Frankenlift Install

nlife · **Joined:** Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:43 pm **Posts:** 226

I'm having a little problem getting the front Frankenlift assembly into the clevis on my 03 sport. I'm sure others have dealt with the problem before and may have a little advise for me. The instructions that came with it are a little vague. In fact, the instructions say something to the affect of 'getting the struts into the clevis can be time consuming. We suggest using a pry bar'. Essentially that is the same as saying 'taking a nut off a bolt is difficult therefore we suggest using a wrench'. Well, ok.... I have a pry bar, but I guess I'm not using it 'properly'. :oops:

I have removed the bolt holding the clevis (obviously or I would not have been able to remove the old strut/spring assembly), have removed the nut holding the stabilizer bar, have the suspension extended down as low as I can get it without removing the CV's (which I'm also having a problem with now! not due to lift :evil:

), but the strut still will not go into the clevis. I have spring compressors and will try them tomorrow, but I'm not sure that they will help. I have a feeling that they will compress the spring while the strut stays fully extended. Things would be so much simpler if they would sell the unit compressed so that you could line it up before it's fully extended.

Next on the list is to figure out how to install the Al's U A-arms without removing half of the engine...

Either way, tips anyone?

N

KJ04 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2008 6:21 am

Here is a write up with pics on install:http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29193

Jeep4me99 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2008 9:43 am

just like in the link above....use ratchet straps. I had to use two, one to pull the clevis in, and another to pull the LCS down farther. You may even have to use a pry bar a little too. Be very careful not to puncture the inner CV boot with the bottom spring perch of the struts. Very easy to do if you go OME struts.

kj924 · **Joined:** Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:01 pm **Posts:** 103

Why do you need rachet straps? I put the strut assembly in by myself with the cleavis and strut together and used a 3 foot 2x4 for prying down on LCA. The trick is to get the strut hanging from the 4 upper mount bolts ( loose) and bring the cleavis in close to the bolt hole and then gently let the LCA up and this draws the bottom of the cleavis in toward the motor.

It's hard to explain, but very easy to do. I tried to muscle it into place, then stumbled on the secret.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2008 10:25 am

I have only done one Frankenlift But two Rustys and three OMEs, I didn't see much difference in them, had to use a pry bar and the rachet strap just for a little help since I did it myself but otherwise slid right up in on both sides, just takes a little time and patience

nlife · **Joined:** Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:43 pm **Posts:** 226

Thanks for the tips and links guys! Looks like a need a bigger pry bar. This should make things go a little easier. I also think I'm going to have to pickup a set of deep drive sockets and oh how I wish I had air tools :cry:

. Oh well, back at 'er with a fresh day ahead!

N

nlife · **Joined:** Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:43 pm **Posts:** 226

ok moving along! I got the strut in place, have installed Al's UCA on the drivers side and ran into another little snag. The king nut in the UCA will not tighten to the point where I can put the cotter pin through it and if that wasn't dandy enough, now it will not come off. It just spins. Everything else is in place, torqued and installed with the exception of the sway bar and the king nut. I'm not sure how to deal with the king nut, and I was hoping the sway bar would re-align itself when the weight of the vehicle was put on it. It did not and I'm not too sure how to get it back on.

So once again I must turn to the LOST members for tips! I am starting on the other side of the vehicle while I wait for replies. Just to be clear, the vehicle is not insured and I will not be driving it with a buggered king nut on the UCA, however, i would like to get this done with! I can take pictures to show yall what's going on if need be.

N

kj924 · **Joined:** Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:01 pm **Posts:** 103

The king nut is the nut on the upper balljoint stud , right? If so, you need to put some weight on that stud to keep it from turning in the ball socket. Try prying down on the upper control arm to drive the balljoint stud further down into the spindle, if that fails, then put the tire on and let the KJ down on her wheels....then try to tighten the king nut.

Whatever way, you need to keep that stud from spinning. I assume that you are working strong-arm? No air tools?

So, did you have to use the rachet straps? :shock:

nlife · **Joined:** Thu Aug 16, 2007 11:43 pm **Posts:** 226

kj924 wrote:

The king nut is the nut on the upper balljoint stud , right? If so, you need to put some weight on that stud to keep it from turning in the ball socket. Try prying down on the upper control arm to drive the balljoint stud further down into the spindle, if that fails, then put the tire on and let the KJ down on her wheels....then try to tighten the king nut.

Whatever way, you need to keep that stud from spinning. I assume that you are working strong-arm? No air tools?

So, did you have to use the rachet straps? :shock:

Thanks KJ, that's about what I thought. I used the rachet straps on the clevis and the sway bar links as well as the two sides leveled out when I put the other strut on. I have a pic and will post it later.

Yes I am strong arming it :evil:

I'd give my left king nut for air tools. I do have an electric impact wrench, but it's too big to fit into many of the places and where it does fit, it seems to lack in power. It's done everything that I've needed so far, I just wish I had an air rachet for the UCA's. THAT WAS NOT FUN! Especially on the drivers side.

As for the king nut, do you use the metal 'washer' that comes with Al's UCA's? It's about 1/4" thick and should take up the difference between the ball joint and the cotter pin hole in the the king nut. The instructions were kind of vauge in that they said to use it if your vehicle came with one, but not to use it if your vehicle didn't. So I dunno.

I'll try torquing the king nut down on the passenger side as that's the last thing I have to do before I put the wheel back on. Then I get to work on the rear, although that'll probably have to wait until next weekend when I can get back up here again.

N

KJ04 · **Posted:** Sun May 25, 2008 10:22 pm

You should be able to do the rear in an hour. Remove the rear swaybar and the springs will go in easy, then leave the swaybar off.

Frankenlift Install

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