:** Fri Apr 27, 2007 9:02 pm

As stated before ARB air lockers are the best but also the most expensive. If you get a powertrax no-slip that is a "lunchbox" locker meaning you just swap the guts out of the diff carrier. Any thing else is a carrier replacement that will require setting up backlash and carrier bearing preload. If you're not familiar with setting up gears i would recommend leaving that the to pro's. I just installed a factory trac-lok and love it.

spencevans · **Posted:** Fri Apr 27, 2007 11:52 pm

If you get an ARB, I would highly recommend not getting the ARB compressor. I would get a Powertank instead. Compressors are way overrated.

unixxx · **Posted:** Sun Apr 29, 2007 7:35 pm

jedi4x4, a lunch box locker is the best choice if you want to install one yourself. The non-lunch box ARB RD93 is an excellent choice if you can have a shop install one. The non-lunch box lockers require extensive knowledge of gear setup, many special tools, and lots of time but can still be installed yourself if you're determined.

Lunch Box Lockers:

Aussie Locker (XD-13027):
http://c-comp.com/product_info.php?products_id=242

Powertrax No-Slip Open Carrier (92-0382-2905)
http://c-comp.com/product_info.php?products_id=236

Powertrax No-Slip Trac-Loc Carrier (92-0382-2925)
http://c-comp.com/product_info.php?products_id=237

ARBSeth · **Posted:** Sun Apr 29, 2007 8:16 pm

You only need two special tools to install any carrier in the 8.25...
a dial indicator... most people have them if they turn their own wrenches
And a Spanner tool for the axle housing. Around $45 from any diff shop.
Backlash on used 8.25 gears is set at .006 - .010 Tighter is better. If it whines, you're too tight. To re-set your lash, push the ring gear/carrier assembly all the way into the pinion with the carrier-side side adjuster, tighten both sides. Loosen the ring gear side ever so slightly, tighten the other side to keep it in there then check the lash with a dial indicator. Rinse wash and repeat until it's right. No shims makes it a snap with the 8.25. Don't be afraid to do it yourself.

Using the CKSA12 keeps the cost down; you can pick up the whole set up with wiring, solenoid and switches for under a grand easy.

unixxx · **Posted:** Sun Apr 29, 2007 9:12 pm

The pinion might need to be ground and re-shimmed to clear the carrier. In this case, the following tools will also be required:

250 lb-ft Torque Wrench or Breaker Bar
Beam or Dial lb-in Torque Wrench
Micrometer
Pinion Holder
Custom Pinion Socket
Custom Bearing Driver
Bearing Puller

Seth, which product contains solenoid wiring and switch wiring?

ARBSeth wrote:

You only need two special tools to install any carrier in the 8.25...
a dial indicator... most people have them if they turn their own wrenches
And a Spanner tool for the axle housing. Around $45 from any diff shop.
Backlash on used 8.25 gears is set at .006 - .010 Tighter is better. If it whines, you're too tight. To re-set your lash, push the ring gear/carrier assembly all the way into the pinion with the carrier-side side adjuster, tighten both sides. Loosen the ring gear side ever so slightly, tighten the other side to keep it in there then check the lash with a dial indicator. Rinse wash and repeat until it's right. No shims makes it a snap with the 8.25. Don't be afraid to do it yourself.

Using the CKSA12 keeps the cost down; you can pick up the whole set up with wiring, solenoid and switches for under a grand easy.

rubigade · **Posted:** Sun May 06, 2007 3:40 am

Wow guys! I always thought I could do about anything on a rig. However, I just WATCHED a shop install my ARB and I am glad I did NOT try it myself!!
Ya'll must be something else and have a crazy shop full of cool tools. What I saw makes me glad they did it. I won't be wondering, with every little noise and rattle if my rearend is falling out and if it is, what did I do wrong. Here's what I considered.
1. I was NOT going to set a budget for a running gear item like a locker. I wanted the best and I did not want alot of popping or banging that you get from a mechanical locker.
2. Since $ WAS considered, I just bought the locker at one point, stored it in my garage and paid my, get this, local Jeep Dealer to do the install at a later date. Their work is warranted and I know the parts are, partly because an experienced installer did the work.
3. I can't speak for a Powertank. I did strongly consider one. I can say that if you are considering $, they are expensive and take up alot of space and shouldn't be visible from the outside for obvious reasons. I can also say they only STORE compressed air. When they're out, they're out! My compressor can keep making more. I did not want a large something-or-other to fill my cargo area. I wanted a little bitty one so I bought the ARB portable compressor which is really nice and I could carry it from car to car if I took a trip in the AV. But then I went to ebay and remembering my dump truck driving days, typed in "air horn tank". Bingo, this cute little 5.5"X15"X7" all in one tank AND compressor popped up for $119 and NO shipping. I bought it, it's installed, pumps up to 130 and cuts off automatically and, heres the cool part... I bought a little black metal tool box, cut the bottom out of it and mounted it right down around this compressor/1 gallon air tank. Open the rear doors and all an untrained eye sees is "nailed down" tool box... look in the window, the same. No one's gonna care that I've got a tool box back there, but a Powertank?? Can you say "Free"! Just a word. My install is clean and neat and works really well! The switches are mounted discreetly under the column and the compressor is quiet, yet I can still hear it. I'm ready to "rock"!

jcphoto20 · **Joined:** Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:36 am **Posts:** 507

id go for a truetrac up front and one of the electrical lockers for the rear.

while im not totally familiar with the reliability of the electric locker, i would think less parts=less parts to fail?

chefdab · **Posted:** Mon May 07, 2007 1:13 pm

I don't believe anyone actually makes an electric locker for the 8.25.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon May 07, 2007 1:41 pm

chefdab wrote:

I don't believe anyone actually makes an electric locker for the 8.25.

Yep, no E-lockers for the 8.25,Auburn said no plans for one,Detroit only makes them for d44's and d60's.

jcphoto20 · **Joined:** Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:36 am **Posts:** 507

poopie

Gringo Loco · **Posted:** Mon May 07, 2007 3:25 pm

Hey rubigade, got pics? I would like to see the set up.

Thanx

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Tue May 08, 2007 12:44 am

Auburn does make the E-locker for a D-30.

Some info from their emails to me.

David,
We should fit this application as well. The only potential problem I see is if there is enough internal clearance for the coil. With the aluminum housing, there may be less clearance for the ECTED coil, so some grinding may be required. Since I can't keep it straight in my head which vehicles have what, I'll just state that we do not recommend the ECTED on applications with the inter-axle disconnect.
Best regards,
James Forrest
Product Engineering

The ECTED is a limited-slip differential with a controllable lock-up feature. This means that the differential functions as a limited-slip until switched ON. When switched ON, the differential functions as a locked differential. The lock-up feature trumps the limited-slip feature when turned ON.

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 4:29 pm

I thought Detroit's E-Locker (not EZ) works the 30a? I'd rather that than Ected, but I'll probably just get the ARB.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 6:10 pm

DaveKJ02 wrote:

I thought Detroit's E-Locker (not EZ) works the 30a? I'd rather that than Ected, but I'll probably just get the ARB.

Last I saw the Detriot E-locker only was availiable for the d44 and d60's,they may have made one for the d30's,not real sure.

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Wed May 09, 2007 7:16 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Last I saw the Detriot E-locker only was availiable for the d44 and d60's,they may have made one for the d30's,not real sure.

I seem to remember reading they released it at SEMA a few months back. Here's the only info I could find now...

http://www.eatonperformance.com/press_r ... ffers.html

More expensive than an ARB and since I already have an ARB in the rear, it looks like thats whats going up front.

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