hockey pucks for rear bump stops?

kayadog · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:29 am

Does this really work?

Will I lose much travel? I have a stock KJ with 245/70r16 on 16x8 rims that hit the rear flares going over large bumps and I've already trimmed as much as I can and don't want a lift.

Do I need to take the springs off or just squeeze them in?

They go on the bottom, right?

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:59 am

to do it right you need to take the springs out and drill a hole to fasten them in there, taking the springs out is a 10/15 minute job at most. Drill a hole through the puck and also through the bottom plate and bolt them in. As far as loosing travel you lost that when you went to the size rims you went to on a stock suspension so this will help keep the tires out of the fender. This is about all you can do without a lift, 7 inch wheels would give you no problems, maybe sell the wheels and get 7 inchers ???

kayadog · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:14 am

I'm bummed that they don't fit. Everything I saw on-line said they would fit. The should be the same size as Moabs. I think the backspacing on the Cragars is less than they list on tyhe specs.

These are the only rims I could afford ($215 delivered for 4) to replace my rusty stock ones. The Cragar 16x7's have 4" Backspace, which I think is too little.

So far the rubbing is only annoying and not damaging anything. When I go off road I air doen to 18psi, so no rubbing.

If it gets worse or starts to damage the tires or flares I am going to try the bumpstops. Thanks for the instructions.

Do I need a spring comprssor to remove the springs?

Johnboy · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:49 am

No spring compressor. look up some tech articles for complete instructions and photos...but:

remove tire
loosen sway bar bolts (might not need to with stock length springs)
remove shock ( or at least diso one end)
have fat friend stand on brake assembly. spring will nearly fall out then.
drill hole in lower spring perch and puck.
put spring back in, slip puck in and bolt down.
reverse dissassembly process...

very easy once you get your hands dirty...

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:23 pm

also if no fat friends around :wink:

use your jack between the frame and the rotor/disc brake give it enough pressure to spread it apart and you can pop the spring out easy, dont even have to disconnect the sway bar, thats how I even do it when doing a regular lift.

Just ask we can get you through it pretty easy

tom

LostEddie · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:06 pm

What size and length bolt (for single puck) do you guys find works best?

Does the bolt head need to be countersunk in the Puck so the bump stop will not hit the bolt head?

If I am installing a 2 or 2.5 inch lift, how many pucks should I use (if any)?

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:17 pm

The pucks are about an inch thick I think so if you go two/ two and a half inches of lift need two pucks.... actually you can go to Rock Lizards site he has or had a great write up on how to do this. But for say two pucks you would need like a 2 1/2 bolt with a large washer on top would not have to counter sink it. maybe like a 3/8 bolt should hold it in place good.

LostEddie · **Posted:** Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:34 pm

Thanks – I knew I had seen a write-up but couldn’t find it!

hockey pucks for rear bump stops?

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