ARB question

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Tue Sep 27, 2005 2:27 pm

Which setup would be better:

ARB Locker in Rear (replace factory LSD) but no front locker

or

Leave factory LSD in rear and install ARB in front

gundrted · **Posted:** Tue Sep 27, 2005 3:39 pm

i would have to go with the LSD in the rear and locker (air or elec) in the front.

with all the motor wieght over the front wheels i think having the front lockup with give the biggest plus. then you still have the LSD in the rear to help push.

just my 2 cents ...... it will be a while before i get to play with this option

My 02 KJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 27, 2005 8:50 pm

arb makes a locker for the front?

Skyjump136 · **Joined:** Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:50 pm **Posts:** 1633

Yes, they make a locker for the front.

I'd go with the back first however. In 4 wheel drive I believe the power gets split like 45/55 front and rear. I'd like to have the locked axle where the majority of my power is coming from.

KW AV8R · **Posted:** Tue Sep 27, 2005 9:57 pm

I can't say for sure one way or the other since I don't have lockers but .... I've talked to quite a few people with lockers front and rear and I have the factory LSD. The factory LSD is a POS that never locks up when you really need it. Most of the people I've talked to with both front and rear lockers say that they hardly ever use their front locker but use their rear all the time. Putting all that together, I would opt for a rear locker to replace the factory LSD.

Look at that. I'm a junkie now! 100 posts. woohoo!

ARBSeth · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 1:17 pm

Hey Guys,

In my opinion, run the locker in the rear, and leave the front alone. Locking it up in the rear will push you over all but the worst stuff. Let's face it, we're not very tall, you're not entering UROC in the thing. The front diff is weak, and the CV's SUCK. I just fixed my right side AGAIN.

I have em front and rear and I get parts for free or next to it because of where I work, and I still don't use the front locker unless I'm hip deep in the mud and have no other choice. So get the one for the rear, and if you have to have it, run a selectable in the front so you can turn it off and release it when you think it might break something.

Now, if your'e cash strapped and can't swing an RD93 tomorrow, here's a little trick to help that TrashLoc work a little better for you...

Use your brakes in conjunction with throttle. It'll cause a greater torque shift and help the clutches hook in a little better for you.. also, change your diff fluid, DON'T USE SYNTHETIC, and put a fresh bottle of posi fluid in it, that helps too.

Good luck!

Loopkey · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 1:35 pm

Skyjump136 wrote:

Yes, they make a locker for the front.

I'd go with the back first however. In 4 wheel drive I believe the power gets split like 45/55 front and rear. I'd like to have the locked axle where the majority of my power is coming from.

FYI According to jeep.com the power split is 50/50 in Part Time and with selec-trac in Full Time it's 48/52.

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 2:40 pm

ARBSeth,

Thanks for the info, but why not Synth Fluid? Tell me more about the Posi fluid. What is it and what benefits does it give?

Since you get great deals on ARB's, can you swing a LOST deal? Hey! I gotta ask. Can't hurt. :wink:

Skyjump136 · **Joined:** Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:50 pm **Posts:** 1633

02limited wrote:

Skyjump136 wrote:

Yes, they make a locker for the front.

I'd go with the back first however. In 4 wheel drive I believe the power gets split like 45/55 front and rear. I'd like to have the locked axle where the majority of my power is coming from.

FYI According to jeep.com the power split is 50/50 in Part Time and with selec-trac in Full Time it's 48/52.

Cool, thanks for the info. I knew I had read something like that.

ARBSeth · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 2:48 pm

Diff 101 in a nutshell: Synthetic fluid is too slippery to run in a posi, it doesn't let the clutches work they way they're supposed to. Eaton, Auburn and Dana all say the same thing....For those of you who remember, I was a sales guy for Randy's for awhile and we saw this all the time. Even with the TrueTrac I used to run in mine, it let the worm gears move a little too freely and made some noise when I ran Syn. Fluid, switched it back to std, no more problems.

Run your usual 80/90 or whatever is clever in your neck of the woods and a bottle of Friction modifier in the fluid. Posi fluid allows the cluthes to grab even when they're running in nasty diff oil, that's why you need it. If you replace your clutches in the TracLoc, soak those suckers in posi fluid before install. Put one bottle in with every diff oil change, and you're all set. It's $5 and worth every penny, otherwise it'll seize up, bang pop and sound like you blew a spider gear.

Good luck!

