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 Post subject: Spare tire removal to tow trailer?
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 8:47 pm 
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Jeep brothers and sisters,

Is it true you have to remove the spare tire to be able to pull a camping trailer behind a 2005 Liberty CRD 4x4 using OEM hitch recivers?

Wow? I was already looking for more storage space and if I have to put my spare in my Libby when I pull my trailer that will suck. I'm surprised I have not heard this complaint yet, if true. What do we know? Any trailer pullers run into this problem with the spare and found a solution???

Hopefully, I'm wrong.

Hoover

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 9:41 pm 
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William -

As posted in the CRD section, although this topic is probably more "general discussion" related:

Man... I nearly HATE to give you this answer, but....

"It depends"

Of the three trailers that I have towed w/ my CRD, I have had to remove the spare for ONE of them (and once coupled, put it right back on). This trailer was a 18" flat bed, tilt bed car carrier. The configuration of the tongue was such that there was a clasp that had to stick up 'til it was lowered onto the ball, then it could be flipped down. Unfortunately, this clasp was nearly 3" high when in the "up" position, causing the need to remove the spare, as there was no way to have the tongue go over the ball and still have enough room between the ball and the tire. Sucked. This was w/ a straight ball mount (no drop).

Another trailer that I had towed had a "bulldog"(?) tongue. It tightened to the ball in a different manner, and there was nothing directly above the coupler, allowing it to drop onto the ball w/ no problems.

Finally, my little utility trailer is "so low" that I have to have a 3" drop ball mount, so it has no problems w/ tire clearance.

Unfortunately, you're going to have to measure the trailer's level toungue height to determine what ball mount will work properly (what drop), and you're going to be stuck w/ whatever coupler configuration is on the trailer. This will determine whether or not you've got to pull the spare.

But... pulling the spare is a minute job tops. 30 seconds off... hook up or drop off trailer... 30 seconds on. It really wasn't "that big" a deal to do.

- Jeff

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:20 pm 
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yeah... it will depend on the type of hitch. I just got done hauling a uhaul and didn't have to wory about it at all...

There is a trick for this:
If you pull the pin out and slide your ball out of the reciever an inch or two, you can connect and secure the trailer and then slide the ball portion back into the reciever and put the pin back in.... works great, fast, and no need for tools.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2005 11:27 pm 
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You have to be really careful w/ that "trick". If the trailer tongue is light enough that you can lift it by yourself (not needing the tongue jack), and you're on perfectly level terrain, you might have half a chance of doing that.

In my experience, I've never been able to get the ball mount to slide back into the receiver smoothly, then after jacking up/down the trailer tongue in ever decreasing increments, getting in and out of the truck to move it backwards (to allow the ball mount to slide into the receiver), all while watching the trailer hike up b/c the ball mount DIDN'T slide in... readjusting height... then when I finally get the ball mount in the receiver... trying to line up the lock pin hole?? More in/out of the truck back/forth.. UGH!!

Man... forget that noise. For me, one "X" lug wrench, three lug nuts, and thirty seconds later and the spare's off.

But hey, if that way works for you.... that's great! At least you don't have to worry about whether the spare cover is lined up properly when you put it back on. ;)

- Jeff

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 Post subject: towing
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 10:43 am 
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Or simply get a reciever extension. You can find them almost anywhere,
KJKev

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 Post subject: easy solution..
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 11:01 am 
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I use 1' rise x 14'' that clears the spare. $19.95 from Etrailer.com. If you end up needing a 2" drop you may not need a bar that long because you have more clearence. I have heard of someone who moved the spare up but not sure of the details.

If you tow much you end up with a collection of draw bars to keep the trailers level no 2 trailers are exactly the same.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 2:21 pm 
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I just open the door enough to latch my trailer and after it is on the ball close the door.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 3:10 pm 
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Y'all are da' bomb. Great suggestions. I like the door opening strategy better than the pin pulling trick. Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions. I have ordered a straight extension for my camper but I will remember these tips too.

Free our KJ's,

Hoover

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 02, 2005 7:33 pm 
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Something no one mentioned. There are various types of ball locks (thing on the end of the tongue that actually latches to the ball - don't know the technical term - coupler?) available. If the one on your trailer is such that it interferes and u are going to use it regularly, look into replacing the actual trailer tongue with one that has a coupler that will work with the spare tire on. Try looking for one called a "Hammer-Blow" type. It actually latches to the ball from the side not the top. It's kinda spring loaded.

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 Post subject: trailer hookup
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 6:10 am 
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I have a 10 inch extension that I keep the ball hooked onto,, and swap it out with the jeep logo cap,, or the WARN shackle. I've never had to remove the tire,, that's way too much work.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:10 am 
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Yeah I just got a longer ball mount (14") and it clears the spare fine without having to do any "tricks" at all. And you don't lower your towing capacity that way. That's the way to go. www.ontheball.com

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 4:51 pm 
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When I posted I did not think of a trailer that has the landing leg on it. I guess in that case you would have to remove the tire.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 1:05 am 
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Don't forget that when using an extension you lower the amount of tounge weight that your vehicle can handle, and reduce the total trailer weight it can handle as well. Why? Well the extension is acting as a lever and will increase the amount of force that the trailer puts on the mounts of your hitch and the force it puts on your suspension, as well as increasing the tendency of the trailer to push the vehicle side to side when it sways.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 5:13 pm 
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I have a 28ft boat that weights 3,500 pounds. I use the extension never had an issue. Don't forget to buy two extra feet of chain when using an extension.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:54 pm 
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I had that problem the first time I went to tow our camper with it till I realized that another receiver I had was just a few inches longer and worked great!!!

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