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 Post subject: Skink Slider Template
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:04 pm 
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Does anyone have a copy of the Skink Slider Template (for the pinch welds)? I'm getting a used set and there's no template :(

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 6:42 pm 
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I have one that I no longer need, you can have it for cost of shipping if you want. You could make one from sheet metal though. I think Marty makes the template the same time as the sliders, so mine may not be exactly a perfect match to yours.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:04 pm 
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why not just hold the sliders up and mark the holes? use the slider itself as the template...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:56 am 
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yeah you don't need the template, and mine really wasn't spot on either. the punch that was included was pretty useful though. I think it was a spring-loaded punch. GREAT IDEA!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:13 am 
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Ok, I'm just going to hold the sliders up & mark the holes that way.

Can I buy a spring-loaded punch at an Ace Hardware? What kind of bolts do I need? Does anyone have pictures of the sliders attached to the pinch weld (close up shot)? Will I need to remove the plastic panels (I have an '05)?

Any help/advice is greatly appreciated - still new to putting on armor and all that.

Thanks!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 10:28 am 
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I removed the plastic panel, and i might be able to get you some pics by tonight. I am pretty sure you can get the punch at ace, but if not, for sure at Lowe's, b/c my brother went there to buy one for himself.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:14 am 
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riptricket wrote:
I removed the plastic panel, and i might be able to get you some pics by tonight. I am pretty sure you can get the punch at ace, but if not, for sure at Lowe's, b/c my brother went there to buy one for himself.


What size punch is it? (I presume there are different sizes). If you can get pictures, that'd be great!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:26 am 
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If you have a Harbor Freight in your area you can buy a spring loaded center punch for about $3-4.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:26 am 
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most any punch will work , not that it is really needed, to drill start with a small size and work up, taking your time. For a patteren use light weight cardboard and mark the holes on it and hold it up to the pinch weld and mark the holes. Do sit the rail in place first to make sure of where you need to be and then adjust your patteren

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:32 am 
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How long of a job will this be?

Any time spent with the Jeep, is time well spent, but it's only 12 degrees here... and the garage is unheated.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:48 am 
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spring loaded punches are awesome.

the boulderbars used 1/4-20 bolts...

make sure to use nylocks on the bolts...

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2008 Xterra 4x4

1986 CJ7
Lots of custom stuff...

Gone, But not Forgotten...
2003 Sport - 'Fire Engine' Red
Detours KJ Backbone
Skids
Boulder Bars
JBA 4.5 A Arms
245/75/16 Wrangler Duratracs's on Cragar Soft 8’s
Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers
Superwinch LP 8500
Frankenlifted


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:50 am 
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callaway wrote:
spring loaded punches are awesome.

the boulderbars used 1/4-20 bolts...

make sure to use nylocks on the bolts...


Umm - what's a nylock, and if I walk into a hardware store & ask for them, will they know what I mean? Is it something I can find at Ace or some place like it?

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2005 Liberty Sport 4x4

Frankenlift; Skink Sliders; Skid Row front skid; Mopar trans, t-case, and gas tank skids; f/r recovery points; Cobra 75 WX ST; Renegade light bar; hardwired radar detector; 245/75 Guard Dog MTs; Optima Red Top, Amsoil air filter


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:55 am 
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nylocks have a thin strip of nylon at one end that stop the nut from unscrewing due to vibration. Any hardware store should have these.

Image

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2008 Xterra 4x4

1986 CJ7
Lots of custom stuff...

Gone, But not Forgotten...
2003 Sport - 'Fire Engine' Red
Detours KJ Backbone
Skids
Boulder Bars
JBA 4.5 A Arms
245/75/16 Wrangler Duratracs's on Cragar Soft 8’s
Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers
Superwinch LP 8500
Frankenlifted


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:34 pm 
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yellocoyote wrote:

Agreed.

I didn't have a template or a punch when I did my boulder bars. Just held the rails up to the pinch weld (with some help, of course), marked the holes off with a sharpie, used a hammer/nail to indent the center of the sharpie-circle a little, and then used a small drill bit to drill the pilot hole. Once the pilot hole was drilled, used the bit that was needed for the hardware that we used. Pretty simple - just time consuming. I think it too almost a couple hours per side.

Keep your drill bit lubed with oil or something similar... keeps from dulling down your bits too fast. I also used a cobalt bit vs. a normal bit.

Maybe a better project for a heated garage, or the springtime? Let me know if you need help.


Tim (you met him when we ran the Fountains) is going to help me, and we're in the process of trying to borrow his neighbors heated garage... so I'm hoping to get them on in the next week or so. It'll be nice to finally have sliders on & not worry so much about damage to the KJ. I'll definitely give you a holler if I need extra help though - thanks for the offer! :D

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Frankenlift; Skink Sliders; Skid Row front skid; Mopar trans, t-case, and gas tank skids; f/r recovery points; Cobra 75 WX ST; Renegade light bar; hardwired radar detector; 245/75 Guard Dog MTs; Optima Red Top, Amsoil air filter


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 1:10 pm 
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it took me 6 hours for the first one, and 2 first the other side, but that was because my brother was helping me and he's a perfectionist, and did not want to them to look like they were just slapped on there.
be sure to measure several times on the ends to match them up.
and be carfeul of metal leftovers from the pinch welds b/c I had a bunch of pieces in my knees/hands/arms/legs from rolling around in them.
and it is best to use a corded drill in my opinion b/c you don't have to stop and wait for it to charge, b/c there are a lot of holes!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 1:18 pm 
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I used a Dewalt 18v cordless to drill pilot holes and then a corded one to drill the final diameter hole.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 1:51 pm 
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when i put the boulder bars on I used a right angle corded drill. Was much easier when drilling into the frame than the normal drill.

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2008 Xterra 4x4

1986 CJ7
Lots of custom stuff...

Gone, But not Forgotten...
2003 Sport - 'Fire Engine' Red
Detours KJ Backbone
Skids
Boulder Bars
JBA 4.5 A Arms
245/75/16 Wrangler Duratracs's on Cragar Soft 8’s
Spidertrax 1.25" Spacers
Superwinch LP 8500
Frankenlifted


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 2:45 pm 
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first make sure the bolts you buy are Grade8, and second if you dont have a colbat drill bit Id definitly buy one it will make the drilling soo much easier

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:40 pm 
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For RL Skink sliders you will want the template,no way your going to be making the holes by holding the rail in place.You will need 5/16"x1.5" grade 8 bolts for the pinchweld,3/8" self tapping bolts for the mounting legs.

I don't know what happened to the site but there was install instructions,very detailed with pics,for installing them,off hand I can't find the page.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 1:57 am 
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my template was not on with my holes, so i didn't use it. had to hold the super skinks up and make holes with a sharpie... then drill them out


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