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 Post subject: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:46 pm 
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I drive a Jeep Cherokee KJ CRD 2.5 2004 model. While I was driving the other day, just went over the robot and all of a sudden the car lost power upon acceleration and there was smoke coming from the engine compartment. Had to tow the car home as it was not driveable. Upon checking I discovered that the last fuel injector had been pushed up from its position and the bolt holding it down had broken. Question : what could have caused this?? Please help


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:58 pm 
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consy wrote:
I drive a Jeep Cherokee KJ CRD 2.5 2004 model. While I was driving the other day, just went over the robot and all of a sudden the car lost power upon acceleration and there was smoke coming from the engine compartment. Had to tow the car home as it was not driveable. Upon checking I discovered that the last fuel injector had been pushed up from its position and the bolt holding it down had broken. Question : what could have caused this?? Please help

What did the end of the injector look like; see any physical damage to the tip end??? :roll:

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
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Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
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Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 2:56 pm 
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The injector looks fine except it was black from combustion as a result of diesel coming in contact with oxygen(I believe so)


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 4:56 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
FSM states that those bolts are a single use type. (Not TTY)
The reason listed was original torquing and use causes minor deformation of the bolt's threads. Re-torquing of the used bolts would cause deformation of the threads in the aluminum head, and loosening of the bolts, to even stripping of the threads in the head.

{EDIT} Another thing to be wary of, is whether the steel pad insert on the head is missing, where the 'foot' of the hold-down device should rest against it. If (at some point) it went missing while previous work was being done, the 'foot' will compress and deform the aluminum head and the injector hold-down clamp will loosen.

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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 2:28 pm 
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Thank very much for your responses to this topic. I haven't repaired the since the last time I sent the post. The retaining bolt that holds the injector is also broken and a piece is still holding on inside. Before i do anything,I have to remove it ,which is a challenge as its broken and the head is missing. Probably have to get someone to weld so I can remove it.

Any ideas on how I can solve this one?
Also are there any special tools to remove the injectors(I have to remove the front three so that I can have easy access to the broken one)

Your responses will be highly appreciated
Joseph


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 3:34 pm 
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consy wrote:
Probably have to get someone to weld so I can remove it.
Any ideas on how I can solve this one?
Also are there any special tools to remove the injectors(I have to remove the front three so that I can have easy access to the broken one)
Your responses will be highly appreciated
Joseph

If there is enough of the bolt left sticking up you might can soak it good with penetrating oil, rap on it with a hammer to jar the threads some to help get the penetrating oil down in them good and deep, then get on it with some vice grips or broken stud remover and back it out.

Be very careful when welding on a vehicle that contains electronics! :frankie:
I won't go into a lot of detail, but there are dangers!
I connect a surge device (Antizap Protector) to the battery anytime I am forced to weld on a vehicle and cannot remove the part and bench weld it.
But even using a surge protector when welding, there are dangers of EM pulse and eddy or stray currents (also called Foucault currents) that can be picked up by adjacent wiring and / or wiring harnesses and damage sensitive electronic components.

For more information, read the Electrical Engineering Website:
Protecting electronics against welding damage
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/q ... ing-damage

Image

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 9:31 pm 
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Location: north central Nebraska
As to the 'why'.. it can be a lot of different things
Somebody might of side loaded it during installation..or used it for a fulcrum to help pull an injector..
Somebody might of used a little too much ether..
Somebody might of used a impact gun once or twice..

Likely, though, too many times r and r'd. That whole area is a real ring a ding ding. for shock waves... and any pre stressed bolt is not going to survive under tension.
Might as well replace the other 3 while you are at it!

WW mentioned to not weld.. I too would be pretty leary around all the electronics. I've heard that disconnecting the battery, and connecting the cables together may limit any 'stray'.. I dunno. I'd at least put the welder ground as close as possible to the actual welded area!! Do not clamp it to the next injector, or any fuel lines! Maybe practice on a couple of similar sized bolts and washers to get a feel of what it's going to take.
His advice on 'smacking' the bolt downward will help jar the threads loose. I'd use a center punch, directly in the center of the broke part. One smart whack should be enough.

IF you do weld, find a steel washer just big enough inside diameter to cover the end of the broke bolt.. and tack it to the washer. Press down hard on the washer as you weld it.. otherwise the washer will simply lift as the weldment forms. Use a screwdriver or something. The washer will pretty much protect the alum. (in case you 'miss') :wink: Then tack on a nut or something on the washer to 'grab' onto. Give it plenty of time to cool, that bolt will have expanded and may be really tight until cooled.
Rock the nut back and forth gently, until you feel it making headway.
Unless some goof cross threaded it, it should back out pretty easily. I've never been 'beat' by this method, but several attempts sometimes are reqd.
I'd even try using JB weld on the washer. Pre weld a nut to it, and flow some jbweld down the inside of the nut and it should bond to the broke nub. It's gotta be clean and dry though!! The worst that could happen is the cold weld will simply shear off. My problem with the JB is I'm not patient enough to allow full cure.

Stuff a rag into the injector bore first.. you don't want a welding splatter landing on the sealing surface, and take the rag out later so you don't have a fire going!!

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80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
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New "Pet" name for My Jeep; 'Soul Sucker'


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:22 pm 
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To cool it after welding, use this, works great! :wink:

CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant
Image

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Last edited by WWDiesel on Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 3:02 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Have you given any thought to drilling the stub out with a left-handed bit?

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 11:37 am 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
Have you given any thought to drilling the stub out with a left-handed bit?

Drilling even with a reverse cut drill bit should be a case of last resort when all other options have failed.
Many times drilling out a broken steel bolt or stud in an aluminum part will damage the threads especially in aluminum since they are so soft to start with and will require thread repair with either a Heli-coil or Thread-sert insert. :roll:
speaking from many exacerbating experiences! :banghead:

Craftsman Tools nowadays does have some pretty nifty extraction tools for broken bolts & studs. :D

_________________
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel Injector
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2018 1:45 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
They have to be drilled to use an ez out anyway. The LH bits work by them selves about half the time, for me.

Somewhat depends on one's skill with the tools, and most folks are more likely to have a drill on hand than a welder.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
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