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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 4:21 pm 
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Look at your shock. I had this issue last year with a new one and it was the strut rebound valve that had broken.

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 9:45 am 
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rbm922 wrote:
Look at your shock. I had this issue last year with a new one and it was the strut rebound valve that had broken.

Did that make noise over bumps and stuff too. Mine only does it when changing direction and then applying the brakes.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bar

2014 F150 EcoBoost - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, Bilstein 5100's, Airlift Bags, Duratracs


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 8:51 pm 
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Location: Central Florida
I could not get the normal ball joint test methods (the pry board method described here or the prying between the knuckle and lower control arm) to show a problem, but the boots were gone and I was getting a clunk in turns with my otherwise new front suspension. I changed them and found them to be extremely loose. Pulling the bolt with my fingers gets about .5 mm movement (guestimate) and there is about as much side to side wiggle. Of course they are flop around freely too.

I hadn't tried the screw type extractor so I rented that and gave it a shot without removing the knuckle. It was a complete fail for me. I had a hard time finding a way to fit the clamp and cups to the joint in a way that allowed it to work and then started to bend the clamp when driving the screw with my impact wrench. I ended up taking the knuckle off (disconnected the top end of the wheel speed sensor wire) and used my press to pop them out and seat the new ones.

Everything feels like new now.

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 3:47 am 
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I only get a clunk clunk clunk when rolling forward and BRAKING, but to me it feels like warped rotors....... goes away the instant i release the brake pedal. could this be the ball joints instead? vehicle has 263,000 ish KM's (canada) on it, Not sure of repair history on any of the ball joints. I'll be doing the lift test tomorrow....

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 6:43 am 
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Bushman : i would check the pads, caliper sliders, and caliper bolts to make sure the anti-rattle clips, caliper slider pins are moving smoothly and that the bolts are tight (by retorquing them after removing them and checking the caliper slider pins)

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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 2:29 pm 
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Ok did the lift test on the front , zero movement in the in either the upper or lower ball joints.

Suspecting the ROTORS on the front. Thanks all.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 12:31 am 
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ok so nothing in the binder of repairs about ball joints...these are original. Truck has been used occasionally by 2nd owner to tow a tent trailer. Im 3rd owner, sitting at 264700 km's (Canada)

should i replace them anyways?

pretty pricy (almost triple) up here to get JBA upper arms and MOOGS. Like almost 3 weeks wages after exchange rate , duties and shipping.

should i just replace the lower ball joints and see if that works out?

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead


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 Post subject: Re: HOW TO CHECK YOUR BALL JOINTS.
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 2:00 am 
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UPDATE: not the ball joint!

replaced the front rotors and pads and its back to normal. very quiet and SMOOOOTH when braking, even hard.

had a buddy that runs a 4x4 shop test drive it ahrd and he recomended the above. Looked at the BJ's and said they are just fine.

whew.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead


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