Hey guys,

I want to get some more traction in my KJ. It is my daily driver, about 90% on road, and the girl does drive it from time to time. That being said, I was originally just going to go Detroit TrueTracks front and rear, but this Powertrax No-Slip locker caught my eye. Anybody have any expirence with one? Does it have better road manners than a Detroi like the company states? A rear locker would be nice, and it is cheaper then the truetrac for the 8.25 I can't afford the ARB's just FYI, but I know someone will suggest them. Advice???

No slip might have better road manners than Detroit locker but I don't think it will be better than Detroit truetrac. Im in the same decision making as you right now, its either no slip or truetrac. Im pretty sure that I will get TrueTrac sometime after Christmas, its supposed to have great on road manners and can hold its own off road. And I think i found one for $449 the other day. Oh you can save some money on the install if you get no slip because you can put it in yourself.

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05 Liberty 4x4, Atlantic Blue
Extended Breathers
3/4 Mopar Skids
OME Lift, 245/75/16 General Grabbers AT2, ProComp Extreme Alloys 7189
Mopar Tow Hooks

I might be starting a war here, but here is my nine cents. I have had full Detroit No-Spin in my larger pickups, pulling very heavy loads, with never a failure. I Currently have the True-Trac in my Liberty, been working great even though abused daily. The No-Slip lunchbox-locker I have had in my Dads Liberty, my Chevy 1500, my s-10, impala, have all failed under normal use. It is seems to be the syncros that get chewed up and spit out. Most recently, I had to put the open spider gears back in my Dad's liberty when the passenger side shaft would not drive at all with the no-slip.


While the quiter design of the no-slip may have better road manners, it has been my experience the syncros are not up to the task of long mileage.

Interestingly, I had the original Lock-Right in an older truck, and it was noisy, banged and clunked, but it went well over 200k with no failures.

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05 Liberty Rocky Mtn.
02 Renny...Traded for 2010 F150, 8200 GVWR, Plow prep, Max tow
1983 Husq. Model 61, modded
Husq 335 XPT, trail saw, modded

You saying Detroit TT has worse on road manners than No-Slip?

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05 Liberty 4x4, Atlantic Blue
Extended Breathers
3/4 Mopar Skids
OME Lift, 245/75/16 General Grabbers AT2, ProComp Extreme Alloys 7189
Mopar Tow Hooks

Sorry bout that....I was comparing the original Lock-Right to the No-Slip.

The True-Trac is seamless to drive with. It is not noticeable at all except under hard turn accelleration.

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05 Liberty Rocky Mtn.
02 Renny...Traded for 2010 F150, 8200 GVWR, Plow prep, Max tow
1983 Husq. Model 61, modded
Husq 335 XPT, trail saw, modded

I believe he's referring to the Full Detroit No-Spin unit or the Lock Right , not the True Trac.

Currious to know at what milage the syncros went south
I've had mine in for 3 yrs. now, but with only 17,000 miles.

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Slightly modified Lt. Khaki 3.7 2004 LTD 4X4. Purchased new 8/6/03.
What I don't have....A Mag light mounted to my seat.
Original Old L.O.S.T. #000354

Nick's Pics & Mods click here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/531173
http://www.survivaltopics.com/forums/

They seemed to go at about 30 k. I took his jeep out last week to find only the drivers side driving. The Jeep pushed very hard to the right under accel. Upon opening the rear, I could see the metal in the fluid. Upon inspection of the components, the syncros were shot, as were the active spacers. the paddles on the spaceres were deformed and ground down. The rest of the components looked good.

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05 Liberty Rocky Mtn.
02 Renny...Traded for 2010 F150, 8200 GVWR, Plow prep, Max tow
1983 Husq. Model 61, modded
Husq 335 XPT, trail saw, modded

...and even then you only get very minor chirping. Not something that's going to send you sideways.

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Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

I have well over 30k on mine and no problems.

My experiences....a lot of different vehicles lots of different lockers etc.

I will NEVER run a lunch box locker (lockright/aussie,no-slip,ezlocker etc) in the rear of a vehicle.
If you want a real locker, buy a real locker!! The good old REAL Detroit is hard to beat. It is predictable! After a few days of driving, you adjust to it and know what it will do. the lunchbox lockers always having you guessing when and what is is goint to do! The Detroit will only unlock when coasting into a corner, the other tend to lock/unlock when they want without the predicability. Getting on and off the gas at highway speeds can be hairy.
Stay away from the fulltime lockers if you have a manual trans. When there is no torque applied they will unlock, then lock again when you give them power. The resulting jolt can make you change lanes if you are not ready for it. Again a Detroit will do the same to a lesser degree then the lunch boxers.
A trutrac will not exhit problems at all on dry roads.

