Front and rear diff locker installation

samse2101 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 9:44 am

Hi,

the two lockers (thread about it -> viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83716 ) are on their way to me, now i please for some advice and tips or instructions for the installation of them?

Whats about this "special tools" named in the FSM -> like a diff spreader for the D30a or the ADJUSTMENT WRENCH C-4164 for the rear axle?

Necessary or not? Which tools i really need for the locker installation? :?:

bye,
samse :wink:

samse2101 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 23, 2016 2:49 pm

Nothing?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 23, 2016 3:06 pm

You do need a large tool that you can weld up, or buy for roughly $40 that adjusts the rear dif. You can make it with the head of a large bolt, something like 3/4 to 1" roughly, and then you can weld a really long 1/2 or maybe 3/8 extension onto the bolt. I can't remember the name of the disc that threads in against the carrier, or carrier bearings :dizzy:

You'll need a tiny torque wrench for measuring bearing preload (down to 10-15 in. pound range).

You'll need to have a 1/2 or preferably a 3/4 socket and impact (preferably) or a 3/4 inch breaker bar with about a 5 foot length (piece of pipe cheater bar...) to apply the massive amount of torque (over 400 ft pounds I think). And, then you'll need a massive spanner wrench to counteract the force of the giant wrench. +two reasonably strong people.
So much easier with one of the cheap 3/4 1,000 ft pound impacts. I think they make electric ones that aren't too much money that work good for this application.

That's all of the unusual tools that I can think of. New ring bolts are advised.

samse2101 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 26, 2016 7:39 am

Ok, roger so far.... :wink:

This are the 2 main needed tools:

When i´m doing the locker installation, i´ll also change the complete bearings and seals of both axles, special tools needed? if yes, which one?

the two master overhaul kits for the D30a and C8.25 are ordered...

bye,
samse

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:39 am

Access to a hydraulic press to install bearings on the pinion shaft and carrier...

G.O.A.T. · **Joined:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:11 am **Posts:** 149

Since its a carrier replacement also some way to measure the backlash

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Feb 26, 2016 2:11 pm

And a bearing puller (you should be able to get a shop to push and pull bearings for cheap).
And the cheap wheel bearing puller set for the axle bearings if you're doing those on the rear. I got one from Autozone for about $30. I bet you could find similar one on Amazon. A cheap one with several different sizes is handy for multiple vehicles.

If you want to be really safe, you could get the upgraded ring and pinion also. It is difficult to read the pattern during gear setup with worn gears. Maybe good insurance that a ring or pinion failure doesn't destroy your very expensive locker. Tommud or another expert might be able to tell us if there is much of a chance of a ring or pinion failure :?:

I would think yes, mainly because there is a lot better chance that you won't get the pinion depth correct, because it's hard to read the pattern. New gears are easy to read.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:57 pm

Mountainman wrote:

And a bearing puller (you should be able to get a shop to push and pull bearings for cheap).
And the cheap wheel bearing puller set for the axle bearings if you're doing those on the rear. I got one from Autozone for about $30. I bet you could find similar one on Amazon. A cheap one with several different sizes is handy for multiple vehicles.

If you want to be really safe, you could get the upgraded ring and pinion also. It is difficult to read the pattern during gear setup with worn gears. Maybe good insurance that a ring or pinion failure doesn't destroy your very expensive locker. Tommud or another expert might be able to tell us if there is much of a chance of a ring or pinion failure :?:

I would think yes, mainly because there is a lot better chance that you won't get the pinion depth correct, because it's hard to read the pattern. New gears are easy to read.

If you reuse the ring and pinion gears and install the same shims under the pinion gear big bearing before you press it on your pinion depth should be OK. After installing all parts to specifications and setting carrier preload you can check the backlash with a dial indicator, it should be .003 to .005 with lower number being better especially with new bearings that will wear in and loosen in time. Apply red or yellow lead paint to ring gear after all settings are adjusted and check tooth contact pattern between pinion gear and ring gear in both forward and reverse directions and make sure the contact patterns show good contact across the whole face of the ring gear. There are many good guides on the internet on how to set up and check a differential... :wink:

mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

How about Chrysler 8.25 or 9.25 specific? I haven't found anything on these. The side adjusters are pretty aggravating. I'd rather have shims. At least there's no variable with shims. Just math. Can't seem to get my pinion to stop smacking the diff case. Sometime back I took the traclok out and put in an open case with a spartan locker. Easy right.... now taking hard turn's the pinion is contacting the case. Or the other way around. I thought the crush sleeve might have just crushed too far and settled over time so I changed it this weekend. Bearings looked fine but I did replace the smaller bearing (forward one) now the contact doesn't happen so much at a turn. It happens constantly when I'm coasting driving straight. Resistance was about 23 in lbs. Didn't do this during the test drive yesterday. Only thing I guess I could do this week is hit the pinion nut with the impact some more a little at a time and drive it

mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

Service manual doesn't help much. You know the guy was high when he wrote the info down. It says apply the parking brake to create resistance while checking the backlash. Parking brake doesn't do much to the diff when the axle shafts are missing haha

mk38tech · **Joined:** Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:25 pm **Posts:** 72

still getting a knocking problem when axle is warm on hard turns. any ideas?

samse2101 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:10 am

Does anyone know the sizes of this tool :?:

i´ve found a drawing of this tool, but the pic is to small to read the numbers on it....

thx and bye,
samse :wink:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:00 am

samse2101 wrote:

Does anyone know the sizes of this tool :?:

i´ve found a drawing of this tool, but the pic is to small to read the numbers on it....

thx and bye,
samse :wink:

You can make your own tool and save a lot of money!!!!
I made my own using a very long cheap 1/2" drive extension I bought at Harbor Freight, welded a big nut of the correct size on the end of it. Works like a champ!!! :wink:

Will get you the dimensions (sizes) when I go to the shop!!!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2016 1:34 pm

Dimensions for the tool that I built and have used several times are as follows:
Nut outside size: 1 & 7/16" or 36mm hex nut, six point. Fits carrier bearings side adjusters.
extension length: 32", welded to nut.

samse2101 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2016 2:18 pm

thank you very much

more to follow :wink:

bye,
samse

Front and rear diff locker installation

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