The pump Sasquatch uses I believe has the same specs as mine, and it puts out 11psig here at basically sea level. I don't know if they have an internal bypass or not, but they are pressure-limited somehow. No worry though. The CP3 ignores everything under 44psig, when the Cascade Overflow Valve moves into stage 2, internal lubrication. I think the factory Mopar diesel pumps are rated 8-12 psi. The only important thing if you use a different type, is make sure it's a draw-through design, so if it quits, the CP3 can still pull fuel through it. The factory design like these comply with that.
As far as power, the CRD Libby's are equipped with both fuse and relay for the in-tank pump. The connector is under the driver side rear seat, under the carpet and everything else under that, just above the metal floor. Remove that seat, the plastic side liner from the foot rail to the shoulder belt, so you can lift everything and get to the wire loom connector where it goes through the floor support rib, and out through the body grommet to the pump/sending unit. The factory power lead ends at that connector. The only 2 wires you need to add to the through-body loom and grommet are power and ground, but you might have to switch the existing sending unit float arm with the new one. (I did, but used the Dodge Cummins pump. Sasquatch may already have the right one on.)
There is a post in here somewhere that is step by step with tools needed, wiring connectors needed, pictures and everything. I'm pretty sure if I started looking for it now, WWDiesel will have it posted before I find it.
The wire connectors are pretty tiny, but are standard Mopar design. I snipped some wires with connectors from the wrecked Dodge to re-purpose, and used silicone and heat-shrink wrap to seal the tank end of the loom.
One of my cheats for adding wires to existing looms, is to make a tiny version of an underground wire pulling harness.. For this, I used a 1/16" welding rod and removed all the flux from it, then rounded one end very smoothly. (drill and orbital sander) At the other end I use good electrical tape (super 33 or equivalent) put a couple secure wraps around the clean welding rod (square end), then butt the wire up against the end of the rod, and wrap the tape diagonally down the wire a couple of times, a couple more straight around, then diagonally back up. That way when you pull the metal rod through the loom, the drag of the wire will actually tighten the tape's grip. It also helps to use some liquid soap around the whole thing so it slips through easier. You will need to be very careful, as the ABS cables run through it as well, which is why Sasquatch offers separate 2005 and 2006 loom versions.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=267112#p267112
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