Vibration/Rattling coming from Transfer Case

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Took the Liberty to two different mechanics. Both said the u-joints are "fine" and don't have any play. I tried to explain that I think they are rusted under the caps and seized, but they continued to argue.

I'd like to just pull the driveshaft and check them myself, but with my limited amount of tools, I was unable to remove the rusted bolts. Any tips?

tommudd · **Posted:** Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:26 am

Mine at 50,000 didn't have any play at all either
But when I got them off rusted to all get out
To remove just need the right tools
may have to purchase just that one to do the job yourself

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Which tool do you suggest for removing the rusted over bolts?

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

I guess I'll just rent an impact driver and ball joint press from Advanced Auto Parts. Will get the u-joints from NAPA on today's lunch break.

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Well... I just picked up the Liberty at the shop... definitely NOT the u-joints.

They had it up on the lift, got it up to around 60mph, drive shaft was fine, it was the Transfer Case that had problems. An audible grinding noise from the TC accompanies the vibrations, but I could not hear it while actually driving.

Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong with my TC? 2005 Jeep Liberty Renegade with Command-Trac NP231 transfer case.

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

The CV boot on my front driveshaft that connects to the transfer case is shot. I went ahead and ordered a replacement head from automotivepartsunlimited.com which should be here Friday.

I'm hoping that will cure these vibrations and the rumbling/grinding noise coming from the transfer case.

4HI and 4LO still engage and work perfectly. How would I be able to tell if it's actually an issue with the transfer case itself or the CV?

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 03, 2012 6:33 pm

So two different mechanics and neither one found the front driveshaft boot bad ?
mmmm
I would think they would of gave it a once over at least
Go ahead and pull the front driveshaft out
that way you'll be able to tell
more than likley thats the poblem. boot goes ba, dirt gets in there and bam

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Pretty sad isn't it? I even mentioned it being torn and gritty looking to the last guy and he said "oh don't worry about that, it's just a dust cover". I had to take matters into my own hands.

Do I need to make an index mark on the front drive shaft so I know which way to put it back on?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:37 pm

tommudd wrote:

So two different mechanics and neither one found the front driveshaft boot bad ?
mmmm

That is one of the 1st things I check when I work on a KJ at work,that and the radiator and PS pressure hose.

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Any tips for knocking the front CV of the front drive shaft loose? I've got the bolts out but it's stuck.

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:24 pm

Tap it lightly with a small hammer on the ends, they sit back in just a little bit and sometimes they need a little help.
Or small pry bar should come right out

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Oct 03, 2012 11:26 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

So two different mechanics and neither one found the front driveshaft boot bad ?
mmmm

That is one of the 1st things I check when I work on a KJ at work,that and the radiator and PS pressure hose.

yes when we have M&Gs here all of the guys know I'll be under theirs at some point checking those things :wink:

and why I keep a couple replacements on the shelf all the time

Jeepin'WNC · **Joined:** Mon Nov 15, 2010 1:48 am **Posts:** 191

When I replaced my front driveshaft CV I hammered and pried and tugged, and hammered and pried and pulled some more, trying to get the front driveshaft out. I found a write up on removing the front drive shaft that said to put the front up on jack stands; after that the driveshaft came out with a little tap...Maybe it's not absolutely necessary to have the front wheels off the ground, and all the hammering, prying and pulling I'd done before jacking the front wheels off the ground had loosened the driveshaft to the point that it was just about to come loose; but hey, it worked for me...

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

I hammered for about an hour last night with no luck. Where exactly would I put the pry bar? In other words I'm not entirely sure where the front drive shaft will disconnect. I've been pulling from right in front of the bolt holes. Even soaked it in pb blaster to no avail. I don't really know what to do at this point.

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Also I've been pulling towards the rear of the Jeep. Is this right or should I be pulling downwards toward the ground?

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Oct 04, 2012 8:47 am

Its a tight fit sets back in just a little bit
tapping on it most times knocks it loose
never had an issue with it not coming out in just a little bit
you do have all of the bolts out , ...right? :lol:

I removed mine while sitting on the ground and no issues before

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Haha, yeah all bolts removed. I triple checked last night when I was going nuts trying to get it out.

Where should I be tapping with the hammer? Spot 1, 2, or 3?

I have been pulling from spots 2 and 3 towards the rear of the Jeep. Should I grip at a different spot and/or pull downward instead? Can I grip the drive shaft tube itself to pull, or should I only grip the CV?

This is not my Jeep by the way

Just a picture I found online.

TwoBobsKJ · **Joined:** Fri May 11, 2012 8:03 pm **Posts:** 463

You MAY need to take out the bolts holding the TC shift cable bracket to give you a little more room to take the driveshaft completely out. But that's Step 2...

Step 1...Once all the bolts are out of both ends of the driveshaft grab ahold of it at the transfer case end. Push toward the front of the Jeep and the front CV will compress slightly; then move the T-case CV joint out of the case's yoke and drop it down.

As I said, the shift cable bracket may need to move out of the way a little bit so you can fully remove the driveshaft from under the Jeep. The insulation that's up there can make for a tight fit.

To answer one of your earlier questions: No, you do not have to mark the driveshaft's position relative to the yokes at the T-case or front differential. The driveshaft and CV's are a self-contained unit so no balance issues to worry about.

No doubt your vibrations are from the bad CV. Check out this post from another forum. http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/4x4-problem-i-dont-want-join-2wd-club-please-help-52179/index2.html Same symptoms as yours and the CV joint was the cure.

Bob

Elmer · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:43 am **Posts:** 83

Thanks for the reply TwoBobsKJ. I was able to break it loose with a pry bar and rubber mallet. Unfortunately, this didn't help the vibration or the rattling sound coming from the transfer case. The CV head needed to be replaced regardless, so it's not all for naught.

It sounds just like the noise that's made when something is stuck in a garbage disposal. Anyone have any clue what might be loose in there? Suggestions on the most cost effective way to go about fixing it? Are there any checks I can do myself to narrow down the causes?

Thanks everyone for all the help thus far. Hopefully this issue is resolved soon.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 04, 2012 12:49 pm

What t-case do you have ? the command trac(231) or select trac(242)?

Could be the shift linkage is not adjusted right and suck partly in 2wd and 4wd.Could also be the chain hitting the case.Have you drained the t-acse and see if alot of metal shavings/chips come out?

Vibration/Rattling coming from Transfer Case

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