100K mile front suspension etc rebuild parts list

Draco · **Posted:** Sun May 13, 2012 2:42 pm

My KJ currently has 97K miles on it. I'd rather wait a little longer to do this, but my medium duty OME springs are sagging some from the weight of a front ARB bumper. We're going on an off road trip in a few weeks so there is incentive to replace the front suspension before then. While doing that I want to replace a lot of stuff as preventative maintenance. I won't do the work myself.

Here is my planned parts list. Would appreciate any feedback.

My UCAs including bump stop limiters and upper ball joints were replaced at 80K miles, which is approximately when my front differential was regeared and rebuilt. So I'm not touching the UCAs or differential.

Suspension not including lift:
OEM front bump stop, 2 x $12 each
Front lower ball joint, 2 x $20 each Mopar or $58 each Moog (ouch, worth it?)
Ball joint and tie rod boot set, 1 x $9
Front LCA outer bushings 2 x $10
Front LCA inner bushings 4 x $20 each Mopar or 4 x $46 Moog (ouch, worth it?)
Swaybar end links, 2 x $20 Mopar or 2 x $33 Moog (worth it?)
Clevis, 2 x $73 (most people wouldn't but I want to replace mine)
Strut bolt and retainer, 2 x $10 (hex head is somewhat stripped on mine)
Strut nut 2 x $6 (expensive nut, bolt and nut attach clevis to LCA)

Total cost so far is between $391 and $597 depending on whether I go for Mopar or Moog (JBA) parts.

Next item is front lift. I think I'm going to try the Frankenlift II premium this time with HD springs ($748 for front only). But I've been very happy with my current setup.

Plan to replace both front CV driveshaft assemblies with NAPA remanufactured units. Costs something like $54 for the left and $60 for the right, not counting the core charge.

Front hub and bearing assemblies, 2 x $216 each Mopar or 2 x $196 JBA.

Outer tie rod ends, 2 x $30 each Mopar or 2 x $36 each Moog.

JBA stainless steel brake hoses for 2.5" lift, $186.

That puts the parts total between $1,931 and $2,109 including the front lift.

Comments? Am I forgetting anything?

I think it's okay in the rear for now. I'll at least replace the rear control arm bushings next year and probably replace the driveshafts.

Plan to keep the KJ as a daily driver until at least 150K miles.

Draco · **Posted:** Mon May 14, 2012 1:02 am

I needed to order or reserve stuff for store pickup, so here's what I did:

Jeepin by Al:
Inner and outer tie rod ends, both sides
Stainless steel brake lines for 2.5" lift
Lower ball joints
Ball joint and tie rod boot set (mainly for the tie rod boots, could be redundant)
Inner LCA bushings
Outer LCA bushings (strut fork bushings)
Front swaybar end links

NAPA
CV driveshaft assemblies both sides, remanufactured

Quadratec
Front bump stops
Front hub and bearing assemblies

Mopar
Clevis both sides
Strut bolts & retainers
Strut nuts

All-J
Frankenlift II Premium, front only

******

Replacing the clevises may not be necessary, but for sure I had to replace the strut bolts.

In the meantime I'm hearing some clunking from the front end, sometimes when turning, sometimes when going over a bump. Feels okay, but there's a sound. Might not be anything or maybe something got damaged when we went out on Saturday. Another reason for preventative maintenance.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon May 14, 2012 6:07 pm

If ypu're replacing the CVs I'd do the intermediate shaft as well that way all is new in there

Draco · **Posted:** Wed May 16, 2012 1:01 am

tommudd wrote:

If ypu're replacing the CVs I'd do the intermediate shaft as well that way all is new in there

Thank you, that was a good tip. I ordered an "Inner Axle Shaft" from 4wheelparts, in part because I can pick it up at a local store. If there's a problem return will be easier. And I like to support local stores.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-and-Differentials/Inner-Axle-Shaft.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5093&t_pl=105401&t_pn=OAI16523.43

Here is the Omix-Ada info:

http://www.omix-ada.com/jeep-parts/productInfo.asp?itemNo=5066057AB

It bugs me that they say it is for a Dana 30 and not a Dana 30a. But they very clearly identify it as a Spicer brand stock replacement for a 2002-2007 Liberty.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed May 16, 2012 6:01 am

OMIX says the "intermediate shaft " can be used on the right or left side :ROTFL:

They really know their stuff don't they

Draco · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2012 9:19 pm

Apparently I should have added front swaybar mount bushings.

I mentioned that since going out last weekend I noticed an intermittent rattling sound, which got worse fairly quick. Turns out it was the swaybar links and bushings. They actually felt solid to my touch. But I took them into a shop and after some effort they diagnosed it as the swaybar links. They rebuilt those and that got rid of the noise. They recommended replacing the swaybar mount bushings, but those had to be special ordered.

So, swaybar mount bushings should have been on the list.

Draco · **Posted:** Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:31 pm

It took long enough, but this front rebuild is complete! Arizona is hard on rubber, so I'm glad the bushings, bump stops, etc are new. I'm glad the wheel bearings were replaced. Intermediate shaft showed pretty minimal wear. LBJs were in good shape. Tie rod parts were probably fine.

Got a lot of lift back with the new H/D struts, springs, etc. Before I measured 20.5" L / 21" R between the axle center and the fender flare. After I measured 22" L / 22.5" R. Not accurate measurements but you get the idea. Rock rails sit almost perfectly level now. Expect the front will sag a good 0.5" before long.

Not cheap, especially as I didn't do the work myself. But it's good to know the front end is in top shape!

I still need to replace the sway bar mount bushings. Like I said AZ is hard on rubber and I can see age.

100K mile front suspension etc rebuild parts list

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