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 Post subject: installing a lower ball joint....another long essay by me...
PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:55 am 
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hey ya'll....I swapped out a lower ball joint on the KJ this past weekend....I know some guys here have done this job and already know whats involved....I've been reading the topics here and waiting for someone to describe the process....I did the work myself so I thought I'd tell the story....this'll bore you to tears unless you're interested in this kind of thing....I took a few pictures to share....

for a few months there's been some discussion here about the ball joints on the KJ jeeps....the scoop is basically that the factory lower joints are seeing a high failure rate....some guys are getting warranty replacement without a lot of hassle from their dealers....I think some others here aren't having as good luck with that....I'm still under warranty but I hadn't replaced a ball joint before so I kinda wanted to do it myself....and avoid the down time at a dealer...I figured the lesson would be worth the effort and expense....

Image
the passenger side lower ball joint attached to the lower control arm....at far left center is the tie rod end....

the tire/wheel is mounted to a large, oddly shaped cast steering knuckle that pivots around the upper and lower ball joints....these joints experience a lot of forces from the weight of the jeep and the things a moving vehicle runs over....the ball and socket design is used to create the necessary steering flexibility in a independent front suspension....when they start to go bad, you'll usually notice it when you hit a bump....if one were to completely fail while driving, you could possibly lose the wheel and tear up a lot of things....our forum moderators have made a point of warning us about all this....

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looking from the back side....the tin heat shield on the far right....

factory set up on the KJ joint has the stud pointing down through the lower control arm....some speculate that there's a force pulling the joint apart in this design....jeep retro fit a tin shield to protect the ball joint from brake rotor heat....some say they need to be grease servicable....I don't know why these joints fail early....

Image
this picture shows the upper control arm with the suspension at full drop....the joint boot is close to the coil spring....

just to compare, the upper ball joint is a integral part of the upper control arm....if this joint goes bad, there are aftermarket sources for replacement of the whole arm....some of the lift kits being sold put the rubber boot of the upper joint in contact with the coil spring when the suspension falls to full drop....otherwise, there hasn't been the same concern with the upper set-up....

-----------------------

I rotate my tires (all 5) around the time I change the oil and the past two or three times I've taken a minute to check the ball joint movement....my KJ's an '04 sport (4x4) with about 28000 miles....

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jack the jeep up under the control arm....place a lever under the tire...
Image
pry the tire up and note any small movement at the lower ball joint...

there shouldn't be any noticable movement when you pry the tire upward....on mine, the driver side has been solid....no movement....but the passenger side had a little slop that I noticed the first time I checked it....I couldn't tell you if it was 1/16" or .020 or whatever....it's more of a combination of seeing, hearing, and feeling....I could tell the ball moved in the socket slightly compared to the other side....I've put a coil lift on mine and then later pulled the front differential to install a limited slip....so I've had the front apart in my garage a few times....you have to knock the ball joints loose when you do those kind of jobs so that might be a reason one seemed to be going bad....also, I've tried to ride the forest trails whenever I have the chance....the local jeep club usually takes every wet path they can find so I didn't know if all the mud and water got to it....anyway, I've been driving it without worrying too much but I figured it would eventually get worse....so I decided to change it myself and learn something new....

I'm only shade-tree qualified for this job....although it isn't rocket science, a lot of jobs like this one are much easier done with specialty tools....I have a pretty good tool box and a refrigerator in the garage but not much more....I've never built a custom control arm or wrenched on a 1/4 mile nova....sometimes I have to call guys like that when I get in over my head....so you have an idea of my questionable qualifications....I'll throw in everything I can think of to help anyone who might want to learn something too...even though I was only concerned with one side, I was going to do the lower on both....but I never got started on the good side....


