My friend and I installed my lift last night and I have some observations/concerns:

I had the tire shop put a 235/85R16 tire on my spare so I can use it as a model to check clearances and see where I need to cut. I have an 06, could not find a rear pinch weld I have heard mentioned and at full compression there was clearance all around. It came withing a finger of the rear shock. I had to do no trimming in the rear. The stock bumpstops were left in because they were bigger than the FL II.

Anyone have a problem with the rear OEM bumpstops staying in?

I did have to hammer down the front pinchweld and trim the fender liner and some of the airdam of the bumper. The washer bottle was partially exposed, but was out of the way and didn't seem to be a problem. I shot the exposed part with hard undercoat and you would never know it's there.

Maybe the placement of the bottle in an 06 CRD is more favorable than others?

Now here is my concern. Driving home last night I drove over a speed bump and there was a pretty significant clunk. I backed up and went over it one tire at a time and no clunk. I drew the conclusion that the sway bar was loose. I looked underneath and saw that the swaybar hits the lower control arm. Does anyone else find that the two are very close in your lifted KJ's?





Anyone know a solution to the problem? I am getting significant clunking and it's only a speed bump!

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

I have had clunking since the JKS discos-- pre lift. It only clunked back then when one side hit the obstacle and not when both went over at the same time (I figure it is because the bar is not on real tight with the disco's--- just a pin holding it on). Since I have lifted it I still have clunking... but not any more than before and I have not noticed it being any different (happening when both go over).

Yes the bar and the control arm are very close on mine as well. I never gave it a second thought, as I figure the sway bar has to go up if the rest of the LCA that it attaches to is going up-- so I figured it was not an issue. Looking at the bar and the arm, I see a very small shiny spot where the arm and the LCA would meet. So I suppose it is making contact (it is small-- width of a pen mark and 1/2 inch long). There is no groove or indentation, just a spot. I am not sure if this occured when I discoed and forgot to attach the lanyard, however (lots of clunking then).

I will keep an eye on the future clunking this weekend when I drive it again.

anyone have detailed steps about taking off the sway bar?
Pablo have any pics of your JKS quick discos.. where did ya get them?
~thanks!

grab your 18mm socket and remove 6 bolts. 4 mounting bolts on the bar and the lower link bolt on each lower control arm and fish it out of there. 5 minute job

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

holy hi jack Batman!

_________________
2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

Take off the sway bar and see if the "klunk" goes away...If it does, then you might be able to grind a small amount off ...or... find a way to relocte the sway bar a bit higher...a longer sway bar link or adjustable one.

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph