UCA removal and re-installation.

huntbuggy · **Joined:** Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:24 pm **Posts:** 91

So all 4 nuts and bolts are loosened and set to remove. Thx for tips - the rear bolts are actually pretty easy with a deep 18mm socket, 1/2 impact elbow and an extension that puts you safely past the wheel well/brake lines but ahead of the power steering stuff on the driver's and AC on the passengers.

On inspection - how the heck do you slide the driver's front bolt out... the front brake line to the fitting through the body into the wheel well is right on top of the bolt!!!

Am I going to be messing with brakes and then have to plug as best I can on removal, then bleed front? Hope fitting is reliable and not leak if it's old and reconnection not sound... it does look like this fitting is the highest up in the system - what can you expect in terms of air in the system?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:33 pm

Inside the fenderwell you can access the 10mm bolt that hold that bulkhead block in place to give the lines enough movement to get that UCA bolt out.

huntbuggy · **Joined:** Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:24 pm **Posts:** 91

Right on, she moved after a bunch of brake cleaner and a little rattling. Just rested the bulkhead outside the well at the fitting for now until the new gear goes in... JBAs are in the mail.

Interesting how new bolts are a little different with straight retainers, might actually make re-installation or later tuning easier as more metal gets levered against the body.

Sorry if this painful step-by-step is boring anyone, just have to say the forums have been really good to me through this lift and other setbacks and needed repairs along the way. (thx again TJKJ - I can't give you enough props - especially the hammered black paint idea from your axle posts, great stuff for parts)

huntbuggy · **Joined:** Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:24 pm **Posts:** 91

One more control arm question...

When torquing the JBA balljoint nut, one set of instructions say 60ft/lbs like stock, the other says to simply tighten until the cotter pin hole lines up correctly.

Is it common practice to back them off to make use of the cotter pin or should they be torqued up so the joint stud stays seated and cannot have any play?

bunkermonkeycw · **Posted:** Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:56 pm

We are in the same boat, waiting for arms. All this is quite relevant. Thanks!

Xodius · **Posted:** Thu Apr 07, 2011 3:47 pm

I torqued up but on either this forum somewhere else or on another forum they talk about backing down just a tad. They also talk about before you torque to put load on the UBJ. Tom and TJKJ have talked about that. It prevents premature wear and breakage.

huntbuggy · **Joined:** Sun Dec 19, 2010 6:24 pm **Posts:** 91

Everything installed fine and just torqued to spec and one cotter pin lined up somewhat, the other I just bent upwards and is pretty secure.

If you've already got jacks under the LCAs when doing lift work like I did, just raise them and put all the weight of front of the vehicle (so just clearing the jackstands at frame a tad) when you install and the balljoint should install nice and firm, the stud seats really snug up to the neck like it should in the knuckle. (edit: when torquing up, apparently having the weight on up front or the Jeep on it's tires prevents preloading the bushings and preventing premature failure)

Really happy with the arms and JBA service. Marlin's a nice guy, super fast shipping even to Canada - only 6 days - even though your USPS mangled my box up something fierce.

UCA removal and re-installation.

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