--------------------------

just in case you haven't done a lot of this stuff before, here's a few basic descriptions that might help....
Image

in addition to the upper and lower ball joints, also connected to the knuckle is the steering tie rod....the tie rod end is also a ball joint....the knuckle turns when the steering rack pushes/pulls....all three joints are attached the same way....a tapered stud fits a precise tapered hole and is fastened with a locking nut....the knuckle rides up and down with the two control arms....this movement is dampened with a hydraulic strut in a coil spring attached to the lower control arm....on 4x4 models, the cv-joint axle shaft passes through a sealed bearing in the center of the knuckle, fastened with a large nut....there's a sway bar link fastened to the lower control arm with a bolt and washer/nut....and finally the brake rotor positions on the five wheel studs and the brake caliper assembly is attached to the knuckle with two bolts....you have to deal with all of these components of the front suspension to complete a lower ball joint swap....most every fastener is metric size except the wheel studs (3/4")....you need wrenches and sockets that include 10, 15, 18, 21mm and probably some others....and you need some other tools that I'll get to.....

I rest the jeep on good car stands and I leave my floor jack underneath as a safety support....I lift both sides so the jeep isn't leaning....I don't like to get comfortable with my legs or head underneath the jeep....you have to work under there and I trust myself, but safety has to be the most important thing you think about....

my KJ is 4x4 so there are front axles....the outer axle cv-joint body is right above the lower ball joint....on a 4x2 model there would be no front axle and it may be easier to do this job....I don't know....but on mine, you can't remove the bad ball joint without taking the knuckle off the jeep....

so pull a tire off and start taking things apart....there's probably a "best" sequence and I doubt I did it that way....I disconnect the sway bar link at both ends just to get it out of the way....

Image

next is the tie rod end....take the nut off the bottom and separate the tie rod end from the knuckle boss....the tapered stud fits tight in the knuckle like a nail in a board....it will not just come out....a pickle fork tool to pry it apart will damage the rubber boot....they make a special jawed puller that causes the least stress to the tie rod end....but you can knock it out like a nail if you're careful not to mushroom the tip of the stud....after I got it loose, I left it installed to help stabilize the steering knuckle....

Image



Image
the brake rotor is ready to slip off the wheel studs....there's a star washer on the yellow stud....
the caliper is tied to the upper arm....the rubber brake hose is safe from damage....

there are two bolts on the inside of the knuckle that mount the disc brake caliper and brake pads....hang the caliper up and out of the way with no strain on the rubber brake hose....don't let anyone press the brake pedal while this is off the rotor and it will be pretty easy to slip it back together later....the brake rotor is not really fastened to the hub unless the wheel is mounted....there may be a star washer on the wheel studs that prevent the rotor from sliding off so you have to remove them....you don't really need to replace them later....

the large axle nut in the center of the wheel stud pattern has to come loose....I bet it's metric size but I use a 1 7/16-12 point socket on a 3/4" breaker bar and a pry bar against the wheel studs....it's a big fastener and will be pretty tight....my socket fits pretty good...I just wanted to get this loose while the knuckle was still solid with the ball joints...

Image

I also pulled the bolt out of the lower strut clevis mount so that the lower control arm could swing down when I get around to the lower ball joint....

the upper ball joint nut is 21mm...back it off about half way....the upper ball joint is easier to knock loose because the neck of the knuckle is a good place to strike a hammer...you're basically hammering the "board off of the nail" (if that makes sense)....leave the nut on the stud so when it breaks free, the knuckle will only drop a short distance....the tip of the ball joint stud is 10mm hex....after the stud is loosened, you may have to wrench this tip while you back the large nut off....the upper arm will probably swing up but you'll have to manhandle the setup to get the stud out of the hole....

