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Torn CV Boot *fixed*, advice *and pics* included here...
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=23995		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  GregScuba [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 2:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Torn CV Boot *fixed*, advice *and pics* included here...
While replacing front struts on my 2.5" Daystar-lifted CRD, I accidentally punctured the inner CV boot on the drivers side, and now it's flinging all the grease everywhere.

Question is, when I get a replacement boot from the dealer, how do I go about breaking the joint apart to get the new boot on?

A friend told me to put the axle in a vise, and then hit the joint out with a 4lb sledge hammer to release the C-clip. Will this method work on our Jeeps?
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 3:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
The cv joint will just pull out of the diff. From what Ive read youve got to pry it out but it just pops out.

If you have the bands and the tool to put the bands on, it shouldnt be a very bad job at all.

Idk if you need to replace the clip or the bearing in the diff or not when you pop the cv out. Hopefully someone else will chime in.
Author:  GilaMonster [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 4:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sorry to hear about the boot. I'm not sure if you realize, but you will have to take the clevis off to get the inner cv off the vehicle.
Man, I dread doing that with my CRD driver side cv and the frankenlift if it ever happens.

Good luck.
Author:  Pablo [ Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
GilaMonster wrote:
Sorry to hear about the boot. I'm not sure if you realize, but you will have to take the clevis off to get the inner cv off the vehicle.
Man, I dread doing that with my CRD driver side cv and the frankenlift if it ever happens.

Good luck.


It is a bear with lots of lift (I have the 2.5 inch Frankenlift with the spacer and OME 500 pound strut). My mechanic tore one new CV boot just trying to get it put back on the lifted Jeep. He was not impressed with the replacement Mopar boots. The boots are hard cheap plastic, they have no flex, and they stick up right where the strut can pinch them against the axle housing and tear them. I ditched the OME's and went with the EMPI neoprene boots I got from JE Reel. Much better-- they went on easier, as they were not quite as tall and more flexible. They did not tear during the install.

I am thinking about buying extra split boots (also EMPI from JE Reel) as there is no way I want to do this on a trail if the boot rips.
Author:  GregScuba [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Another question I just thought of..... will I need to open up my pumpkin and release a C-clip to get the axle out, or can I just pop it out and back in without opening the pumpkin?

At this point, I think I might just get a split boot and throw it on there. Is that a possible permanent solution, or is it purely temporary?
Author:  Eddo [ Mon Sep 03, 2007 6:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
GregScuba wrote:
Another question I just thought of..... will I need to open up my pumpkin and release a C-clip to get the axle out, or can I just pop it out and back in without opening the pumpkin?

At this point, I think I might just get a split boot and throw it on there. Is that a possible permanent solution, or is it purely temporary?


The half shaft just slides in an out. It might take a little pry, but it comes out pretty darn easy. No need to open the diff. There is no c-clip on the front, because it is not need.
Author:  GregScuba [ Tue Sep 04, 2007 3:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
Eddo wrote:
The half shaft just slides in an out. It might take a little pry, but it comes out pretty darn easy. No need to open the diff. There is no c-clip on the front, because it is not need.


Cool, that's nice to know. I just ordered a new boot at the dealer today, $29, and it will be here next week. I think I'm going to coat the new boot with silicone grease during the install and maybe even throw a shop cloth over it. If possible, I will put it between the clevis but not pop it into the diff untill after reinstalling the strut assembly, that way it won't have the clearance issue during the reinstall of the strut.
Author:  GregScuba [ Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:19 am ]
Post subject: 
Well, the Mpoar replacement boot tore as well, even with a rag acting as a buffer. I guess I'm going to have to go the JE-Reel route and grind the lower strut plate down a little bit.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Tue Sep 11, 2007 8:49 am ]
Post subject: 
what is it tearing on? Is it hitting the clevis fork when you put it all back together?
Author:  GregScuba [ Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
When I am put the strut assembly back in and was getting the clevis bolted back up with the LCA, the lower strut plate (spring perch) pushed into the first pleat on the boot and punctured it.

