Where can I find a replacement??? Can't find it at rock auto....

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Civilisation exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice. -Durant

Dealership
other ones don't hold up as long I've found
or at least not for me

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Really? How much do they get for them? Do you recommend going with the whole setup or just replacing the ball joint on top?

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Civilisation exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice. -Durant

Do not get anything but Mopar from the dealership..... Trust us! Plus there is a 12 month warranty
Get the whole unit. They are about 250 plus tax..... unless you get a discount....

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2000 Cherokee Trail Hawk
3.5" R.E Superflex Lift, R.E Quick Disconnects, R.E Rear Driveshaft, SYE, OME Steering Stabilizer, ARB Diff Covers, JW Speaker Black Heated Headlights, Mickey Thompson 16x8 wheels, 245/75r16 Toyo Open Country AT's, 15 lb Powertank

2003 KJ Sport (BLACK) 230,000+Miles (Decommissioned)

Was also thinking of doing this as the bushings are really rough ... but balljoint is holding up (knocks wood). Is this too good to be true? It lists the OE Mopar part #

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-in ... 52088901AD

If it's aftermarket then forget it. Thought maybe it was missing bushings and joint and don't have time/patience to press that crap in. If not then this is the best price I've found anyplace. http://www.moparonlineparts.com where I usually get my stuff real cheap is almost $300.

The other thing is some parts interchange list the 52088901AD for 2003-2007 and only the superceded 52088901AB is for my 2002... wonder if there's any difference or just an old out of date part number still out there. (02 FSM does list 52088901AB but it's from 02 of course) This can probably wait until I do the exhaust system - probably a good time as the rear will be way up anyways and without the pipes and hangers in more room to work on the passenger's anyhow...

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Huntbuggy
02 KJ Sport Silver - 2.5" OME/Bilstein lift, ARB bumper, JBA 4.5s, full factory skids, RS diff cover, rear SuperBumper on Reese 2", 245/75R16 on Cragars

Maybe a Good time for a 4-Link setup?????

I think a 4-Link is overkill for most of us, and pretty expensive even if you built it yourself might still be a big bill compared to just getting a new boomerang.

The one from JBA had me really curious and I guess would be great for someone going higher or who busted the balljoint mount. Would probably be better with a higher lift than most of us, but the old "one thing leads to another" Jeep rule... that leads to replacing the lower arms, custom shock and spring job etc..etc...

http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-KJ_Tri_Angul ... k-735.aspx

Wonder what kind of welding job or trussing setup most gear like above would need?

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Huntbuggy
02 KJ Sport Silver - 2.5" OME/Bilstein lift, ARB bumper, JBA 4.5s, full factory skids, RS diff cover, rear SuperBumper on Reese 2", 245/75R16 on Cragars

Buy a piece of 2x6 steel use a plasma cutter to remove the seam side, pattern your pumpkin cut out what you just patterned. Now weld it too your axle tubes, Now cut the two sides at a angle out to the end of your tubes. Cap the top with 1/4" steel. Build you upper mounts from scrap 2x6 40 degrees of separation. If you had the proper tools and fab knowledge 5-6 Hours in your own garage. Build your arms from 2x2 heavy wall square tube I think it's 1 3/4" round tube 4 pieces 2" long welded to the ends, Most people don't need a Johny Joint just buy 4-Solid bushings for a Grand Cherokee they're dirt cheap. More 2x6 Arm mounts welded too the body. If you have some fab skills it will work a lot better and ride better than that Tri Link. I'll post some pictures of this soon my buddy just did this too his Grand Cherokee. If you can fab why not?

for my wifes DD, no lift, with over 160k on it.....I don't think the rubber bushings are worn out? The rear end feels loose and it's not the LCAs....asuuming it's the top balljoint thingy. why not just replace that???

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Civilisation exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice. -Durant

with 160,000 miles all of the bushings more than likely if not worn out are weak, just as easy to replace the whole arm. Its a 20-30 minute job to replace -vs- remove press out the bushings/ ball joint etc and replace.

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

So update on this super deal. It is indeed an aftermarket replacement made by Crown Automotive - which explains the price. It comes with their bushings and balljoint.

I think I'll take my lumps domestically and buy the original Mopar here when it's needed. (Too much shipping huge stuff to Canada anyhow and trust the OE balljoint and bushings).

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Huntbuggy
02 KJ Sport Silver - 2.5" OME/Bilstein lift, ARB bumper, JBA 4.5s, full factory skids, RS diff cover, rear SuperBumper on Reese 2", 245/75R16 on Cragars

So the Crown part isn't going to hold up as well?? I thought they made good stuff, no?

I guess I could just bite the bullet and put the mopar one in....gotta find someone to get me a discount though!


How is the ball joint connected the the pumpkin?? One big bolt?

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Civilisation exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice. -Durant

When mine is ready to come out I'll likely go MOPAR... haven't heard great things about the aftermarket bushings and joint.

The balljoint has only one pinch bolt, remove that and a prybar or puller should to the trick. (Don't mess with the BJ bracket bolts unless you like trouble). The two bolts in the body mounts are a bit of a PITA - but it looks like if you move your tailpipe a tad and/or get the heat shield down enough for good clearance should be fine. The axle should be supported well and don't allow too much downwards flex because it can preload the bushings way too much or even damage them.

Don't know where you're located but if dealer's is too $$$ check the online MOPAR retailers like:

http://www.moparonlineparts.com/ (ships from NY)
http://www.wyckoffchryslerparts.com/ (ships from NJ)
http://www.wholesalemopar.com/ (ships from FL)

Have dealt with all of them now and have yet to beat prices I get through one or the other. I'm in Canada and even to here shipping has been a-okay and fast.

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Huntbuggy
02 KJ Sport Silver - 2.5" OME/Bilstein lift, ARB bumper, JBA 4.5s, full factory skids, RS diff cover, rear SuperBumper on Reese 2", 245/75R16 on Cragars

Crawl under the vehicle and have someone rock the vehicle front to back hard and watch for movement on the upper ball joint. If it is worn, the whole rearend will rock or twist. I replaced the ball joint only to find out that it still rocked back and forth. Then I pulled the cast steel ball joint bracket and discovered the problem. The ball joint pinch bolt must not have been torqued properly from the factory. It was a mess! I ended up plunge milling it out to clean up the hole then made a bushing to drop in and bring the hole back to 21MM. Saved a $140...

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2006 Liberty CRD 275K, JBA 2.5 with Fox Shocks, GDE Turbo Kit, GDE TCM Tune, Suncoast TC, OEM fuel filter housing converted to fit Caterpillar Fuel Filter 1R-0749, OEM themostat housing modified to accept Hemi 203 F thermostat.

my whole rear was vibrating like mad last week..turned out it was the ball joint bracket. the hole was so out of round a larger bolt wouldnt even secure it. Your bushing idea sounds great, nice job. the bracket cannot be bought from jeep (they say its a non wear part), no aftermarket makers, my tech had to locate one at a salvage yard...ran $85 bucks for them. Everything tight as can be again and nice and smooth driving again. man the whole axel could be shook by hand up on the lift when the old one was tightened fully...the bolt hole was oblong. LOL

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2003 Silver Sport - Debadged
245/75/R16 DuraTracs
Cragar Soft 8s
OME Coils & Front Shocks, Bilstein Rear Shocks - Muddified Lift
JBA 4.5 UCA
K&N CAI
MagnaFlow Exhaust
Rola Vortex Rack

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