Getting work done (Shocks/struts, hubs, brakes, ?)

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:40 am

My 06 CRD is currently in the shop getting a new turbo installed, and while it is in I'm going to have the unit bearings replaced up front. While they've got that all apart I was thinking I'd have them do some new brake pads up front. So what I was planning to go with for those parts are:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=419818&cc=1432225 Akebono Part# ACT856 front ceramics for 48.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1119957&cc=1432225 Timken Part# HA599455L for 138.79 EA

Now is there any reason I should go with EBC Greenstuff 6000 pads? They'd be about 25 dollars more, but this is just a daily driver and doesn't tow so I didn't feel I needed to step up to the EBC. But you all may feel differently!

Now while my mechanic is in there doing the front hubs and all, my shocks are pretty darn wore out! This last winter especially they were just done. Normally I'd just buy a set of Bilsteins but the darn strut design up front is in the way. Since it's a heavy CRD motor up there, I was thinking about just going with drop in replacement strut rather then buying a new shock, having the old springs taken off and put back onto the new one, etc. Is that flawed thinking? Would it be so bad to do that drop in up front and just doing brand new shocks up front? What do you all recommend? Here's my thoughts:

http://www.amazon.com/Moog-ST8565R-Complete-Strut-Assembly/dp/B00CHFO0H0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ENSRKSEPPEQ52VV8JBA Moog RH Strut
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-ST8565L-Complete-Strut-Assembly/dp/B00CHFO0HK/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y Moog LH Strut
Total price combined: 278.85
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1259486&cc=1432225 Rancho RS5000 Rear Shocks - 46.79

Lastly, while we're in there taking care of these different parts is there anything else that could fall under the "since you're in there" line? Are there any bushings that should be changed that are not included with these parts?

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Jul 14, 2014 12:16 pm

I would never just replace the front shocks without replacing springs
If it has over 50-60,000 miles springs and shocks both need replaced.
replacing just the shocks and not the springs will cause extra stress on the new shocks and will wear them out quicker
If buying the assembly already together, make sure its for a CRD since you have heavier springs, not a fan of those setups ( much rather go OME or Ironman but.......)
As far as brake pads I go with the best or second best, never know when stopping a foot shorter could save your life

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:45 pm

I hear you on the brakes, guess I can bump that up to the EBC's!

And we're in agreement on replacing the shock/coils, but it sounds like you're suggesting something different. I don't do much wheeling, at most muddy fields or trails on property, pretty much all pavement. How much does it cost to have it put together at a shop usually? If I buy a set of coils and a set of front shocks does it include everything needed for assembly? Or do you reuse some hardware from old coilover? I'm all for spending the money to do it right, but I do have budgetary considerations too. ^_^ Trying to get married in <3 months. :dead:

HoosierJeeper · **Joined:** Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:23 am **Posts:** 1218

I have the EBCs and I like them so far, got about 1400 miles on them.

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:45 pm

http://www.placeforbrakes.com/product.php?pk=1632&pvk=2410282&cmk=31964&car_year=2006&avail=1 EBC GreenStuff 6000

Actually only like 15 dollars more then the Akebono's.

I've been looking around on the internet this afternoon and man it's a pain to find the spring rate of a coil, or when you find a coil it isn't for the CRD! The Moog prebuilt units I listed are an OEM replacement for the CRD though according to Rock Auto. They're also a lot cheaper on Rock Auto! Didn't see them before.

I guess now that I think about it, what is there for a small lift kit that might include the coils, struts, and shocks I'm buying already? If the difference in price isn't TOO much it may be worth considering.

HoosierJeeper · **Joined:** Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:23 am **Posts:** 1218

For about $900
http://jeepinbyal.com/collections/econo ... ift-kit-kj
You can select CRD from the drop down box thing.

http://jeepinbyal.com/collections/econo ... g-lift-kit

Those both say 1.5" but they are more in the 2"-2.5" range in reality.

Those are the least expensive options, but both of those will be far better than anything from Rock Auto.

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Jul 15, 2014 10:43 am

Spring rate for the stock CRD is 410 lb. Most places don't carry replacements since the CRDs were a low volume build
OME for example carries the 790s for the CRDs which are rated at 500 lb , last a lot longer than stock and ride is good. I've ran them on my gasser with ARB bumper etc

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Jul 18, 2014 8:56 am

FWIW, I would personally get the OME without even thinking... OME is the Rolls Royce of the suspension for offroad, like brembo is for brakes... otherwise, if you want to go cheaper, order the stock CRD springs from a dealer/online (part number is 52128880AA, [ZCK,ZRK]). Go to this post viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76708, you have even more alternatives. When I got mine, they were about $60 each, in September 2013. MoparpartsAmerica.com may have them. I got the OEM springs and not OME since I already had a lot of parts purchased for CRD, including front shocks. My spring isolators were in good shape, but I changed them anyways since I had new purchased. Top shock bushing was also in great shape. I am not 100% sure, but I think the isolators and top bushing are the same for both 3.7 and CRD, so getting some from NAPA I don't think is a problem if you find out they need to be replaced.

