When torquing the JBA balljoint nut, one set of instructions say 60ft/lbs like stock, the other says to simply tighten until the cotter pin hole lines up correctly.

Is it common practice to back them off to make use of the cotter pin properly or should they be torqued up so the joint stud stays seated and cannot have any play (and just pop the cotter pin in a bit below) ?

Just finishing up last few things on the lift and ARB and this was still a ??? - torqued to 50 ft/lbs it seems pretty far past the cotter pin hole.





(Sorry if this is in a how-to or tech, can't seem to find a decent JBA thread with SEARCH for the life of me).

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Huntbuggy
02 KJ Sport Silver - 2.5" OME/Bilstein lift, ARB bumper, JBA 4.5s, full factory skids, RS diff cover, rear SuperBumper on Reese 2", 245/75R16 on Cragars

Keep the torque setting and bend the cotter pin upward so it still 'locks' the nut.

Like this:

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Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es

I like that. Thx Tony.

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Huntbuggy
02 KJ Sport Silver - 2.5" OME/Bilstein lift, ARB bumper, JBA 4.5s, full factory skids, RS diff cover, rear SuperBumper on Reese 2", 245/75R16 on Cragars

Tony are those conduit nuts or some other type of washer? Looks different to me for some reason.

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My Rig:
2008 Jeep Wrangler JKU
OME HD lift
35" tires (thus far)
plus a ton of other things. J.E.E.P.

Conduit nuts. 3 of them.

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Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es