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 Post subject: Frankenlift Install (Completed)
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 9:22 am 
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I will be installing my Frankenlift on Friday. I am looking for any last minute advice before my friends and I give it a try. Anything I should look out for? I know the main issues people have had are with the front. I have seen recomendations to remove the lower control arm in the front to help with this. I think it has been mentioned to mark the placements of the bolts for this. Any other recommendations?

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Last edited by nails023 on Sat Oct 01, 2005 8:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 1:06 pm 
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I do not have the frankenlift, I've got the OME HD. They shoud be close enough. Do not take the lower control arm off, you don't need to. Look under the Texas part on this forum- is under thanks again KJTX. Ther's a small wrie up on the lift we did together. On mine we had to take the battery out, just take the shelf that it sits on and move it to the side after you unbolt it. That will get you to the top of the strut nuts. Take the airbox out to get to the other strut nuts. Take your calipers off and wire them out of the way. On my jeep I did not have to take the rotors off, they will drop down with the lower control arm. Take the swaybar a-loose from the lower control arms. Loosen the nuts on the upper ball joints quite a bit, but leave them attatched a few threads. Take a shop hammer and hit the upper balljoint pretty good to get it loose. Then take out the clevis. Go ahead and take the nuts off the ball joints completely, but old the lower control arm and let it down easy. Just let it down far enough to get the strut out, you don'twon't anything pulling on your axels too much. Remove the nuts off the top of the struts and pull them out. I think you can figure out how to put it back toether. Oh, your wheels will be towed in with the new lift. Loosen the jam nuts on the tie rods and turn the tie rods 1 full turn out, then tighten the jam nuts back down. Of course you'll have to get it professionally lined up but this will get you close enuff to start with. Sorry this is o choppy, but I'm in a hurry to iNstall my C.B. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 2:31 pm 
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Some people DO NEED TO TAKE THE LOWER OFF. I did and it was much easier that way. There was no way that sucker was going to go in any other way. It works for some people, but I'd guess it is KJ specific. The same thing had to be done with another local KJ here.

You're cramming a whole bunch more in there than with the OME lift (ie. additinal spacers).


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 3:17 pm 
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Thanks I appreciate any helpful insight I can get.

I can hardly wait to get this thing put on.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:07 pm 
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Skyjump136 wrote:
Some people DO NEED TO TAKE THE LOWER OFF. I did and it was much easier that way. There was no way that sucker was going to go in any other way. It works for some people, but I'd guess it is KJ specific. The same thing had to be done with another local KJ here.

You're cramming a whole bunch more in there than with the OME lift (ie. additinal spacers).




How much more? What's the overall length of the frankenlift strut, because I had plenty of room left over when I installed mine. I did'nt have to take the lower off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:39 pm 
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It has an additional 1.5" spacer plus the daystar top plate.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2005 6:59 pm 
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Edwin wrote:
Skyjump136 wrote:
Some people DO NEED TO TAKE THE LOWER OFF. I did and it was much easier that way. There was no way that sucker was going to go in any other way. It works for some people, but I'd guess it is KJ specific. The same thing had to be done with another local KJ here.

You're cramming a whole bunch more in there than with the OME lift (ie. additinal spacers).




How much more? What's the overall length of the frankenlift strut, because I had plenty of room left over when I installed mine. I did'nt have to take the lower off.


The daystar top plate allows the strut to extent further. This is done to increase wheel droop and reduce some of the spring pre-load. It increase the lenght of the strut assmebly. Does anyone know how much further the top plate allows the strut to extent further than stock?


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 Post subject: Lower control arm
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2005 12:36 am 
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I suggest you drop the lower control arm (a-frame). It allows you get the clevis around the part where it goes around the strut assembly and then just connect the assembly to the strut tower. We then raised the lower control arm to the clevis mount. I'm no master at IFS so if you need clarification I can try to elaborate better. I had to do what Skyjump did, and it didn't make sense before the install, but when we got to it it became obvious.

