JohnnyCRDhead wrote:
I know you don’t think these trucks need longer rear lower control arms. I’ve read your opinion on the matter a lot on this forum. I’ve read 4x4 and CRD sections back to 2014 posts but I live in south Jersey which is as flat as a pool table. All I have here are the pine barrens and the beach to drive on. I wanted my rear wheels centered at ride height. I don’t need to stuff any wheels here. The rear arms are almost an inch longer and the wheels are perfectly centered.
I have an update on my issue so I figured the alignment rack wasn’t 100% infallible so I measured the rear lower control arm mounts to the front u-joint weld seam. There was a 3/4” difference. So I adjusted the rear lower arms. I went in one turn on the driver rear and out one turn on the passenger rear then I slid the t-case Cross member to the driver side about 1/16” tops. I am within 1/2” now. The vibration is about 25% Better.
My passenger front can’t get enough negative camber. It’s at -.01 degree. I think this makes some sense now. Tomorrow I am going to see if the front subframe has dowels or not. If not I’ll move it to the passenger side helping the camber and the rear driveline side angle. Then maybe new motor mounts.
On a side note I also moved my from lower control arms forward 1/4”. I pressed the bushings on the new arms. It aided in tire clearance and caster. Was totally worth it.
Yeah your angles are all wrong.
OE style driveshaft..............
You will have vibs unless you achieve the above angles,not to mention the tailshaft and pinion shaft must be in perfect alignment also.
It took me 2 weeks to get my rear setup perfect,I SFA'd my KJ and have 5 link setups front and rear.
Double cardon(CV) driveshaft..............
The above is a "cruise speed" not stopped static angle.