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

ARBSeth wrote:

Diff 101 in a nutshell: Synthetic fluid is too slippery to run in a posi, it doesn't let the clutches work they way they're supposed to. Eaton, Auburn and Dana all say the same thing....For those of you who remember, I was a sales guy for Randy's for awhile and we saw this all the time. Even with the TrueTrac I used to run in mine, it let the worm gears move a little too freely and made some noise when I ran Syn. Fluid, switched it back to std, no more problems.

Run your usual 80/90 or whatever is clever in your neck of the woods and a bottle of Friction modifier in the fluid. Posi fluid allows the cluthes to grab even when they're running in nasty diff oil, that's why you need it. If you replace your clutches in the TracLoc, soak those suckers in posi fluid before install. Put one bottle in with every diff oil change, and you're all set. It's $5 and worth every penny, otherwise it'll seize up, bang pop and sound like you blew a spider gear.

Good luck!

Hey Seth, would would be your opinion on the difference synth or none-synth in a something like a powertrax no-slip.

ARBSeth · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:14 pm

You want the long answer or the short?

Long is, no, it doesn't with that thing. It was a good idea, but a drop in locker with that many moving parts just wasn't practical in application. RRP won't sell em anymore, they break. A lot.... the syncro ring just doesn't do it's job very well, Syn oil or no... if you're having issues, replace the springs, and keep a spare set handy.

Short: It's a piece of crap...if it's still under warranty, get rid of it and upgrade before it breaks something expensive....sorry man. Wish I could tell you something different. Keep fresh springs in it, and that will help. They're cheap, so it could be worse.

Call me if you need some good advice...

425-264-1391 ask for Seth

lilmatty · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:48 pm

David: I've got ARB in the rear and find its about all I've need to get me through some nasty stuff.

skrracing · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 5:51 pm

The ARB is by far the best way, and the best on the market today. You can turn it off on snow and ice unlike many other lockers...but when you want it locked...it is locked for dang sure... Hope that helps. later...Clint

USAFCOP · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 8:20 pm

I have the ARBs front and rear david. You can ask Joel and Pete at how well they work...

As Pete said, I rarely use the front, but sometimes it is needed in low traction situations. As for the Diff and CVs not able to handle it, that is BS. ARB would not sell it if it broke more than it worked (I think) The only difference with mine versus others I have heard of breaking with ARBs, is the location of the airline hole. Mine is not drilled where ARB says to, The guy that installed mine, looked at it and noticed that it was in a structurally unsound location for the aluminum casing. I am pretty sure he talked to ARB about it, but not certain.

Long and short, The front is a good helper to pull you up and over, but you need to have the rear pushing first. Also you need to be carefull with a rear locker only because if you push too hard and say the obstacle is taller than the breakover point of your front tire, you are looking for trouble. Long and short this is your call. I like having both front and rear locked, but if I had to only do one, I think I would have done the rear first/only.

At first ARB was a PIA, but the product has been great, more than I wanted save an air leak in one of my servos/regulator on the pump, and the pump being weak.(don't do the air up kit, not worth the money pump is way too slow)

So David, I should still have all of the paperwork and info from mine, if you want to see just let me know and I will find it, also, it should be fixed now, but I know what to look at to make sure you get the right one for the rear (2 different ARBs for the rear 8.25, but they did not change the part number, serial number is all that will tell you that you have the right one)

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 8:51 pm

Lots of good info....not just for me, but for a lot of members on here.

Thanks all for the great input.

Now, who needs personal training sessions for $800 so I can get an ARB?

:lol:

skrracing · **Posted:** Wed Sep 28, 2005 9:54 pm

OK guys, here is just another great thing about this site. Seth works for ARB and they are on our site posting and responding to all of us. There are a lot of sites that even block vendors from posting to their site.

I saw that all the guys in the So-Cal area...PLEASE make it a point to stop by the ARB booth at the Off Road Expo and say hello and thank the guys for working on products for the KJ.

Believe me this will go a long way in the future for any new products that ARB make think about.

I was hoping to go to the Expo on Sat...You guys want to make that a plan and we will all drop by the ARB booth?

If you plan to go another day or just want to head out on your own...I ask that you PLEASE still stop by and say hello. Introduce your self and jlet them know they are doing a great job.

Seth... Thanks for taking the time to drop in and check post, respond and I just want to say you are very welcome here. later...Clint

ARB question

Who is online