LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Ta-Da! Daystar 2.5 complete. Pics on pg 2.

**P.S. what's a Dynastar 2.5? Did you mean Daystar, or is there something new that I've missed?

I have never had to loosen the cam bolt on any of the 8 or 10 lifts to date, no sense in creating more work, as mentioned above rachet strap works great everytime on any lift, even when adding way more than what you're suppose to be able to cram in there :wink:

why do you think you need aa new UBJ nut?

I'm sure that'll be next. So before I do that, how did you stop it from turning?

*The passenger side strut/clevis was quit a bit easier after having fought with the driver side for so long.

GeoJeeper wrote:

I'm sure that'll be next. So before I do that, how did you stop it from turning?

*The passenger side strut/clevis was quit a bit easier after having fought with the driver side for so long.

following Tom Mudd's advice I jammed the stock tire iron in the coil and pressed down hard enough to keep the ubj from spinning while I tightened the nut.

hi Tom! :lol:

:lol:

dunno about you guy's but i used my hands and my knee and didn't have any of these crazy issues of getting things back in

Author:	GeoJeeper [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:09 pm ]
Post subject:	Ta-Da! Daystar 2.5 complete. Pics on pg 2.
I've been fighting with this thing since yesterday. Maybe I missed something along the way, but I can't get the strut/clevis back together do to the length of the strut assy. I've tried putting the clevis on the strut and then put the lower clevis bolt in, but can't get it up high enough. I've tried putting the lower clevis bolt in and then trying to mate the strut/clevis, again, can't get them together. Was I supposed to leave the spring compressor on? In the pics in two different sets of instructions I've found, they don't appear to have the compressors on at that time of installation. If I did, I don't think I'd be able to get them off my coils once the strut is installed. Any suggestions?

Author:	RAYMAN975 [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:05 pm ]
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you can try unhooking the sway bar link. and have someone with a pry-bar or a 2x4 to pry/push the lower arm downward to slip the lower fork bolt in through the arm. i never had to remove the swaybar link, just with a slight pry downward on the arm was enough to allow the fork to slip over the arm to allow the bolt through. there is a little "lip" on the actual fork where the bolt goes through, it kinda has to slip OVER the hole in the lower a-arm, instead of just sliding it back, you will see what im talking about

Author:	daspes [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:07 pm ]
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Ratchet strap attached to the clevis fork and something solid on the other side of the jeep (other clevis, subframe, etc.). Then start ratcheting them together. I've also found it can be helpful to have a buddy push down on the LCA at the same time. **P.S. what's a Dynastar 2.5? Did you mean Daystar, or is there something new that I've missed?

Author:	GeoJeeper [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:09 pm ]
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Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. I think I found the problem. I didn't get the part in KJ Taz's instructions about the cam bolt. I rotated it and now I'm closer. Just need to do a little prying. Thanks again.

Author:	GeoJeeper [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:11 pm ]
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daspes wrote: **P.S. what's a Dynastar 2.5? Did you mean Daystar, or is there something new that I've missed? Yep, Daystar... I'm a tard. I don't know why I keep calling it Dynastar. Not sure where I got that from...

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Ta-Da! Daystar 2.5 complete. Pics on pg 2. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44968	Page 1 of 4

Author:	tommudd [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 1:40 pm ]
Post subject:
I have never had to loosen the cam bolt on any of the 8 or 10 lifts to date, no sense in creating more work, as mentioned above rachet strap works great everytime on any lift, even when adding way more than what you're suppose to be able to cram in there

Author:	GeoJeeper [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 5:20 pm ]
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Ok, if it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all... Anybody know what size the nut is for the upper ball joint? Not what socket size, but what to ask for from the parts store as a replacement? Maybe the better question is the upper ball joint bolt size for a new nut. Any way you look at it, I need a new upper ball joint nut.

Author:	DryBones [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 6:46 pm ]
Post subject:
why do you think you need aa new UBJ nut?

