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 Post subject: I need help changing axle fluids
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:40 pm 
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Okay I won't lie, I was a 68B mechanic in the Army but am having trouble changing the axle fluid on my CRD. As far as the rear goes, I have the Chrysler 8.25 with the standard Dana 30a up front. What tools to I need to change the fluids out? Also, do I need to take the rear axle cover off to drain the fluid? I cannot seem to find a drain plug...

I feel like a real dunce after having done these things daily on Humvees and 5-Tons for three years in the Army :oops:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:53 pm 
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I'm assuming you mean the rear differential. You'll need to buy a new cover gasket, and two quarts of 75-90 (assuming it's the same lube that's used in the gasser). Take the 10 bolts off, scrape off the residue from the old gasket on both the cover and the differential, wipe out all the metal that is stuck to the magnet on the inside bottom of the differential, put the cover back on, and put the lube in :)

Edit: You may also want to apply some RTV to both sides of the gasket...

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:56 pm 
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There are a couple of good articles in the tech section.

Front has a drain, Rear does not, you have to pull the cover or pump it out.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 1:56 pm 
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front has a drain plug in it so drain and fill

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 2:48 pm 
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No need for a gasket for the rear axle(does not come with one from the factory),just use some good RTV.I've never used a gasket and never had a leak.The front diff use's a 3/8" ratchet to remove the fill plug(square hole),and the drain plug is 8mm allen head if I remember right.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 4:03 pm 
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Consider using 75W140 if you tow or wheel hard and now would be a good time to switch to full synthetic gear lubes. They will last much longer and perform much better.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:51 pm 
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You might also consider just pulling both covers.Remember that diffs.dont have filtering devices,so all of that muck and metal usually gats trapped in the nooks and crannys,and wont leave that magnet until you force it to.Add a couple of cans of carb cleaner to you list and give em' a good flushin'.After all thats why your changing the fluid...to get em' clean. :wink: :)

Ron

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:05 pm 
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Or just pump it out, and refill, if you don't need to inspect it and be drinking beer again in 5 minutes.

All that crap about metal particles...Bunk...I drove 700 miles with a fragmented locker with no damage. A darn pound of itlle bitty shavings ain't gonna hurt nothin.

That heavy stuff stays at the bottom. most of your normal wear and tear shavings are on the first change.

I've pulled covers on prestine rear axles that were 50 years old, full of sheIte, and never had the lube changed. Cleaned them up and installed new seals, they are still kickin.

Axles ain't that darn fragile :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

Since you live up Norte, I'd suggest a synthetic 75W-90 in winter, 75w-140 in summer towing or not.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:23 pm 
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Quote:
Axles ain't that darn fragile
But the bearings are.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:30 pm 
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the1jferg wrote:
Or just pump it out, and refill, if you don't need to inspect it and be drinking beer again in 5 minutes.

All that crap about metal particles...Bunk...I drove 700 miles with a fragmented locker with no damage. A darn pound of itlle bitty shavings ain't gonna hurt nothin.

That heavy stuff stays at the bottom. most of your normal wear and tear shavings are on the first change.

I've pulled covers on prestine rear axles that were 50 years old, full of sheIte, and never had the lube changed. Cleaned them up and installed new seals, they are still kickin.

Axles ain't that darn fragile :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

Since you live up Norte, I'd suggest a synthetic 75W-90 in winter, 75w-140 in summer towing or not.


Maybe thats why I don't drink beer........I don't have time. :wink: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 6:43 pm 
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Ron, I always wondered why some people had more time to drink beer than I did now I know! :wink:

tom

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 11:44 pm 
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When I say axle, I mean everything in the housing. If his stuff breaks because of a few metal shavings, I'll buy him a new one.

I only drink while I'm driving and shooting road signs.

I bet a six pack that I could give him a pound of shavings and he would use the vehicle up well before it caused any drive train failure. :idea:

Heck, at a matter of FACT... changing the fluid will cause axle seal failure long before far-N matter would. As does flushing a tranny of its fluids.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:01 am 
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the1jferg wrote:
When I say axle, I mean everything in the housing. If his stuff breaks because of a few metal shavings, I'll buy him a new one.

I only drink while I'm driving and shooting road signs.

I bet a six pack that I could give him a pound of shavings and he would use the vehicle up well before it caused any drive train failure. :idea:

Heck, at a matter of FACT... changing the fluid will cause axle seal failure long before far-N matter would. As does flushing a tranny of its fluids.


:? Just when I think I have heard it all from you.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:04 am 
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Whats wrong? :lol: :lol:

"But the bearings are." That Super-Fly dude said.

Heck, on that note, I've seen bearings wear halfway thru an axle after almost 2 million miles and still not cause a failure. :shock: :shock:

Hero, You should put on rubber gloves, open a beer, get the right size wrench, pull the cover, drain, clean it out with brake cleaner, wipe out the crevis where it won't drain, clean the seal area, RTV, put back on and fill with 75w-140 Aimsoil from JJ. :wink:

(eye protection when spraying the cleaner)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 7:09 am 
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On my list of things to do when I travel the Western side of the US in my KJ trail trip (gotta win that lottery) is gonna be a trip to Texas to meet the 1jferg. Dude you make me laugh out loud sometimes with your posts... :lol: 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:00 am 
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I might be up your way first as an old "Black OP's" friend resides outside of Minersville, Pennsylvania. I'm planning on a visit.

I'll let you know. :)


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:21 pm 
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I'm just looking to do things as simple as possible, considering the fact that Chrysler has the design flaw on the 8.25 of not even having a drainplug I was a bit disenfranchised...

I was to the point of questioning my intelligence because I couldn't find the drainplug! :shock:

:mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 12:27 pm 
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Hero wrote:
I'm just looking to do things as simple as possible, considering the fact that Chrysler has the design flaw on the 8.25 of not even having a drainplug I was a bit disenfranchised...

I was to the point of questioning my intelligence because I couldn't find the drainplug! :shock:

:mrgreen:


Welcome to the world of saving money on the vehicle to make money later when the consumer needs service. I purchased a rear diff cover from Rock Lizzard which came with a plug. When he gets his new supplier in line you can get one of them to make things easier...plus they are beefier so they can bounce a lil more off the rocks... :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:02 pm 
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Hero wrote:
I'm just looking to do things as simple as possible, considering the fact that Chrysler has the design flaw on the 8.25 of not even having a drainplug I was a bit disenfranchised...

I was to the point of questioning my intelligence because I couldn't find the drainplug! :shock:

:mrgreen:
95% of all diffs do not have a drain plug,it's not a design flaw.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:14 pm 
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63series and you need advise on how to change diff fluid? J/K it's always good to ask when in doubt. hoorah!

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