Tax Time=Locker?

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Sat Feb 04, 2006 11:01 pm

Well I am able to afford one more good sized mod before I leave for military service...I want a locker. The ARB is out of the question. A limited slip might be ok if the price is right and it is aggressive. I know the Powertrax NoSlip has great reviews with the 8.25 (yeah ferg we all know about your dana 35). If anyone has used the PowerTrax Noslip or a Limited slip let me know what you think. The majority of my wheeling is done in the swamps and deep mud pits of the upper mid west. I am not concerned with street manners. Do they make a Lock-Rite for the 8.25? I can't find one listed...

If you run a limited slip of some kind, is it adjustable like many of the clutch type LSD's are?

Where is the best price on the NoSlip or what did you pay for your traction adding device?

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:16 am

Ill go ahead and hi-jack his thread. I also want a no slip and would like to hear everything i can about it. I DO care about the way it handles on the street, noise and things, not actual going side ways handle.

Troysterr · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:26 am

Well, I've loved my Powertrax, and have no complaints about road manners, even on wet and icy roads. I do have Revo's, though.

If you're interested in improving offroad performance, I can't think of a cheaper, easier mod than the Powertrax, as long as you've got an automatic and an open Chrysler 8.25. If you've got an LSD, the installation is more difficult, so you may be just as well off getting one of the geared LSDs.

Hit my Links and Parts site (URL below) for pricing. I'm unaware of any bargains right now.

Troysterr · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:41 am

Wow, I'm glad I got my Powertrax when I did--they've really gone up in price.

If you want, you can try bidding on this one on eBay. Or you can "Buy Now" this one for $375, although several vendors (found on my Links and Parts site) have better prices than that.

KJ04 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:08 am

I've had my Power Trax No-Slip in for 14 Months now with no noises or any problems. I use the 75W140 gear oil in it.
For the price, performance and ease of instalation in an open rear, I don't see how you could even consider anything else.
The Lock rite is reccomended as an off-road only locker. Check their site!

the1jferg · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:22 am

I still have my No-slip because the ECTED is delayed. I have changed the fluid and taken it apart a few times just to check for damage. No damage, no metal on the magnets. I do believe my issue is mainly "tube flex"

My point: if mine ain't damaged, yalls never will be.

If certain things ain't troubling to ya, go with the noslip for the price. It is great offroad.

Believe it or not, I'm used to it now.

Awsome 4x2 :lol:

Troysterr · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 5:52 pm

the1jferg wrote:

My point: if mine ain't damaged, yalls never will be.

Yeah, they're very durable. I talked to a guy at the Labor Day Campout in Moab last year and he's had a Powertrax in his Suzuki Samurai for like 5 or 10 years or something, and it still works great.

I really hope mine lasts, because I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to cut that thing out if I ever have to replace it. I had to force the c-clip in when I installed it, so it won't just fall out. (If I had to do it over again, I would grind the c-clip down a bit so that it slips in and out easily.)

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 10:22 pm

I hate C-clips....all axles should be full floating!!!!

the1jferg · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2006 11:17 pm

Joe said:

"I hate C-clips....all axles should be full floating!!!!"

He meant to say: "I hate C-clips....all axles should be full floating like the1jferg's Dana 35 !!!!" :lol:

Maybe the "C-Clip" is the magic touch that makes yalls No-slips so quiet.

It would explain some marks on the ends of my axle shafts.

krazz1e · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:11 am

Powertrax has been great for me. It's solid offroad, easy to use and onroad you adjust your driving so you don't peel out all the time... really though not very noticable in the back.

Get it you won't regreat it.

Straight6Jeff · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:03 pm

I have run detroit locers in every vehicle I have ever owned....except the LIberty. I tried the Detroit Tru-trac on this one. I really like it. 75% of my time will be highway, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I do like the true track. Beefy unit, like all Detroit Pieces. I will say though, there were some issues with the Mopar replacement ring gear bolts. The new bots were .025 wider at the shoulder. I had to massage the carrier holes with a burr. Also, you have to use new bolts. The factory bolts are left thread, fine thread. It is also advisable to start all of the bolts, then press the ring ger on to the carrier. Drawing the gear on with the bolts is not a great idea.

Also, I would reccommend only using the Mopar ring gear bolts. The bolts I got in the bearing kit were trash....meaning, the threads pulled with only 35 lb/ft of torque applied. The bearing kit was a touted as a high quality kit. Had Timken Bearing, but junk bolts.

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:21 pm

the1jferg wrote:

Joe said:

"I hate C-clips....all axles should be full floating!!!!"

He meant to say: "I hate C-clips....all axles should be full floating like the1jferg's Dana 35 !!!!" :lol:

Maybe the "C-Clip" is the magic touch that makes yalls No-slips so quiet.

It would explain some marks on the ends of my axle shafts.

Um ferg-I think the Dana 35 is a semi floating axle...Full floaters have bolts around the hub so you can remove the axle shafts with out taking the cracking the diff cover...The real advantage is that they are a lot stronger (no weight is applied to the axle shaft like a c-clip or semifloating). I have yet to see a full floater on anything stock smaller then a 3/4 ton truck...

the1jferg · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:01 pm

Does semi floater take the wheels off, outter drum, let the brakes hang, loose the 4 bolts, and slide the axle out???

Have an outer bearing on the outer end of the shaft (which I have replaced), no inner bearings?

Yeah, thats mine alright. Remember, dana went back to a Non-C and larger ring and pinion on mine.

I do crack the cover cause I get off watching the shaft slide into the no-slip and changing the lubee-dube. The no-slip has the "C" slots, I just don't use them cause I got no "C" grooves in my axle shaft, only splines.