Author:	long_tall_texan [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:22 pm ]
Post subject:
tommudd wrote: I have never had to loosen the cam bolt on any of the 8 or 10 lifts to date, no sense in creating more work, as mentioned above rachet strap works great everytime on any lift, even when adding way more than what you're suppose to be able to cram in there I have had to turn the cam bolts on mine with the Daystar if I add conduit nuts, or if I add the top plate spacers, or both . The spacers for the front don't allow you to push in as easily as they do with the longer OME springs. And then of course, have to use the ratchet straps. Be sure to use one on each side of the clevis fork. Makes it a lot easier to line up.

Author:	GeoJeeper [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:44 pm ]
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DryBones wrote: why do you think you need aa new UBJ nut? Ok, I'm swallowing my pride here because I feel like such an idiot. I'm not normally this much of a mechanical moron. To answer your question.. I grabbed the UBJ nut by accident and started threading it onto the lower clevis bolt. Ruined the threads. They appear to be the same size, just different thread. At first, it twisted right on. Then as you get turning the socket, it started to bind. By then it's too late. Therefore, I need a UBJ nut.

Author:	DryBones [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:03 pm ]
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ouch, thought maybe you had the spinning ball joint issue I had while trying to tighten down the nut.

Author:	GeoJeeper [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 8:07 pm ]
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I'm sure that'll be next. So before I do that, how did you stop it from turning? *The passenger side strut/clevis was quit a bit easier after having fought with the driver side for so long.

Author:	DryBones [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:51 pm ]
Post subject:
GeoJeeper wrote: I'm sure that'll be next. So before I do that, how did you stop it from turning? *The passenger side strut/clevis was quit a bit easier after having fought with the driver side for so long. following Tom Mudd's advice I jammed the stock tire iron in the coil and pressed down hard enough to keep the ubj from spinning while I tightened the nut. hi Tom!

Author:	TAHOE [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 9:56 pm ]
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once you get the clevis back in, then you can put the ratchet strap from LCA tp UCA and tighten them enough to keep the balljoint shaft from turning... frees up both hands.

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Author:	jeepkj02 [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:06 pm ]
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DryBones wrote: GeoJeeper wrote: I'm sure that'll be next. So before I do that, how did you stop it from turning? *The passenger side strut/clevis was quit a bit easier after having fought with the driver side for so long. following Tom Mudd's advice I jammed the stock tire iron in the coil and pressed down hard enough to keep the ubj from spinning while I tightened the nut. hi Tom! I find it easier to use a 10mm wrench on the BJ stud and 21mm wrench to tighten down the nut.

Author:	JeepinJarhead03 [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:17 pm ]
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dunno about you guy's but i used my hands and my knee and didn't have any of these crazy issues of getting things back in

Author:	RAYMAN975 [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 10:33 pm ]
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JeepinJarhead03 wrote: :lol: dunno about you guy's but i used my hands and my knee and didn't have any of these crazy issues of getting things back in me niether! i never had to use a ratchet strap. a simple little pushing the LCA downwards and the fork pops right into place on the LCA, and i slide the bolt through. no removal of the swaybar link or anything like that, just unhook the UBJ and thats it

Author:	GeoJeeper [ Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:22 pm ]
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Thanks for the tips gentlemen. I guess I should have taken a picture to show how far down the clevis was below the LCA. Because no matter how much me and my buddy (Geoknight) pushed, pulled and pried it would not go until I turned the cam bolt. Then, with the ratchet strap and a pry bar we finally got it together. As I said before, the passenger side went a lot easier, knowing some tricks learned from fighting with the driver's side.

Author:	4WheelAholic [ Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:10 am ]
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Hey if it makes you feel any better GeoJeeper I fought with my driver side for 2 days...aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh I was about to pull what little hair I have on my head out. I used ratchet straps and a pry bar against the spring to get the ubj nut back on....it was overkill but after the problems I had it was just good insurance.