Holy Jesus what a pain those front struts are.....had to go to sears to get them to press out the upper strut plate bolts and press them into the new one....no big deal. Finally get left front reassembled and cranked the spring compressors until they wouldn't move anymore and with three guys, a prybar, a hammer, and a crowbar all together finally got that darn bolt back through the fork onto the A-arm. That was by far the most difficult part. Any tricks here? That extra 2.5 inches just made it so the holes just wouldn't line up. So its motorcycle to work for me tomorrow as the Jeep sits in the driveway on three legs, hopefully the second one won't be as hard.....I'll post some pics once it is done, BFG 245/75's are coming later in the week. W

Congrats! You are half way there!! That dang bolt can be a real PITA!

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

yes it is

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Ray's Renegade
L.O.S.T # RP052495
Light Khaki 2005 Renegade 4x4
28D package (full skids)
Trailer tow group
Auto tranny
Trac-Loc
Jeep seat covers
K&N air filter
Moog K3199 LBJs
Frankenlift
Al's upper A arms
Goodyear wrangler silent armor
255/70-16

I am exactly where you are! Just missing the left front
Reassembling the clevis definately was the hardest part...

I took my strut plates to Pep Boys and they pressed the studs out and in the new plate. Took them like 5 minutes.

I also reassembled the strut with the top plate not properly aligned relative to the bottom of the strut... so I had to disassemble it, rotate the top plate, and reassemble it.

GRRRR

Also I definately notice that the UBJ are a weak point of this suspension. It sure has me worried how angled they are and how close they run to the strut

Hey guys, I am by NO MEANS an expert on lifts and installs, but I have worked with others to put 2 lifts on Liberties, including the daystar spacer lift as recently as this past Saturday. One trick we learned with that clevis fork lower bolt is using a pry bar or whatnot to push in towards the engine and twist, so you can line up one side a little, and shove something with a smaller diameter than the actual bolt in the hole to help get started. For example, we used a forged steel rod, about the same size as a common screwdriver. It's even easier if you use something than can be pushed all the way through the holes (NOT a screwdriver, because a handle gets in the way), because once they are lined up, you can hit it with a hammer to push it all the way through, and then just take the bolt and pound it through and it will push the rod out. Just be careful, make sure you use something you can trust that won't snap!

Rick

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2002 Jeep Liberty Limited 4X4
all the usual suspects

YES good advice

I we actually put the bolt in an air ratchet and spun it, so that the threads 'walked' itself into the clevis and mount and then tapped it through gently with the 3lb sledge

Lining up the clevis itself took two people each equipped with a pry bar

Get some white out, and mark the alignment adjustment bolts on the lowers. Then loosen them up, and drop the lower control arms, and you'll make life alot easier for yourself. Then, do a rough alignment, and get it to the shop.

Makes things real easy, since a professional alignment is pretty much standard with a lift install, at least it SHOULD be. Plus, that way you know things are all straight (no pun intended) when you get those new meats on there.

Good luck...