Time to do my brakes (again)...fronts are quite warped. I'm wondering if I have frozen calipers at the rear...? Anyways, I'm looking for recommendations for best brand for replacement parts. I know that's kind of like asking what oil is best, but I'm hoping at least some of the answers will have something quantitative in them to support them, like "company X makes their parts out of depleted uranium", or "company Y supplies parts to NASA"...

Just looking for good OEM performance. I have a small OME lift and 245/75's. Thanks!

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'04 Sport, 3.7, NV3550, NP231, OME and 215/85's
no ABS/TCS/ESP/CIA/FBI/DEA/UFO/MYOFB...

While your at it check your bj's!!

Why not hit up rockauto and use their info system. It's actually quite interesting reading. Different parts display different technical specs. They even have an economy class and a premium along with standard oem replacement.

I could get LOST sifting through all the info

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Oh you mentioned suspecting bad rears?

Jack up on side on rear end, secure with jack stand.

Strt engine.

Spin tire by hand? Good? Next step

Jam 2x4 between drivers seat and brake pedal.

Return to tire. Attempt to spin tire by aggressively and I mean aggressively trying to spin. Maybe even use two people. Don't get under the tire and don't knock it off the stand. Wheel should not spin. No matter how hard you try.

If everything check outs on both sides, the only other think can suggest is taking the rotor off and examininng the ebrake??

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Actually I was just going to lift the rear onto jackstands and when idling in first gear, see how hard I have to step on the brakes to pull the motor down...same idea though.

I've used RockAuto in the past for other vehicles, but was just curious if anyone had positive stuff to say about a particular brand or brands, in this case...

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'04 Sport, 3.7, NV3550, NP231, OME and 215/85's
no ABS/TCS/ESP/CIA/FBI/DEA/UFO/MYOFB...

Like a free standing brake torque no smoke show?

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

So, no one has any input?? Sheesh - I figured there would be a barrage of opinions...

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'04 Sport, 3.7, NV3550, NP231, OME and 215/85's
no ABS/TCS/ESP/CIA/FBI/DEA/UFO/MYOFB...

I've got rear drums on my 02 but for the front I had tried the EBC green pads and their drilled and slotted rotors a while back but they didn't seem to last as long as I would have liked. Great stopping but dirty and wore quickly. The rotors seemed to do okay but had a bit of a shimmy so I swapped them out after about 2 years (maybe 25k). Right now I'm running Napa ultra premium rotors on the front with Monroe total solution ceramic pads (Rock Auto). Read a decent review about the pads and gave them a shot. They've been great! Good stopping power and quiet. Almost two years but only about 15k on them. Checked them last weekend and they still look great.

I should add I don't really have much brand loyalty and have 5 vehicles with a variety of brands including Powerstop pads and rotors, Akebono, Raybestos, and Napa pads as well. Can't really complain about any of them.

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02 Limited 179K (GONE)
05 Limited 71K (DD)
Lots to do... too little time.

I've ran ebc greens front and rear for the past three years. Stop better but more dust and wear faster than stock. I'm making the switch to Napa ultra premium rotors and pads. Let you know after I install them this weekend.

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Outlaw KJ '04 4X4 v6 Sport
Frankenlifted front, custom springs 4" rear, 23.25" F/R - 265/75 Duratracs 16x7 D windows- JBA 4.5 UCAs, Y-link - AEM Brute Intake - Rockcrusher diff cover, Mopar Front Skid, All J belly skid, Skink Sliders - EBC Green Stuff F/R - DTT Front, 4.10s

So, I just went ahead and used the off the shelf stuff from my local NAPA dealer this past weekend. Rotors still had enough meat to be turned, so that's what I did...still might have enough for one more. New semi metallic pads up front, and new calipers at the rear, which is why I think the fronts were so overworked. The new calipers definitely made a difference, but overall, the system still seems to lack bite. Granted, the fronts are still bedding in, but I was hoping for a bigger improvement than what I have right now.

The rears still just don't grab hard. I had the rear of the Jeep on jackstands and idling in 1st gear, and no matter how hard I step on the brakes, it wouldn't pull the motor down to a stall. I bled the whole system and fluid runs freely, so there's no line blockage or air. The next component up from the rear calipers is the distribution block/proportioning valve. Do these go bad?? I realize ANYTHING can go bad, but do these have a history of going bad? The only other item is the master cylinder itself....

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'04 Sport, 3.7, NV3550, NP231, OME and 215/85's
no ABS/TCS/ESP/CIA/FBI/DEA/UFO/MYOFB...

Leaking/weak brake booster?

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

^was just a shot in the dark. But ya never know.

I like your idea of a pro portioning valve being the issue. Could it be a piece of seal material has become dislodged and ended up in the valve somehow? Perhaps a pinched line on the undercarriage?

If your not locked in the rear and have a pinched line, I can see failing a stall test that way. If the line was pinched, then you wouldn't get fluid through during bleeding. Wow..

Brain buster.

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Not to resurrect the dead, but just figured I'd update with the fix: new combination valve was the cure. Been working a treat for the past few months now.

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'04 Sport, 3.7, NV3550, NP231, OME and 215/85's
no ABS/TCS/ESP/CIA/FBI/DEA/UFO/MYOFB...