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Fri Jul 18, 2014 11:04 pm

Thanks for the reply and the link to your other thread.

I think I'm fairly sold on doing either the OME or the Ironman lift set. I try to follow the "do it once, do it right" principal as much as possible and the price isn't so unreasonable. I wish that for 800ish dollars those struts came assembled though!

It'd probably end up being less then double price to go with the lift components and gain better characteristics to boot. Just more saving.

How high can you go before the liberty starts having issues? I'm assuming 4" the issue starts because the biggest lift I saw on those pages was 3.5 (and I recognized your name tommudd lol). I think I read CV Axles start getting ate on one side? Do driveshafts or steering components ever become an issue?

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Jul 19, 2014 8:23 am

Tiarnon wrote:

Thanks for the reply and the link to your other thread.

I think I'm fairly sold on doing either the OME or the Ironman lift set. I try to follow the "do it once, do it right" principal as much as possible and the price isn't so unreasonable. I wish that for 800ish dollars those struts came assembled though!

It'd probably end up being less then double price to go with the lift components and gain better characteristics to boot. Just more saving.

How high can you go before the liberty starts having issues? I'm assuming 4" the issue starts because the biggest lift I saw on those pages was 3.5 (and I recognized your name tommudd lol). I think I read CV Axles start getting ate on one side? Do driveshafts or steering components ever become an issue?

On a CRD try and stay at 3 inches to 3.5, of course at 3.5 you'll also need to upgrade to the jeepinbyal upper control arms for better alignment and also to prevent coil spring/ upper control arm contact. At 2.5 -3 inches you'll be good . The CRDs are harder to get 4 inches or so since the front diff is moved over to the left side more and creates an issue with the CVs on that side.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Jul 19, 2014 8:23 am

tommudd wrote:

Tiarnon wrote:

Thanks for the reply and the link to your other thread.

I think I'm fairly sold on doing either the OME or the Ironman lift set. I try to follow the "do it once, do it right" principal as much as possible and the price isn't so unreasonable. I wish that for 800ish dollars those struts came assembled though!

It'd probably end up being less then double price to go with the lift components and gain better characteristics to boot. Just more saving.

How high can you go before the liberty starts having issues? I'm assuming 4" the issue starts because the biggest lift I saw on those pages was 3.5 (and I recognized your name tommudd lol). I think I read CV Axles start getting ate on one side? Do driveshafts or steering components ever become an issue?

On a CRD try and stay at 3 inches to 3.5, of course at 3.5 you'll also need to upgrade to the jeepinbyal upper control arms for better alignment and also to prevent coil spring/ upper control arm contact. At 2.5 -3 inches you'll be good . The CRDs are harder to get 4 inches or so since the front diff is moved over to the left side more and creates an issue with the CVs on that side.

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 21, 2014 12:00 pm

Tiarnon, what did you do and are you happy with the results?

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2014 11:32 pm

I've been stuck in neutral! Jeep comes home Monday from the shop. Will finally have the turbo done, and will be ordering the timken unit bearings this week to install. Just ordered the tools required to do that install. And I'm sure you noticed my posting in the Line-x thread about doing that bit of work. Also got the EBC brake pads standing by to install. The suspension parts are on the back burner while I take care of more immediate issues. I was set to go, but feel more comfortable getting these other ducks in a row.

Another factor is I'm unsure if I'll be sticking with my CRD more then the next year and a half. Hesitant to put lift parts into something I'm unsure of keeping. Seriously considering trading over for a 05-06 V6/6spd limited or a similar configuration KK. We'll see.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 24, 2014 6:48 am

Depending on how you drive of course but the place i got my jeep from orig had just put ebc brakes and rotors on, never ever ever ever had issues with brake dust or fade, and id have to pull paper work but we're going on 95k here rears at 50 fronts at 25 ish and about ready for new ones. Guess what I'll be going with again lol

I've always been easy on brakes on my dd but I'll warp the hell out of some rotors on my toys, stomped the brakes on my vette one night and lit up both sides of the street in sparks, those pads lasted an entire weekend :/
This is why we have jobs apparently

Getting work done (Shocks/struts, hubs, brakes, ?)

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