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| how to remove the rear drive shaft? http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5612 |
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| Author: | krazz1e [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 10:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | how to remove the rear drive shaft? |
Need to change my u-joints the side to the diff is going at 33k, anyway i see it's a simple unbolt on that side (to the diff) but I can't figure out how to take it off the transfer case side. Please help. |
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| Author: | krazz1e [ Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
someone has got to know.... rear driveshaft where it meets the x-fer case, how to change the u-joint out?? do you just do it while it's attach and knock it out.... |
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| Author: | the1jferg [ Tue Feb 07, 2006 12:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Krazzle, Evidently something is different, I don't have a 4X4 so I probably can't help ya. |
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| Author: | ARBSeth [ Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Gimme a call man, I'll hook you up. A little long to type... |
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| Author: | rocketjocky [ Tue Feb 07, 2006 9:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I did my rear u-joint with the front still attached. I beleive that you just pry the clamp off the boot and the shaft just slides out. |
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| Author: | dkcase [ Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
rocketjocky wrote: I did my rear u-joint with the front still attached. I beleive that you just pry the clamp off the boot and the shaft just slides out.
That's right. I think that you need a tool to re-tighten the clamp, so I would replace it with a nylon wire tie. I would also lubricate the shaft with some light grease before sliding it back together; on mine, I get a clunk sometimes which I think is some binding there. I will loosen it one of these days to lube it. I don't have u-joint problems yet 60k+ ; shouldn't be required at 33,000 miles. |
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| Author: | rocketjocky [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 12:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
mine lasted just over 76000 miles |
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| Author: | Troysterr [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 2:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Both of my u-joints were shot, and I just turned over 40K. Yes, to remove the driveshaft, you just loosen (or cut off) the rear boot clamp, and the shaft just slides out. I am planning on replacing the metal boot clamp, but I really can't see why you couldn't just use a nylon wire tie--they make really beefy ones that would probably last a couple of years at least. |
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| Author: | kickit_in4wheel [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 2:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Where did you get your u-joints, and who makes them? I looked them up today at Autozone for my `02 4X4, and the computer asked if what size the outside lockup is (3.219 or 3.622). I have no idea what this means, so I didn't know which to get. Is there a particular brand to look for or avoid? Rick |
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| Author: | ManicMechanicJoe [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 4:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
look for something greasable and grease it every oil change. I believe the outside lockup measurement is the caps on the U-joints. Perhaps the 242 and 231 case have different output yokes? |
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| Author: | krazz1e [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the replies. Yeah I am shocked they are gone at 33k but I can see separation with the rubber ring on 2 sides of the u-joint to the diff. I will take this as an opportunity to get some good pictures and document how to do it. I am going to use greasable ones as they last longer if they are greased and with a grease gun it is very easy. I ordered the PRECISION Part #280 which are suppose to be super strength greaseables. $14 a pop. Got them from rockauto.com autozone or checker did not carry any, NAPA does but I don't have one near me. |
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| Author: | Troysterr [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 8:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Precision makes good ones. I chose Spicer and got them for about the same price (see my Links and Parts site). |
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