I think I am going to have to grind down the perch a bit so it doesn't bite into the next boot when I put it in. The bottom spring perch that comes with the OME's seems to be bigger than the one built into the Mopar strut. I didn't have this trouble when I had the Mopar struts.

This next time I think I am going to go with the JE Reel CV boot product, as people here report it to be more durable.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Tue Sep 11, 2007 7:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Do you have a clevis lift? The spring perch should not be hitting the CV boot with the lift you have.
Author:  GregScuba [ Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:09 am ]
Post subject: 
It doesn't hit when everything is assembled. It's just when your in the process of putting it together it hits. This is the reason they changed the CRD Frankenlift recently, was the problem with tearing the boots during assembly.
Author:  GilaMonster [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:55 am ]
Post subject: 
GregScuba wrote:
It doesn't hit when everything is assembled. It's just when your in the process of putting it together it hits. This is the reason they changed the CRD Frankenlift recently, was the problem with tearing the boots during assembly.


I had this problem when installing my Frankenlift, it kept contactin the inner CV boot on the driver side. I eventually un bolted the lower control arm while supporting it with a floor jack so that I could bolt on the shock at both points (upper to body and lower at clevis). Then I jacked the lower control arm up while using ratcheting tie-down straps to move it into position to bolt it back on the vehilce.
Major pain when done by oneself, but that is how I got around the install issue and not tearing the cv boot. Could work in your situation too.

I'd be interested in how the split boot works out. I think it is worth a try due to the intense labor to put a standard boot on. I have no idea of the quality, but I've used them on hondas and vw rabits with success. The ones that screwed together worked, but the ones that glued together never did because they always failed at the glue seam.

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Author:  tjkj2002 [ Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:07 am ]
Post subject: 
The big reason the CRD's are having this problem is the front diff is mounted differently then the gasser,the drivers CV shaft is shorter,thus going to have contact when installing.
Author:  GregScuba [ Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Well, I finally got it fixed with the EMPI neoprene boot from JE Reel and some creativity.

I left the bigger band off the boot and puled it down the shaft and out of the way while I put the strut assembly back into place on the vehicle and UCA back into the knuckle.

To further protect the boot from tearing and from dirt getting inside the joint, I put a pile of rags about and inch thick over the joint while I worked.

Also, as an even further precautionary measure, I rounded and smoothed the edge of the OME strut's lower spring perch on the grinder / wire wheel while I had it out of the vehicle.

Hope this helps others in the future.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Tue Sep 25, 2007 11:08 am ]
Post subject: 
Glad you got it figured out. :)

Got any pics of that boot? I wouldnt mind seeing what they look like.
Author:  GregScuba [ Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:54 am ]
Post subject: 
Jeepjeepster wrote:
Glad you got it figured out. :)

Got any pics of that boot? I wouldnt mind seeing what they look like.


Ask and you shall receive. Made by EMPI, neoprene construction. Seems to be some pretty good stuff.

Image

Image

Image
Author:  bgskyman [ Wed Jul 23, 2014 7:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Torn CV Boot *fixed*, advice *and pics* included here...
Can you explain how you got the axle out of the CV to replace the boot? I'm doing an inner on the passenger side and another post mention a clip is holding the axle in?
Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Torn CV Boot *fixed*, advice *and pics* included here...
There's a inner axle shaft and a çv on the pass side the cv uses splines to grip the shaft and there is a split ring clip that helps retain the inner axle to the diff if you arent removing the inner shaft either snatch the cv off of it or use a pry bar to separate them if the inner axle comes out with the cv its ok clean the seal and stick a rag in to keep debris out you can separate them off th e vehicle too

It's not a clip as in one you'd have to physically engage to separate, it's more of an inner compression tension clip to keep things from drifting to far apart

When i replaced my pass side cv last the inner shaft was compounded into the cv and wouldn't separate no matter what i did, this is usually a sign the splines are failing
Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Torn CV Boot *fixed*, advice *and pics* included here...
ie. I had to build a new work bench after trying to separate them, ripped my vice right off and broke a sledge hammer

So when i turned in my cv cores i just handed them the whole dang thing and told them it was their problem

Luckily i had a brand new inner already ready to go in via toms helpful inner axle information
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