Can't keep front brakes on my KJ

TallNorton · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:29 pm

I am completely frustrated with my KJ's front brakes.

Every time that I take the Liberty to my mountain land I end up having to either replace the front discs or having them machined.

The mechanic says that it is because of 4 wheeling and riding offroad.

The only 4 wheel drive that I use going up the road is to keep the gravels from spinning on a particularly steep section (gravel is expensive) and the road is in excellent condition as far as ruts and bumps go.

I say BS on the mechanic's assertion that it is the 4wd causing it and "off roading" it, but the circumstances sure seem to fit the diagnosis.

Thoughts?

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:49 pm

I'm not sure what's failing? - you say replace or machine rotors - are the being warped? grooved? how many miles?

I'm at 43,000 and still on factory pads - and that includes 3 trips to Colorado and 2 to Moab & that includes a lot of 4 wheel drive.

TallNorton · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:58 pm

It started because I was getting severe vibration being transmitted to the steering wheel when applying the brakes.

The mechanic said the rotors were warped and he machined them free of charge since he had just put front brakes on it less then 5000 miles ago.

After he machined the rotors it was great....no vibriation whatsoever. I took the vehicle to the land last weekend and the vibration is returning.

The KJ has about 55k miles on it.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:20 pm

Warping tends to be overheating or overmachining

I haven't measured the Jeep but I've heard of new vehicles coming with the rotors close to the minumum spec'ed thickness - from the factory - i.e. you don't have any room to machine them the 1st time. If you get them too thin - they'll warp easier.

The main cause of warping is overheating - riding the brakes on a long downhill or towing a trailer that doesn't have brakes.

If you do have to use the brakes a lot - you should look at some of the vented disks

4WD by itself won't have any effect on the brakes - I do use brakes a lot while in 4WD - but I'm typically going 10-20 mph to start with so not a lot of energy to dissipate.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 2:40 pm

Try Napa rotors or the PowerSlot rotors(I have these and haven't warped them yet),try to stay away from turning rotors.Turning rotors leaves less materal to disapate heat,so they will heat up faster and take longer to cool.Get better pads from somewhere like Napa,ceramics work good with the PowerSlot rotors.

Lastly,when on step downgrades on gravel or dirt shift into 4-low to help keep your speed low and use your brakes less,downshifting into 1st or 2nd will really keep you going slow and keep your foot off that brake pedal.Compression braking is your friend and you aren't using any gas at the same time.

TallNorton · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:11 pm

Thanks guys.

The thing is that I do use low gear going down the hills and, in fact, can mmake it back to the paved road without riding the brakes at all if I pay attention.

I'll take the advice on the upgrades on the hardware and see how that works.

_UnLiMiTeD_ · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:56 pm

i was tols slotted rotters shorten pad life

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 4:25 pm

Your rotors can warp for a number of reasons but any more like tjkj said turning rotors is bad it will just prolong a short time in buying new ones. Its all how you drive as well, mine are at 88,000 and no vibration/ never been replaced fronts or back. :wink:

Lot of stop and go in town , riding the pedal and not knowing it etc. all causes the rotors to heat up and warp.
Using 4WD too much ...I like that one good excuse for a mechanic!

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 4:49 pm

_UnLiMiTeD_ wrote:

i was tols slotted rotters shorten pad life

For the el-cheapo one's you find in JC Whitney will.Slotted rotors like the PowerSlots have the slots camfered,no sharp edges.Good slotted rotors will actually extend pad life since they will vet the gasses better that the pads make when braking.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 5:19 pm

I had my rotors machined a tick around 15k and theyve been fine since. You could hardly tell where he had cut them down, it was just enough to knock the high points off. Ive been offroad many times, towed a boat a few times, and even had bigger tires on for a year and they are still fine.

brembos from tirerack.com should be good.

KY Liberty · **Joined:** Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:46 pm **Posts:** 1195

I've got a set of frozen powerslots up front. They completely changed the braking in the Libby. I've had them for a couple years and they still work great. Trying to stop with the stock brakes was scary.

Pote · **Posted:** Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:06 pm

just had my rears turned. they had and still do have plenty of metal. they removed just enough to get rid of some rust and pitting...lots of life left, the fronts are still factory mounted with no troubles and also are plenty thick.

Rush345 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 3:26 am

tommudd wrote:

Your rotors can warp for a number of reasons but any more like tjkj said turning rotors is bad it will just prolong a short time in buying new ones. Its all how you drive as well, mine are at 88,000 and no vibration/ never been replaced fronts or back. :wink:

Lot of stop and go in town , riding the pedal and not knowing it etc. all causes the rotors to heat up and warp.
Using 4WD too much ...I like that one good excuse for a mechanic!

OK, Now you have me thinking when I bought my Jeep used last year. One of the first things I did was go to a shop down the street who I had work on my Dakota. I was having him switch my new 89,000 Sport converting to synthetic. But anyway he found a plethera of problem one of which was warped rotors he trued them up and sent me on my way. Since then no problems. Should I be keeping a real close eye on my brakes. My previous Dakota ,it's brake reqired ever couple of years I could not just install pads the drivers side rotor had to be replaced with every brake job and nobody could solve the mistery

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 12:45 pm

Sounds like a hung caliper on the Dakota, or maybe frozen sliders. was one pad worn more than the other?

C co Crusader 2/127 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:01 pm

hey ky where did you get your rotors Cryoed? Im having trouble finding someone thats willing to cryo the size stuff i want done. Or better the type of stuff i want done. The guy i would normally use wont do it because he only does pistol and rifle barrels.

AZScout · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:54 pm

C co, I know that they sell them at tirerack.com I believe they are already frozen though.

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:59 pm

Now that i think about it...

Is your guy replacing the pads when he cuts or replaces your rotors? if not, he should be.

TallNorton · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 2:01 pm

ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:

Now that i think about it...

Is your guy replacing the pads when he cuts or replaces your rotors? if not, he should be.

Hmmm...I'll have to go back and look at the ticket.

Jeger · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 2:15 pm

I think I have seen this site mentioned..

http://www.frozenrotors.com/

Rush345 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 25, 2007 2:25 pm

ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:

Sounds like a hung caliper on the Dakota, or maybe frozen sliders. was one pad worn more than the other?

Never could get a good answer, and it was always drivers side front I even thinking that that was the case so I got a set of preloaded calipers and 2 year later take it in with the same problem. Addionally every other brake job required replacing both. After hearing about this problem I'm starting to wonder if it isn't a Mopar problem.

Can't keep front brakes on my KJ

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