Glad you got the spreader tool sorted out. If I do this again, I'll make some changes. One of the bolts started stretching the threads out.

Sounds like you got the preload on the carrier bearings tightened up just right and reduced the backlash at the same time. Good job!!! I'm not sure actually. I need to find out where to get the solid spacers. I'd like to find a 0.100" precision spacer. Then I could make further adjustments that would make it perfect. The spacers installed are 0.128" and 0.123" thick. I think that would ease up some of the preload, and close the 0.006 clearance between the gears. I could add some more shims back in to get it exactly right.

Book says carrier should be (3.9-6.6 in. lbs.) resistance to turning with the correct preload.
Did you measure the ring & gear backlash after all the shim changes/additions? What average did you end up with around the gear? In the end, I still have 0.006" clearance between gears.

What about preload on the pinion bearings, they should have a small amount (15-25 in. lbs.) torque to rotate as well. Just sight resistance to turning by hand. The pinion shaft seems good enough. I'm not going to touch it.
Book says the whole assembly should end up around (15-25 in. lbs.) + (3.9-6.6 in. lbs.) tot.

Used bearings will always be on the low side vs new ones, so if you end up with a total assembly torque to rotate value of a little over 20 in. lbs. you should be good to go. It takes about 25 inch-pounds to get it moving, but then rotates effortlessly. I did squirt some clean transmission fluid on the bearings and it helped some. The initial torque to overcome standing friction bothers me.
I use a 1/4" drive in. lbs. torque wrench to test the rotational torque by adding a 1/4 to 3/8 to 1/2" adapters to the pinion nut socket. (driveshaft disconnected)

While in there, I would also paint some of the teeth on the ring gear and check the contact pattern in both directions just because you are staring at it.
I always paint and check'em in both drive and coast just to make sure it is correct and there is not going to be a lot of noise or unnecessary wear. I'm not going to bother with that. If it howls a little, I won't care. If it howls a lot, then I'll care.
Since all your pinion parts were already in place, yours will probably be a perfect pattern.

Tried to find the thick shims locally at a couple auto repair shops and a transmission shop, but no luck. Finally ordered a set of Dana 20/30 Carrier Shims from Drive Train America on line. I expect to get them by next weekend, July 30.
Dean.

DriveTrain America sent the wrong parts, then Troy tried to convince me they were compatible parts saying, "...as long as the ID is the same they will work...". They sent me Pinion shims instead of Carrier shims. He continued saying, "...you may as well USPS the parts back on your own because DriveTrain America will charge you freight to FedEx the parts back to themselves and the result will be no refund..."

While I accepted that at first, I slowly got pissed. Now I imagine Troy is a back office computer-based sales guy with a pencil neck and baby-smooth hands and face. I can imagine he has never touched a wrench or screwdriver, much less a case spreader, nor soiled his hands with differential lube.





Clearly Troy does not know the difference between a Carrier assembly and a Pinion shaft.



Previous post... ...if I were to construct a Case Spreader according to the FSM, here are rough dimensions

[Edit] ...thinking about this more, the Turnbuckle part (4) should be made out of 1/2" thick wall plumbing pipe. This will house and guide the 1/2" threaded rod better than just a U-shape flat steel.

Dean.

Found an ECM Repair company called ModuleExperts.com and took a chance on letting them repair my ECM.

Had a bad feeling going in that ModuleExperts.com would be a bad experience. Turned out to be true.

Their website reads, "...Pay us [up front] with CC and send in your Engine Control Module for repair. Flat rate $250..."

I wasn't about to pay in advance, but, I sent in the module first and awaited their response. They said "...your ECM is beyond repair. We can sell you an re-manufactured unit for an additional $960.

I told them to return my ECM without making any repairs. They responded in all caps (yelling) "JUST TOLD YOU IT IS NOT REPAIRABLE, SO HOW EXACTLY ARE WE TO "NOT MAKE ANY REPAIRS?" DID YOU NOT READ ANYTHING THAT WAS JUST EXPLAINED TO YOU?"

So I responded again, "Please send my ECM back to me."

They responded "WHY".

I said, "I don't want ModuleExperts.com to have a free module. I'll have someone else repair it. I understand it will cost me $25 return shipping."

Nothing in response.

Meanwhile, I found another ECM company that offers the same ECM for $350 outright.
https://ecmrebuilders.com/product-categ ... jeep-2005/

So I purchased an ECM supposedly programmed specifically for my VIN. See what happens in the next few days or week.

Dean.

"I'm not dead yet."

Got a [rude] notice from my bank, ModuleExperts.com contested my action to stop payment on their charges. My bank reversed the "credit" and paid out $263.99 for a repair that I did not get. So here is my advise, "...avoid ModuleExperts.com". You'll save yourself heartache, money and time.

Dean.

BTW, My Liberty is still up on blocks with the front differential and both front brakes hanging out. I've been swamped by way too much to do. Hopefully this weekend I will get back under the beast. I've decided to make an adjustment to the Pinion gear by adding 0.007" to the existing shim. That should tighten up the 0.010 slop between the pinion and ring gears.

Hope to have some happy news later this weekend.

Dean.

Wow !!!
In Australia this would not happen.
On a number of occasions I have charged back on my Visa card.
Every time I have got a full refund. In one case, I still have the item.
It was not as described.
The seller has never provided free post details for me to return it.
A couple of times I have done similar with Paypal. Every time I have got a full refund.
I guess with regard to Visa, my bank would go into battle for me as they would not wish to loose my accounts.
Sorry to hear you are out of pocket Dean.

I had great intentions of finishing this front differential this weekend, but the ugly face of fate looked dimly upon me.

First I heated the driveshaft-end pinion bearing (tail bearing) to 200°F in a toaster oven and chilled the pinion gear in the freezer for about an hour. Got into position with the cold gear in the pumpkin and the warm bearing in my gloved hand. Then the phone rang with work calling about county freshwater pressure down to zero. I attempted to continue assembling but the bearing had cooled too much.

After lunch I repeated the process except heating the bearing to 400°F and freezing the gear again. Got into position as before and the phone rang again. This time the guard was reporting a vehicle break-in. I got the bearing mostly in position but in my disturbed haste I forgot to include the crushable sleeve. Aaarrrggg !!

So I went to my shop and repaired a table lamp. I'll try again next weekend.

Dean.

Ok, got my second wind and took the mess apart. Heated the bearing and put the pinion gear & crush sleeve together correctly. Slid the hot bearing on. I feel better now. The afternoon is ending now so it's time to stop. Next chore is to put in the pinion seal, driveshaft yoke and pinion nut.

No phone calls this time.

Dean.