I like my Tom Wood's front drive shaft. If you'd like more information e-mail me at wasatch@utahbroadband.com and I'll e-mail you a pdf on what it took to change over. It is MORE work but I have had zero front driveshaft problems since the switch.
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| Transfercase CV shaft http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37335 |
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| Author: | LRwrnglr [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 1:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Transfercase CV shaft |
Well tonight one of my buddies got stuck so I went and pulled him out. I put it into 4lo and pulled him out but there was a rattling up front. I did make it home and crawled underneath and found that the CV join, if it is a CV joint, that mates up to the Transfercase for the front driveshaft is about toast. I have searched on here but haven't found what I am looking for. I have a couple questions.... To replace this do I have to replace the whole front driveshaft? How much, approxamately, will this set me back? Thanks LR |
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| Author: | Hood297 [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes you will have to replace the entire shaft. I recently had to do so. I swapped in a used one for about 125. a new one will be over 300. Or get a JE Reel DS with U-joints. Im sure someone will chime in soon, but I beleive it will set you back a lil over 500. and will be alot more work since you have to change out the Diffs input shaft and the T-cases output shaft to accept U- Joints. |
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| Author: | Wasatch15 [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I like my Tom Wood's front drive shaft. If you'd like more information e-mail me at wasatch@utahbroadband.com and I'll e-mail you a pdf on what it took to change over. It is MORE work but I have had zero front driveshaft problems since the switch.
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| Author: | gone_jeepin [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I am also having a similar problem. I got stuck and when I got out the front end was making the same sound you described. I believe mine is where it meets the front diff instead of the transcase |
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| Author: | trailman [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
My front drive shaft just recently went out just as you described yours. I actually had to take it out and run without it for a couple of days before my new one came in. Mine was replaced under warranty but I believe the actual Mopar price when I looked it up was closer to 450-500 dollars. I'll see how long this one lasts, but when it goes out, I'm getting the Tom Woods one as described above. Yes you have to replace the whole assembly and also I was able to get mine out without disconnecting the exhaust. |
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| Author: | LRwrnglr [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey everybody thanks for the replies, it really helped. Now I just have to find one. Stealer ship cost, better get some vaseline, $535 not in stock. Roomates dad owns a salvage yard and he can get new for $370....used for about $125 but some have damage, loose or holes in boots. Thanks LR |
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| Author: | LRwrnglr [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I want to ask everybody for their opinion. So I won't get my new shaft until Tuesday but......I have a date to go wheeling on Sunday. So would you guys pack the thing full of grease, go on the trip, but just take it easy, or just not go? What other disasters could sprout from this if I go wheeling and the shaft comes apart? LR |
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| Author: | ReneDave [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It wouldn't be a stretch to imagine that the pinion or transfer case yoke could be toasted by a front driveshaft going bad. I'm surprised these aren't rebuildable, though. It seems to me for the prices listed you could get the necessary parts a couple times over. |
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| Author: | Hood297 [ Fri Nov 14, 2008 7:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
LRwrnglr wrote: I want to ask everybody for their opinion. So I won't get my new shaft until Tuesday but......I have a date to go wheeling on Sunday. So would you guys pack the thing full of grease, go on the trip, but just take it easy, or just not go? What other disasters could sprout from this if I go wheeling and the shaft comes apart?
LR I would go with it, but bring tools if you need to take it out on the trail. |
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| Author: | LRwrnglr [ Sat Nov 15, 2008 5:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey guys thanks for the input. I just got done with my D-ring mounts on the front, I did them a little different than using the 1.25" hitches. But I am going to go wheelin, just pack it full of grease and take it easy. I should have some pics of the trip and I will post them, thanks LR |
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| Author: | kskj [ Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've got a used one that would get you back home on sunday if you finish that one off on the trail. I'll bring it in case you need it. |
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| Author: | cj7jeepguy [ Thu Nov 20, 2008 4:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | not me to |
noticed a clattering when locked it in 4x4 , see that the rear boot is tore on the front driveshaft and I have some movement in the (tranny side ) jiont. It doesn't seem real bad yet. Why does it only make noise when engaged in 4x4? doesn't it spin whenever you are moving. if the boot is tore it will just fling the grease outa it won't it. |
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| Author: | cj7jeepguy [ Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | what about this |
JEEP CV JOINT KIT FOR REAR CV JOINT OF FRONT PROP SHAFT don't know if this will take you there or not. cv retoration,inc out of jessup, maryland |
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| Author: | corwyyn [ Thu Nov 20, 2008 5:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: not me to |
cj7jeepguy wrote: noticed a clattering when locked it in 4x4 , see that the rear boot is tore on the front driveshaft and I have some movement in the (tranny side ) jiont. It doesn't seem real bad yet. Why does it only make noise when engaged in 4x4? doesn't it spin whenever you are moving. if the boot is tore it will just fling the grease outa it won't it. Noise is probably due to the fact that when 4WD is engaged there is more resistance on that end of the shaft - when the t-case is in 2WD it just spins freely, but trust me once enough of the grease is gone it'll make noise   kskj wrote: I've got a used one that would get you back home on sunday if you finish that one off on the trail. I'll bring it in case you need it.
Might be best to just swap that one in before the run and then he can always return it after he gets the new one in. Nothing worse than having it go out in the middle of a run and having to work on it
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| Author: | BostonJohn [ Mon Dec 01, 2008 3:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think I have this problem as well... when i'm in 4LO I hear this clanking sound. It kinda sounds like a bicycle changing gears... but the sound keeps going until I stop moving. After some good wheelin this weekend, I now get the noise when i'm in 2WD. Guess its time to take her in for a check-up... |
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| Author: | Christopher [ Mon Dec 01, 2008 11:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wasatch15 wrote: I like my Tom Wood's front drive shaft. If you'd like more information e-mail me at wasatch@utahbroadband.com and I'll e-mail you a pdf on what it took to change over. It is MORE work but I have had zero front driveshaft problems since the switch.
This really is the way to go. not much more than a factory one. think I spent $415 total. Plus the u-joints are greasable and replaceable. Plus Tom Woods makes a real nice DS. I am sure the REEL one is nice too. Chris |
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| Author: | jeepdaddy65 [ Wed Dec 03, 2008 4:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
After reading this post I checked mine out. And I did notice the the boot is cracked on the rear of the front drive shaft. I am wondering if it being so close to the catalytic convertor and the heat caused this problem. So far no noise or problems |
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| Author: | suero [ Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
the stealership changed my front driveshaft about a year ago, and they charged me about $850... ouch!!!!:shock: 
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