Brake Vibration

Sean · **Posted:** Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:15 pm

When I went in for my 12,000 oil change, the brakes had been vibrating for a couple thousand miles, so i had the dealer look at it. The ended up turning my rotors, and it was ok, then a few thousand miles later ~16,000 it began to happen again, now I am at 18K (18,021) and will be going to dealer for my oil change tomorrow, but the warranty on brakes is only til 12K. Will I have to pay for them to look at it again, or will it be no cost because it is a recurring problem?
Thanks, Sean.

Guest · **Posted:** Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:54 pm

did you properly bed your pads? if not, then you're pushing harder on the brakes than you should have to, creating excess heat, and prematurely warping your rotors.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 16, 2006 2:48 pm

I'll agree with thunderbird and say that you warped your rotors or your caliper slides are froozen already and in need of regreasing. Have the rear pads been adjusted? (Pulling up on the parking brake usually does the trick)

My front stocker's only lasted until 25K miles before I had to swap brake pads and new rotors. But I do a lot of city driving and towing so I am hard on the brakes.

Joe Jeeper · **Posted:** Mon Jan 16, 2006 10:04 pm

Pads are maintenance, rotors should be 3/36 warranty, I never heard of a 12K warranty? Joe

japracer4 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:44 pm

if you have rear drum brakes make sure they are cleaned and adjusted. It sounds like you are being hard on the fronts or something is going on in the rear. if the rears aren't up to snuff its making the fronts work even harder.

kevh · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:19 am

where are you guys getting "sounds like you are being hard on them"? sounds to me like they had to turn the rotors due to a problem at 12k that they couldnt blame on him (as in they are admitting it was a vehicle problem since they fixed it under warranty)

unless sean is running his liberty at a racetrack i would have to say it is due to faulty components or improper adjustment from the factory. especially since there are multiple TSBs out on the libby for brakes (especially the rear).

if we were talking about a motorcycle then yes, it is possible that the brakes were not worn in properly, but c'mon, we are talking about a jeep here. ever looked at the thickness of the rotors? do you realize how much heat it takes to warp a rotor? even when brand new (which the pads and rotors arent when we buy our vehicles, they have a couple stop and go miles on them) they brake components of a liberty are not that sensitive. if they are, then they need to be replaced as faulty.

how many moms or other regular drivers out there worry about making sure the pads and rotors get worn in properly when they buy a new vehicle? pretty much 0. and on any other vehicle how many of them have a problem, pretty much 0.

even if the rotors warped or the pads are shot, if they are at 16k, they need to be replaced as faulty. bottom line, it is a recurring problem that 1st occured befor any warranty had expired and i would try to get them to fix it at their cost (correctly this time)

Taz · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:39 am

Warped rotors are a problem for a lot of drivers, if your driving habits cause the rotors to heat up too much they will warp. Some manufacturers provide the first set free under warranty, some go the length of the bumper to bumper warranty, some do not provide any warranty on the rotors. I would ask the dealer to replace the rotors, not turn them. By driving habits I mean, City vs. Highway, frequent stops, how hard you brake, towing. If you have rear drums then the front are working harder and will heat up more. I have some friends that are married, She has to install cross drilled and slotted rotors on her cars to keep them from warping, he drives like a Granny, no brake issues, oh yeah they also work at the same place so they drive the same roads every day. If you are had on your rotors, think about cross drilled and slotted rotors, they retain less heat.

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 9:38 am

Guy's the rotors are very thick.... but they can still warp. That is why I was asking if he adjusted his rear disk's (no way he has drums with only 18K miles on the clock.) See this previous post for my thoughts on how brakes work and it might explain the basic's.

Being on my second set of rotors and my first set of ceramic pads, I can say that the stock stuff was OK at best.

Brake Topic = http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=2957&highlight=brakes

Sean · **Posted:** Wed Jan 18, 2006 3:17 pm

I went to the dealer, they looked at again.

Remember, they turned the rotors when i went in the first time at 12K.
They looked at it and said the front rotors are out of spec, they are at 40% in the front and 65% in the rear. (what the percentage measures, i do not know... but I cant imagine i used 60% of the rotors thickness in 10 months/18,000 miles)
They said it is not possible to turn twice.
They said they would purchase and install a new set of front (not rear) rotors for me.

As written on work order:
"Inspect brake system for wear and potential safety concerns.
Brake pulsation at highway speeds.
Front 40% rear 65% OK found front rotors out of spec.
R&R front rotors with new recheck ok"
Then it states my previous repair order number.

japracer4 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 21, 2006 12:21 am

If the stealer says they are out of spec then the rotors are at or too close to the minimum machining thickness. Every mfg. sets a minimum for brakes on every vehicle and everyone is different. The thinner the rotor gets the harder it is for it to disipate the heat. I had my original frt rotors until 45k and thats with drums in the rear. Its possible that something got into the casting when your rotors were made(i.e. dirt) causing them to warp or wear out prematurely. As far as rotors being to thick to warp is not true. If this happens again get yourself a nice set of cross-drilled rotors. I had a set of Brembo's on my acura and they were unbelievable.

Brake Vibration

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