You'll be happy with the no-slip.

Awsome 4x2 :lol:

ManicMechanicJoe · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:40 pm

whoa i geuss you learn something new everyday. sorry for doubting you

DaveKJ02 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:09 pm

Just how much does the powertrak affect onroad driving in slick conditions? Noticeably? I'm considering picking one up used and talking with the wife, she's concerned about the road handling. I was leaning for a selectable locker anyway, but this deal suddenly popped up. It's her DD and my weekend toy until we find her something she'll be willing to give the KJ up for. If only I drove it, I would buy it in a hearbeat, but with her toting the kids around I see her point.

From what I read, it seems like your ok with a lighter foot, but she says no matter what she still spins the wheels in slick conditions with the GY RT/S.

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:21 pm

The first time I hit ice after having the Powertrax installed, I slid completely around. Just don't goose the gas on ice and its all right.

Don't use Mobil 1 gear lube. After a few months mine got really noisy. I ended up cleaning it out and putting in Murray's 85W140 gear lube in and now its pretty quite.

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

DaveKJ02 wrote:

Just how much does the powertrak affect onroad driving in slick conditions? Noticeably? I'm considering picking one up used and talking with the wife, she's concerned about the road handling. I was leaning for a selectable locker anyway, but this deal suddenly popped up. It's her DD and my weekend toy until we find her something she'll be willing to give the KJ up for. If only I drove it, I would buy it in a hearbeat, but with her toting the kids around I see her point.

From what I read, it seems like your ok with a lighter foot, but she says no matter what she still spins the wheels in slick conditions with the GY RT/S.

I has a tendency to spin the inside tire turning, because that is the only one that is powered in a turn. However, since only one rear wheel slips, you do not slide as much because the other rear wheels hold your rear end in place. Obviously if you stay on the gas, it will end up locking up the rear and then you will fishtail for sure.

I would recommend staying away from a lock-rite type locker if you care about road manners at all. The aussie locker people mention is essentially the same design as the lock-rite and will still be darn hard on the road. The no-slip has "active spacers" and syncros to keep both wheel from locking in a turn. However, if you could careless about road manners then you might wanna look at a lock-rite to save a buck or two, but I would not recommend it at all. It will be a beast on the road. Anytime the drivetrain is under a load you essentially have a spool. The extra 150 bucks or so is well worth it. I've had experience with both. A no-slip in the KJ and an lock-rite type in my CJ.

the1jferg · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:51 pm

Joe, I don't know exactly what I got, just how the axle comes out. It still sucks. I don't believe its a full floater though. Just a semi with no C's

Joe would probably be happy with the locker, DaveKJ02 would be better with a True-trac or ARB as his wife has concerns, and they are valid concerns.

Joe, goodluck with your military service. Thanks

EDDO, Does your no-slip unlock in a turn or curves under power? Mine is locked unless I let off the gas first or start from a stop.

Before I learned to drive it, if I took off hard say left into traffic, when I straighten her out it would engage so hard it would almost throw me into the other lane. So I don't straighten from a turn under HARD power anymore, I just let it do its thing and drive like a grandpa.

You folks know how I cursed the no-slip, I gotta tell you. I think part of the problem was I was a very aggressive driver. I can honestly say that the no-slip has made me more patient and stuff. I don't see my wife reaching for the "handle" anymore. :wink:

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

the1jferg wrote:

EDDO, Does your no-slip unlock in a turn or curves under power? Mine is locked unless I let off the gas first or start from a stop.

Yes it unlocks in a turn under power. You can take entrance ramps all day long and winding mountain roads w/o a problem. If you read the manual included with the unit it describes how it works pretty well. If yours will not unlock in a turn under power then something is wrong with the unit (you probably know that already) Also are you sure you have the no-slip and not the lock-rite unit? Both look quite similar. However, I'm sure you already checked, but a lockrite will keep it locked as long as you give it power. Even in a turn. I had an aussie locker (same as lock-rite) in my CJ and it was a beast.

the1jferg · **Posted:** Tue Feb 07, 2006 10:08 am

Here is the Manual for Joe and Dave KJ02. It recommends every operator read it.

http://www.richmondgear.com/0002pdfs/8221001.pdf

http://www.drivetrain.com/noslipusersguide.html

I would say the book kinda underplays the characteristics, and provides a little double talk according to things I've read and talking with Johnny Brown at Richmond Gear. "Short driveline syndrome"

If you drive like a EURO-Rally driver, you'll notice it.

I'm sure mine ain't the loc-rite

"You may feel torque transfer from both rear wheels to one, and back again. Should you wish to minimize the effects of torque transfer, take turns under less throttle, and make throttle changes more gradually to allow for the smoothest possible operation."

In a turn it will alternate between inner and outer wheel too depending on your gas pedal usage.

I feel, There is force holding the teeth together, If the teeth are engaged it ain't gonna disengage till you take the load off turn or no turn. If it disengages under constant power you will feel it and hear it. You would not want that.

When you do donuts, are both your tires slinging mud, mine do until I let off the gas, then my inner becomes the slinger until I turn the other way.

If I hit a ramp under power, mine will stay engaged untill I let off the gas. Thats why I let off the gas as I enter the turn or halfway thru it. I guess it depends on how tight the ramp curve is and how much pedal you are using.

On tight winding mountain roads mine is in a state of constant engage/disengage.

I'm begining to love mine after altering all of my driving habits. Generally if a vehicle survives 2 years with my PREVIOUS driving habits, it will last me 7+ with little maintenance.

You either love it or hate it. I do think Joe will love it.

Tax Time=Locker?

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