Ice is a problem for ANY full time locker and limited slip/posi's. They all use torque differences to allow one wheel to slip/unlock. BUT with both on ice, there is no torque difference and both wheels will spin at the same rate which will cause the rear end to drift to the the side. (generall to the curb due to the road crown) Posi's act like lockers in the ice.

ARB is the best choice for safety/quirks, but they come with their own set of problems. I am NOT an ARB fan, but they are the best of the selectable's available. I have 2 leaky ones in my PSD right now (PO installed them, I would prefer a detroit)
But unless something better comes out, the libby will likely get an ARB at some point.

All that being said, I have Detroits front and rear in my EB, and the XJ my wife had prior to the Libby had a Detroit in the rear and it was her daily driver for many years....winter snow and all. You just need to learn to drive with the locker, not against it....and not drive like it is open!!!!

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2006 CRD KJ sport 2.5" with 235/85/16's
95 F250 PSD (not stock)
73 Bronco Buggy (REALLY not stock)
90 Miata (sold)
'49 Studebaker PU (sold)

Milner, I agree. You drive with a locker, not against it. In my Dad's 02 KJ, that was the last lunchbox locker I have installed. My 02 3500 dually got the Detroit No-Spin at 300 miles. It was the Cummins HO six speed manual. Being an 8400# truck, the No-Spin was very predictable. With each shift, you feel the slight pull to one side or another. Those D80's are a real PITA to set up (case spreader, inboard shims, weight). BUT, the D80 is great to set up because the pinion uses shims to set the preload, not a crush sleeve...I am not a fan of crush sleeves.). My current 05 KJ got the Detroit TT at 200 miles. The 8.25 chrysler is a breeze to set up. I would say that the 8.25 is a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty scale to set up, and that is mainly due to the special tools needed for the first time builder, such as the spanner wrench and dial indicator. Buy the tools once, and they will pay for themselves in the first time when you do your own labor.

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05 Liberty Rocky Mtn.
02 Renny...Traded for 2010 F150, 8200 GVWR, Plow prep, Max tow
1983 Husq. Model 61, modded
Husq 335 XPT, trail saw, modded

OK now my take
I have a power trax in the rear of the TJ
destroyed the syncros in less than a week no one know's why but like any thing that moves metal on metal
it can fail ,luckily they were replaced free of charge
I now run it into the ground WAY HARDER THAN YOU COULD EVER PUSH ONE WITH A KJ
and it has not failed
I know guys running them in rigs with 35's and 4.88 gears with no issues
they are easily repaired by the person who put it in ,most times that will be you
all the springs and syncros can be replaces
I have an auto and can not realy tell it is there, not as smoth as the trac loc was but not as bad as a detroit
I also have an ARB locker in the front for 2+ years and the only air leak was from the lolly pop spinning
and the copper hose getting cut besides that best locker ever

Now my brother has a YJ with a TT front and as far as I am concerned it is not worth a poop for the rear
not that great for the front if you have a YJ on 35's ,should just be locked, but better than open
you can give me this "apply a little break and it will pull" crud all day long but I call BS
if he lifts a wheel he DOES NOT MOVE FORWARD breaks or not he just stops
with "a bad case of the 1 wheel peel" breaks just slow the spinning wheel but he dont move
The other wheel is getting the same break's so why would he?
Remember befor you post the "I have one and mine dont do that stuff" we are running level 3+ trails on a 1-5 system
so not what 99% of the KJ's out there can run ,at least not up hill
on these trails your wheels WILL come off the ground and can some times be better measured in feet
see my post about the New off-road park in the south

I say get any full time locker if you want a locker because that is what it will do ,lock up
if you want good road manners and driveability then get a LSD because that is what it will do ,LIMIT wheel spin not lock them up

Just my .02

I just ordered a powertrax so I hope it will hold up as some of you have experienced.

Chris

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2002 Liberty, 3.7L auto, Franky

I have a powertrax extreme locker and so far so good. It's been good on the trail and I drive a bit different on road so it won't lock up on turns and such. It made my trac-lock from the factory look useless. Joe

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Joe
L.O.S.T. #000391
2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport with hooks, skids, trac-lok rear.

I guess the question you have to ask yourself before getting any kind of traction aid is what will I use it for? If you going to offroad once a year and drive to work the rest of the time I don't think you can really justify getting a locker, just get TrueTrac. On another hand if you are hitting the trails quite often you will be better off with the locker and not TT.

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05 Liberty 4x4, Atlantic Blue
Extended Breathers
3/4 Mopar Skids
OME Lift, 245/75/16 General Grabbers AT2, ProComp Extreme Alloys 7189
Mopar Tow Hooks