Image
Image


Image
as soon as I get this nut off, I'll put my bottle jack under the tip of the joint stud.....

so now we get to the bad lower ball joint....they make special tools to press these joint studs out more effectively....using these tools would be the way it should be done if you're paying someone who ought to own them....but for a guy like me, it takes awhile to collect any of these....I have a bottle jack under the lower control arm....I move it around as necessary to support the arm or the tip of the ball joint stud....with the nut backed off about half way and the jack under the stud, I use a hammer and large dull punch to shock the control arm downward....you have to create this shock near the ball joint...it won't work to strike the control arm out towards the middle where you can easily swing the hammer....it may seem that the joint stud doesn't want to come loose....it's tight....just understand that you're trying to move the control arm down while keeping the knuckle and ball joint stationary with the bottle jack....hit it harder....(sorry I don't have a good photo of this step)....


take the previously loosened axle nut off the end of the splined axle end....when I last had this all apart for the front locker project, the steering knuckle slipped pretty easily off the axle shaft....this time it had begun to sieze up around the machined radius at the ends of the splines....a puller tool would be useful to attach to the five stud hub and work against the end of the axle....I don't have one so I pulled with one hand and carefully whacked the end of the axle stub....I can't say I recommend banging on the axle....but that's how I got it off....just don't f up the axle splines and threads....after I got it off I took a piece of emory cloth and cleaned up the surface corrosion....I put a film of bearing grease on it when I reinstalled it....

Image
the back side of the steering knuckle....the dark ring in the center of the sealed bearing is where it started to sieze up....
in just a minute, I'm gonna get a hammer and whack the ball joint stud tip to try and knock it out....so I opened a cold beer...

so far, so good....

------------------------------

Image
Image

I have to get the bad ball joint out of the knuckle....the rubber boot that seals the ball/socket has to come off...there are a couple spring rings that are easy to pry off with a screwdriver....the joint body is a press-fit assembly in the bottom of the knuckle and you can't always just knock it out...since that's a shade tree method, that was my plan....drive the stud tip out like a nail with a big hammer....I laid the knuckle on the floor and held the stud steady with pliers....with a few good blows, I had hoped I could see some movement of the joint body....but all I got was a slight mushrooming of the stud tip....I thought I was hitting it pretty hard....of course this method is going to further damage the ball joint....

if things had gone as planned, this next picture is what you would expect to see...
Image

there's been some talk here about a ball joint press tool kit....OTC Tools is a quality manufacturer of automotive specialty tools....a couple weeks ago I did a little bird-dogging on the internet and found a ebay auction of OTC tool kit number 7249....it's a hefty c-clamp with some different fittings that's used to press the ball joint body in or out of the knuckle....I bought it for 70 bucks plus shipping and it arrived within a few days....it's a good tool that doesn't work for the liberty....the c-clamp isn't big enough to span the ball joint and knuckle....so Troyster, don't buy the OTC 7249 kit....in fact, I found afterwards that they now make a tool kit specifically for the liberty and late model grand cherokee....it's a new part number OTC 8031....it has a bigger c-clamp span and some different fittings....

the tool that I purchased....
Image

the new OTC tool that I'd like own....
Image

click here for jeep KJ tool kit

I couldn't find a online vendor with this part number priced so I called a local tool jobber and the counter guy called OTC for me....the kit is on national backorder and he said it's priced "about 400 bucks"....ouch....if I was a jeep line mechanic, I can justify it....but for now, I'm just thinking about it....I told the counter guy that probably every mac tool and snap-on truck in the U.S. is trying to get this tool kit for the jeep dealers service dept....if any of you guys finds one in stock, let me know....

I also had looked around locally to purchase a couple replacement ball joints....I can get treated pretty well where I used to work but they didn't carry the ball joints for the liberty and would have to order them....the price didn't sound to good either so I told them I wanted to check the internet....I got two MOOG brand K3199 lower ball joints from RockAuto.com for $54 each....they arrived in a couple days....

Image
Image

so I couldn't make the OTC tool fit the job and I hadn't gotten the old joint out but I hadn't ruined anything yet....it was sunday afternoon and I promised gail I would be finished before supper....and she was going to be out of town starting monday morning....if I f up here, I have a problem for a couple days....if I had a buddy hanging around my refrigerator, he could say "why don't you hit it with a hammer a few more times"....I really didn't want to have to buy a replacement steering knuckle if I screwed up....so I bailed out and rode up to a pepboys up the street....they have their service bays open on sunday....it was about 2:00 when I took the steering knuckle to the service counter....jose was pretty cool and wasn't confused when I gave him my story....I asked if they could press a bad ball joint out and press my in-hand new one in....while I wait...for cheap....I got two yes's and something else....so I said deal and he called pete to the counter....we actually got on pretty well....the service writer said "an '04 model and you already need a ball joint....man!..."

so I've got the KJ apart myself and this part ought to be easy....it was a friendly conversation so I said "look, I don't want to bust you guys but this is what I need....I need the ball joint pressed now and I don't want to wait around...I need to know if you have the skills to do this without screwing it up...."

