Well i'm a newbie and i need some expert advices to end up my lift. Thanks for your further helps despite my "not so good" English writing .

My preferred ride is to visit North Africa Countries and there I use to drive on rough tracks sometimes quicky (80 - 100 km/h). The oversteppings are not very hard except on sand.
Well after having tested a Daystar's lift with spacers and a medium Iron Man suspension (coils and shocks), both sagged very quickly on mines rough tracks, I finally put all around OME shocks and HD KINGSPRINGS coils (wellknown Australians ones) on my KJcrd giving approx 2.5" lift. Looks nice and confortable with nearly no rubbing from my 245/75/16 tires but I need some further advices to end up my suspensions and to be sure to have a very strong one :
* To avoid shocks to overcompress, do I need rear and front bumpstops ? Which height ? Can you give me links on web shops to get them right in France.
* Do I need to change A-upper arms ?
* As the front still looks lower than the rear, can i make a 3/8 clevis lift without any issues on the strongness ? If yes, where can i order for conduit nuts on the web ? Or is it better to put upper plates ? Or both ?
* Except OME shocks (that we all know), Koni shocks (that don't fit a 2.5" lift) and Proflex shocks (European racing ones for 1000 $ each ), what are the strongest shocks you know in US ?

A lot of thanks for your answers.

_________________
KJ 2.8L CRD AUTO 2004
Kingsprings HD coils, OME shoks, Asfir skids
245x75x16 tires

First I'd like to know why you think that a Koni shock won't fit on a 2,5" lift?

The front shocks are all the same size. The lift comes from the thoughness of the spring. (that and I am now running a 2" lift with al stock shocks!)

* To avoid shocks to overcompress, do I need rear and front bumpstops ? Which height ? Can you give me links on web shops to get them right in France.

Yes you do need bumpstops. You can make the rears yourself from a rubber hammer or hockypucks. For the front I ordered 3" Terraflex from Trailquest.com in the US. Shipping was $28 to Barcelona.
http://www.trailquest.com/teraflex/KJ/suspension.shtml#bumpstop

* Do I need to change A-upper arms ?

No you don't, not with a 2,5"lift.

* As the front still looks lower than the rear, can i make a 3/8 clevis lift without any issues on the strongness ? If yes, where can i order for conduit nuts on the web ? Or is it better to put upper plates ? Or both ?

you can level it, just do a 10mm clevis lift. You do not need conduit nuts. No need for a top plate either.

* Except OME shocks (that we all know), Koni shocks (that don't fit a 2.5" lift) and Proflex shocks (European racing ones for 1000 $ each Shocked ), what are the strongest shocks you know in US ?

I am not in the US but for what it's worth:

OME
RANCHO
KONI

Unless you are talking about the rear axle, then there's the OME 132L or Rancho 17004. Those are aprox. 2,5" longer then stock.

You can get those in the US. Yeah I know, shipping is high but you´re still cheaper then buying stuff in Europe.

_________________
Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es

Thanks a lot for your answers Tony.

* For the Konis, it's a salesman from Koni that told me... Koni's HD shocks seems to be designed for max 40 mm lift, otherwise they will be too much extended with the lift and working only on the highest range that's not perfectly good...
* Fine for the bumpstops.
* I'm always wearing out the inside side of my front tires, that's why i was wondering about new upper A-arms that seems to get back (with an alignment) to the stock spec...? After the late alignment i made, the workman told me he can't adjust it more so i'am still wearing out my tires...
* I understood that conduit nuts are not absolutely needed for a clevis lift but I would be more confident (mainly in my head perhaps) with the clevis lift if i have conduit nuts while running rough tracks quickly...
* I know these longer rear shocks (i tried 2" Trailmaster ones) but i had a bad experience while a crossing axles (don't know if this is the right word) where i lost one rear coil... Perhaps a tightened belt is needed when you put longers on.

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KJ 2.8L CRD AUTO 2004
Kingsprings HD coils, OME shoks, Asfir skids
245x75x16 tires

Well, I guess that goes for all brands of shocks, especialy for the rear of the KJ.



Strange, I have a lift and my KJ lined out fine. Take it to another tire specialist.



Ok, so then look in hardware stores where they sell stuff for construction, these nuts are used by electricians.



I´ve never heared of anyone loosing a spring with the OME setup. Maybe the Trailmaster's were a little bit to long?

_________________
Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es

Thanks for your replies Tony.
Well, I think you're right for the upper A-Arms (we could have a good alignment without them) but i guess it could be better with... So I will try this experience and give you news after.

I have one more question about the clevis lift : are the coils and springs a little bit more compressed after this kind of mod ?

_________________
KJ 2.8L CRD AUTO 2004
Kingsprings HD coils, OME shoks, Asfir skids
245x75x16 tires

No, compression comes from spacers inside the strut assembly such as Daystar. Most people do a 3/8" clevis which nets 3/4" of lift. It'a a 2:1 ratio.

_________________
Slightly modified Lt. Khaki 3.7 2004 LTD 4X4. Purchased new 8/6/03.
What I don't have....A Mag light mounted to my seat.
Original Old L.O.S.T. #000354

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