BTW Check out my 2003 Limited now that it's been Frankenlifted at my cardomain.com page (in my signature). Congrats on purchasing the Frankenlift, it rocks!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2005 7:46 am 
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I just recently installed a Frankenlift on my Liberty and wrote down the steps I followed. If you would like a copy before you start e-mail me at wasatch15@aol.com and let me know.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2005 7:58 am 
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We are going to do the install tomorrow. It seems the majority of Frankenlift owners have recommended dropping the lower control arm. So I think that is what we will do. Thanks again for all of you that have provided inputs. That is why this site is so great. Because off all the people willing to offer help to those less experienced than them.

I will be hopefully be posting pics over the weekend.

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Frankenlift,MOABS,Mopar Roof Basket, Pet Partition, Neoprene seat covers,Flowmaster Deltaflow 50,PIAA 580 series Fogs, Rusty's Gas Tank skid, Rock Lizard Skink Sliders (Soon to be installed diff cover and Monitor Front Bumper)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2056418


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2005 12:19 pm 
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Wasatch15 wrote:
I just recently installed a Frankenlift on my Liberty and wrote down the steps I followed. If you would like a copy before you start e-mail me at wasatch15@aol.com and let me know.


I just sent you an email. Thanks for the information.

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Frankenlift,MOABS,Mopar Roof Basket, Pet Partition, Neoprene seat covers,Flowmaster Deltaflow 50,PIAA 580 series Fogs, Rusty's Gas Tank skid, Rock Lizard Skink Sliders (Soon to be installed diff cover and Monitor Front Bumper)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2056418


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2005 11:42 pm 
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wasatch15 - sent a request to you as well. I'm getting a Frankenlift in just a few days and would love all the advice I can get!

s~


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2005 11:53 pm 
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So would adding the daystar top plate to any of the other lifts, like Rusty's for example, allow more droop? Also, does it help with avoiding ball joint contact?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 12:45 am 
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Adding more droop would actually bring the a-arm closer to the spring and thus more contact would be the result.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 7:17 am 
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Yes adding the top plate will allow more droop and it will droop itself right into the spring, thus causing the upper control arm and possibly the ball joint to hit the spring. Then you will need to use lower bumpstop to prevent this from happening.

One thing you could do for free is a clevis lift in the front. That will add a little more droop and raise the front up a little also.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 9:30 am 
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When I installed the Frankenlift on my Liberty, I tried for a complete day to get the drivers side installed without removing the lower control arm alignment bolts. (I had three full days before I needed my Jeep). I was so frustrated I finally asked the great people of this forum for some help. I'm a really careful person when it comes to my vehicles. I really wanted to do the install without dropping the lowers. I had EVERYTHING removed on the drivers side save the upper and lower control arms. Finally, I marked the alignment bolt settings and removed the lower control arm. Like magic, things started to go together.
Once I figured out a procedure, I was able to install the passenger side in about 2.5 hours. I would recommend this lift to anyone. Since the install, alignment, and a talk with Quinn (thanks guy, you're great), I have no problems and love the look, ride, and feel of my Liberty.
Just be patient and work carefully (safely) when installing this lift and you will have no problems, just a few challenges during the front install. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:03 am 
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For those that have removed the lower control arm, do you think using a spring compressor would have allowed you to get the strut assembly in without removing the lower control arm?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 10:54 am 
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Wasatch15 - thanks for the documentation. Things like this is what sets this board apart from the others I've visited.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 11:05 am 
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02limited wrote:
For those that have removed the lower control arm, do you think using a spring compressor would have allowed you to get the strut assembly in without removing the lower control arm?


I tried that...no help. Maybe a different compressor would have worked, but why spend the money when dropping the lower is so easy. Literally, it is two bolts.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2005 1:06 pm 
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Skyjump136 wrote:
I tried that...no help. Maybe a different compressor would have worked, but why spend the money when dropping the lower is so easy. Literally, it is two bolts.


Thanks Skyjump136. I wouldn't be buying a spring compressor either, my friends have all the tools I will ever need... :D

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