"oh yeah...pete's a certified mechanic...no problem"....

now pete's gotta stop the tune-up he's doing and I know how a business has to catch a fish like me when they can....after agreeing to 40 bucks labor (don't laugh) I followed pete out the "no customers" door....when I was younger, I worked several years in a automotive machine shop/parts jobber operation....sometimes a simple job takes a little more time or you have to be a little more forceful....so it's just not cool to crowd a guy who's working on your stuff....I stepped outside the open bay and watched from about 40 feet and pete didn't seem to mind...he laid the knuckle on the floor and knocked the old ball joint out with a healthy ball-peen and a couple big swings....the same method I was trying....I guess I loosened it up.... :P

I showed pete that there is a "correct" postion for the new ball joint body installation so that there will be access to a grease fitting for future service,....he pulled a big and bad c-clamp press out of his tool box but then he spent about 15 minutes trying to figure out a combination of sleeves and plates to fit the KJ knuckle and the replacement joint....once he got something to fit, he turned the screw with an impact wrench and he was done....he saw me watching the whole time so he just waved me in to pick-up the knuckle and the old ball joint....I told him I was planning to just knock the old joint out like he did but I quit on it....he said that method doesn't always work and then you have to set up the press.....I told him I bought a tool kit but it didn't fit....he said yeah, he had to improvise with what he had....I could have gotten him to do both knuckles right then and the charge would be more reasonable...but I hadn't taken the other side apart....people are often friendly when you pay them well.....

there aren't nearly as many locations on today's vehicles that take grease service....the factory ball joint is a sealed unit that can't be serviced....the old joint still had grease so the failure is probably due to load or my beating on it in previous projects....the MOOG joint is designed with a grease fitting and you have to pump some grease into it....(so you need a grease gun)....I did this while it was on my table....I don't think it would bother me to put a factory joint back in but I know guys on this site are recommending the MOOG product....it has a larger profile where it rests on the knuckle so it crowds the cv body....and the grease fitting could get banged up on the trail so I guess I'll carry some spares....MOOG is a Federal Mogul brand....we'll see if they're more durable....Federal Mogul is a engine bearing product line that expanded with aquisitions....other products in their family include Champion plugs, Fel-Pro gaskets, Sealed Power piston rings and engine parts, Bower/BCA bearings, National oil seals, and many others...I sold auto parts for about 15 years and these brands are all well regarded in the industry....

Image

back at home, I fooled around with the OTC tool to see if it would have been possible to install the new joint myself....if I had some scrap pipe and steel plate, I might have been able to figure something out....but I don't really know....I put the knuckle back on....the axle stub through the center....the upper joint stud through the top...the new lower joint stud through the bottom control arm....the lower clevis bolt in....the tie rod end....the brake rotor and the brake caliper....the sway bar link....about a one beer process....

Image
the joint body is positioned deliberately to get easy access to the grease fitting....

by now, I was running late so I decided to wait on the driver side replacement....I want to be able to do the whole job....it isn't really complicated....I just hadn't tried it before....if I had taken a few more hammer swings, I could have removed the old joint at home....so I'll work on a process to install without assistance the other new one....

I could have made this essay a little more flattering by just describing the removal of the knuckle and then saying I had planned on a trip to a garage to have the joint pressed....no wasted money on tools, no foolishness....but I thought it would be more fun to tell the truth....I didn't take the camera to pepboys and some of my pictures didn't come out so good so I'm missing for some parts of the job....

drove it to work the past few days....everything's good....hope I get a A...

