I pulled out a full sized truck stuck in a ditch using 4-low (wasn't easy and lots of tire slipping). Later that night I heard a low rumble coming from the passenger tire area. I pulled it all apart and it looks like my axle shaft -to-cv connection is stripped. I have a Haynes manual and it says to use a special tool to pull it(axle shaft) out?


- I'm planning on using a pair of vice grips since it's toast anyways.

- so I just pull it out? There's no retaining clip on the inside ?

Thanks in advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
05 KJ Sport * 2.5 Rustys * 285/75 * Sway bar removed * HD cooling system
262k (original engine and trans)
Navajo Nation AZ, NM, UT

No special tools needed
there is a clip but with vice grips it will pop out
Just push in and pop it out
It was more than likely worn out anyways and you just hadn't noticed it yet
Common issue

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Thanks tom I'll give it a try tomorrow eve..

Do I have to remove the lower strut bracket/mount to have straight access?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
05 KJ Sport * 2.5 Rustys * 285/75 * Sway bar removed * HD cooling system
262k (original engine and trans)
Navajo Nation AZ, NM, UT

When I found my intermediate shaft wobbling, the housing-end bearings & seals were also shot.

As a result, I ripped out the whole front drivetrain in one afternoon in my driveway. Then the Jeep could still drive (2wd), and I could inspect and order parts accordingly. Much easier deal with the diff on a workbench.

_________________
Hers: 2005 KJ, V6/6spd/NV242J/3.73/posi, 2" Teraflex, ¾" cradle drop, KK forks, 22½" hub-to-flare, RRO arms, 245/75R16s, 260,000km
Mine: 1993 W250, Cummins/5spd/NP205/3.54, Lockright, ~3" lift, 315/75R16 Duratracs, extra smoke, more noise, 374,000km

In my experience, I removed the whole strut assembly and the hub/steering knuckle (leaving either the tie rod or lbj attached) since the axle goes through the clevis fork and there isn't enough movement to pull the axle end out, but maybe there is another way.

Subscribed for tips from the pros.

_________________
03 KJ Sport - black
4xGuard engine skid
235/85/16 Hankook ATM
OME 927/Ironman, 1/4" plate, 3-ring clevis 21.5"
OME 948/OME + 2 Iso's Rear 22"
JBA UCAs
Bumper and winch
2x5 rockers/steps
Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded
Custom pinstriping
Custom rear interior shelf
SS drop table
Soon:
Rear bumper
WRX seats
All the skids

If your lifted, you will find the bottom of your strut will be in the way. Much easier to remove the whole tower.

Basically, support the vehicle by the front cradle, remove tire, knock the axle nut off. Undo clevis fork, separate the fork: separate upper control arm. Remove fork, remove strut, remove cv, remove shaft.

On the ground, takes about an hour.

I typed this in a hurry so I might have missed something

_________________
2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --

Just a tip, loosen the axle nut (but leave it attached) before you jack up your jeep. Otherwise, you may knock it off of the jack stand.

_________________
03 KJ Sport - black
4xGuard engine skid
235/85/16 Hankook ATM
OME 927/Ironman, 1/4" plate, 3-ring clevis 21.5"
OME 948/OME + 2 Iso's Rear 22"
JBA UCAs
Bumper and winch
2x5 rockers/steps
Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded
Custom pinstriping
Custom rear interior shelf
SS drop table
Soon:
Rear bumper
WRX seats
All the skids

I used a breaker bar between wheel studs to lock the shift movement while I loosen the axle nut.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
'06 Liberty CRD Limited. Bought at 91K miles.
ARP studs, New rockers, Stant inline tstat, Weeks 1&2, Provent, IDParts Silicone hoses,
2-1/2" Full OME lift, Timing belt, Water pump, TransGo kit, Plastic fan, Fumoto
2nd gen fuel head with 2nd stage 2 micron filter, in-tank lift pump, G2 Rear Diff Cover

That works too, I usually install the lugs on a couple of the studs to prevent damage in that case.

_________________
03 KJ Sport - black
4xGuard engine skid
235/85/16 Hankook ATM
OME 927/Ironman, 1/4" plate, 3-ring clevis 21.5"
OME 948/OME + 2 Iso's Rear 22"
JBA UCAs
Bumper and winch
2x5 rockers/steps
Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded
Custom pinstriping
Custom rear interior shelf
SS drop table
Soon:
Rear bumper
WRX seats
All the skids

Cool thanks guys I got the cv and inner axle out!!!


(Part II)
Soooo I have some another HYPOTHETICAL questions (assume I/you broke down in the middle of nowhere) -
Could I put it back together and drive it without the cv and inner axle?

Would the differential oil just come out ?

Or

If I put the inner axle back in without the cv would it stay in place ?

And if I used 4low would it turn the 3 working wheels?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
05 KJ Sport * 2.5 Rustys * 285/75 * Sway bar removed * HD cooling system
262k (original engine and trans)
Navajo Nation AZ, NM, UT

Many have done this temporarily and it's ok. Just stuff a rag into the hole to keep dirt out. The diff should not leak fluid, if I remember correctly. (somebody correct me if I'm wrong.)


Because you have an open (unlocked) differential, you would get zero torque on your other front wheel, even with 4WD engaged. It would be like driving a rear wheel drive KJ.

_________________
2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 Automatic

Jeepin By Al 4" Lift Kit
BFG KO2’s 245/75R16
Full MOPAR skid plates
Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
AtTheHelm Front Recovery System & Roof Rack
M116A3 Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997