ome stuff always gives more lift than the advertised 1.5", the HD's usually settle to 2"ish, i'd guess (and that's all i've got to go by) is that the MD's will settle to 1.5 - 1.75"
many of us use Conduit Nuts as a spacer guide when doing clevis lifts but you don't have to use anything other than a pry bar to hold the strut up when you re-tighten the clevis and you're talking about roughly 2 dollars in conduit nuts and a little electrical tape to hold them together nice and pretty
top plates, boiler makes some, you can make your own out of some cutting board etc
I'd go ahead and put 3 nuts in the clevis when ya put it back together and an extra iso or two in the rear and get it aligned, and let it settle and see where it goes from there, it'll keep you under 3" and probably settle to 2.25-2.5" or a roughly 21.5" flare to center cap measurement if I'm recalling right
my theory has always been if the rear is higher than the front by a small margin, you'll either like it like that.. or it'll be easier to unbolt one bolt and pull out an extra iso, than it is to unbolt a clevis or top plate (which is pretty easy anyway)