I have a 1 inch drop on my kj. I did mostly what Kjhawaii did except that I used 1 inch steel instead of 1/2 inch steel. You also need longer K frame bolts and a way to fab up a bracket to go between the upper A arm and the knuckle. I can send you pics of my bracket if you want. I did not lower the trans cross member or lower the steering box. I would imagine that for a 2 inch drop you would need to do both.
You can see that JBA's kit is mostly a set of 2 inch bars and hardware for the frame, and A arm/knuckle extender bracket and a trans cross member drop. I'm not sure what they did with the steering shaft. It's difficult to see from the website. So far I have 5 inches of lift and the drop is doing well.

Your killing your rear driveline angles without dropping the trans/t-case mount the same as the cradle and will damage your t-case,driveshaft,and rear end since you are now pointing the rear t-case output up and creating more extreme angle that the u-joints will not like for very long.Oh and when you drop the cradle you automatically drop the rack&pinion steering gear since it is bolted to the cradle.Just remember also that any lift(and lift gained by larger tires) is 100% lost with a cradle drop,so basically kinda pointless and to much hassle to deal with all the problems inherent to doing a cradle drop.

Got pics of your KJ? It's odd that myself and a few others live in the springs and have never seen you yet,besides the one failed RK lifted KJ never seen one lifted any higher then a Frankinlifted KJ.

So basically your saying that doing a drop is pointless bc of all the hassel thats going to come and bite you in the stupid?

but then why is JBA selling a 2in kit if it doesnt so anything? Like I wouldnt want to get something that does like nothing for my car....

Has anyone actually had their front diff fail? I have seen a few folks on this forum talk about their own personal diff giving way but very few. Is this one of those 1 guy talked about it so now everyone knows it to be fact?
For example, on a TJ a D30 front axle is said to be completely unreliable and a disaster waiting to happen with big tires; however, all the SFA's I have seen on this forum use a D30 front axle and are running 35 and 36" tires.

Not judging, just commenting.

Lastly, a bracket drop does have some use. It does gain ground clearance. Just not as much as if a solid axle resided in the front (more things hanging low).

the other one sold his SFA KJ with a bent HPD30 housing.

who was that?

Isnt he still on here tho? I remember seeing a few posts?

But getting back on topic....how do you bend your housing even with a HPD30?

Now you see the fallicy of thinking that a HP D30 is "equal to" a better axle, like a D44. I have read that exact thing on the 'net so many times, and I kind of chuckle when I do. Same size axle u-joints in the later years and a more optimal location of the pinion on the ring gear (the only thing the "HP" effects) does not make it the equal to a better axle because of all of the other factors where the better axle is superior. Even a LP d44 is a way better choice. They came under 3/4 ton trucks with 32" tires from the factory, and somehow do not bend.

There have been enough D30a's explode in the exact same way to show me that there is an issue. Many of them were on stock rigs, at that. But as I have posted before, the D30a is based on the D30, an axle that for 35 years has been considered a weak link good enough just until you could swap it. So the d30a being kinda crappy should not surprise anyone.

SFA guys should get in line with the XJ, Wrangler, Nissan, & Toy folks in trying to find a set of FSJ axles for their swaps.