I'm broke again so it'll be peanut butter sandwiches for lunch for awhile....got a really cool elvis lunchbox.... 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 8:47 am 
Very nice write up. Thanks for all the effort. I installed the same front mount hitch that you have, but on my '05 with the redesigned front bumper, and I wish I had documented it like you just did for the ball joint replacement.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 8:55 am 
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I read it all and enjoyed it. I have two sets to install soon and now I know to start looking at my combo of tools to make sure I can install it w/ what I have. I recently bought a 20 ton hydraulic shop press and a c-clamp tool like yours, but now I am wondering if I can make it work. :roll:
Now I also know how many beers I will need on hand when tackling this project. :shock:

Good job Steve! :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:47 am 
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Nice write up Camper, I aways enjoy your stories. Maybe in the future you could compile a small manual and market it.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:29 am 
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I just happened to install one of my Moogs last night. What a pain in the butt. Even though I had help from the mechanic that teaches the class, I managed to cut the boot on one of the joints and pop the grease seal (or whatever it's called--the little button on top) on the other one. Luckily I was able to swap boots to get one good one.

This is NOT a particularly difficult job...if you know what you're doing. I managed to mash all the threads I got my hands on, ruined a joint, and took almost 3 1/2 hours to complete...and the class was only 2 1/2 hours long. Just embarassing. Too bad I didn't have your write-up with me, Camper. :roll:

Oh, well, the second one will go much faster.

BTW, the boots on mine are black...that's an interesting shade of blue you got. 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 1:17 pm 
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Mind telling me where you got those joints camper? Id say jeepin al? How much were they? I may go ahead and buy some incase he stops selling them, that way ill already have them. Im the kinda guy that likes to stock up on spare parts. :)

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 Post subject: Re: installing a lower ball joint....another long essay by m
PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:03 pm 
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camper wrote:
I also had looked around locally to purchase a couple replacement ball joints....I can get treated pretty well where I used to work but they didn't carry the ball joints for the liberty and would have to order them....the price didn't sound to good either so I told them I wanted to check the internet....I got two MOOG brand K3199 lower ball joints from RockAuto.com for $54 each....they arrived in a couple days....

I got mine from Amazon.com for $51 each, including shipping, but they're out of stock now. From RockAuto, they'll be $60 shipped (to a commercial address), still not bad.

If you want to make absolutely sure that you get the right thing, you can get them from JeepinAl for a few bucks more.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:29 pm 
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Great write up again Steve!

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:49 am 
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Good info. Thanks for taking the time. I'll support Al and my mechanic.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:32 pm 
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Hi, i made it myself with the help from my mechanic.

Image


After it needed to adjust the toe-in...

You made the same adjustment?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 7:21 pm 
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andrea70 wrote:
Hi, i made it myself with the help from my mechanic.

After it needed to adjust the toe-in...

You made the same adjustment?


You made what yourself?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:16 am 
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I've changed the original Lower Ball Joint with MOOG ones...

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 3:58 am 
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great writeup, thanks so much.


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I haven't made any adjustment for what looks like the common toe-in problem. Some where on the outside of the front tires. How would i go about doing that?

Thanks!
Mitch

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:47 pm 
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Awesome post. Thanks for pix and details.


How many Budweisers did it take to install?

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There is no way I could have gotten them out without that kit you showed. Mine were in there good. :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: installing a lower ball joint....another long essay by m
PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 12:46 am 
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Does anyone know how to get the pictures to work on this tutorial???

Can someone help???


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 Post subject: Re: installing a lower ball joint....another long essay by m
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 Post subject: Re: installing a lower ball joint....another long essay by m
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Location: Clayton, North Carolina
JL Rockies wrote:
A flux capacitor, a DeLorean and a closed road.


:ROTFL: :ROTFL: :ROTFL:

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Zack A.
2005 Rocky Mountain Ed.
W4ZWA


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 Post subject: Re: installing a lower ball joint....another long essay by m
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:40 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:38 am
Posts: 1
very cool updates.


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