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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2022 6:16 pm 
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If it's not one thing, it's another. Drove the beast up & down our street and heard a "clunking" sound coming from the front LEFT wheel.

Dug into it today and found the problem. The RIGHT front half shaft is the wrong one. It fits a little too loosely and clunks around. I got it off eBay from some seller who is a reseller for Maridian Auto Parts. Paid $110 and got free shipping. Turns out it's the wrong part. Apparently I received a gasser model front right half shaft. Bought it July 29 but by now it's been too long to get a refund.

Also found a broken lower ball joint on the same side. Other than a manufacturing defect, I don't know how that happened.

Ordered a new half shaft ($130) and lower ball joint ($30) from O'Reilly Auto Parts. They'll be at the store Tuesday or Wednesday.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2022 11:37 pm 
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Jeeze, it's been 2 weeks already. Finally getting a chance to dig into the right half shaft. Bought a new one and it has just as sloppy fit same as the old one. So that means the Intermediate shaft is worn. A new Intermediate shaft is $250 from Mopar and around half that from other vendors. The bearing is $18-$20 and the seal is $20-$40.
Image

Saw a video on YouTube University that compares a worn shaft to a good one. That is exactly the issue I'm having.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oj0g4Ql4m2Q

Watched another video about removing the intermediate shaft (stub shaft) with a slide hammer. Also, how to modify a puller for a 'power steering pump pulley' to grab the shaft.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EYR1YfpgKk

While in there, I may as well replace the bearing and seal in the end of the differential housing for the intermediate shaft. The bearing is most likely the source of the noise. It sounds like an un-regular clunking. Oy Vey.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2022 1:45 pm 
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FYI:
Keep in mind, there are two different bearings, bushings with different part numbers.
I think others have reported the bearing can replace the plastic bushings.
This has been discussed on here in the past.

Image

Image

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2022 4:42 pm 
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Thanks WWDiesel,

I didn't realize there was a bushing available. That makes sense because there is no weight load, only torque loads. The bushing seems to be an upgrade part since it has the ...AB suffix instead of the original ...AA suffix.

I already ordered from JEGS.com this morning and I'm getting the original bearing, not the bushing. I'm happy with this because it should last another 100,000 miles. By then, I'll be a hundred years old and won't remember what a vehicle is anymore.

My order was $260 because Hawaii does not get included for free shipping. Other web sites either won't ship to Hawaii or were out of stock.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2022 9:04 pm 
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Posts: 7177
Location: Central GA
I have no idea which one is better than the other since I have not had to replace one.
I just wanted you to be aware of it in case you ran into any problems. :D

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2022 12:44 am 
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Thanks WWDiesel,

Has anyone had problems with JEGS.com Aftermarket Resellers?

I phoned in an order Friday afternoon and the only thing that I've received is an email thanking me for the $1 donation. The actual order doesn't seem to be anywhere. The money for the parts ($44.25 + $153.54 + $66.14) did come out of my account. Hmmmm. Axle Intermediate Shaft $89.99 + Freight + Tax, Axle Shaft Bearing $12.99 + Freight + Tax, Axle Seal $7.99 + Freight + Tax. These amounts are way out of line. Their customer support line is closed.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2022 12:31 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2018 10:05 pm
Posts: 139
Location: SoCal
Just an FYI, when I looked at the 05 parts fiche the bearing and bushing for the right side intermediate shaft; it is supposedly dependent on the tag number on the differential. I couldn't determine what tag number I had as I grabbed mine front diff (4:10 gears) out of the junkyard 4cyl gas Liberty. Yes, the needle bearing fit just fine and has been running good now for about 8K miles . However, I still have a slight up and down play on the intermediate shaft (without the CV axle installed) and now I'm left wondering if I should install the bushing type to eliminate some of the slope and the clunking I hear from the right side.

I have to break down the front suspension anyway since I broke a QA1 / Adjust a strut (from JBL) shock (snapped the shock rod at the threaded end) and since its torn down I may replace the needle bearing with the bushing and see what happens.

Just a thought for you,

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05 CRD; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper trilink w/WW mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gear, front/rear air lockers, ARB bumper, Rock Lizard sliders/roof rack, Mod T-stat


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2022 7:36 pm 
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CaptainDean wrote:
03black

I noticed the same thing of having a very slight lateral [Edit: side to side] movement on the Intermediate Axle Shaft within the differential housing.

Here is a short video on YouTube University that compares a worn shaft to a good one. That is exactly the issue I'm having, and I think you are noticing as well. Even the new Intermediate shaft mating with a new CV Half Shaft has a little movement. This guy did not mention the lateral play in the end of the differential. It's only a few thousandths.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oj0g4Ql4m2Q

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2022 10:00 pm 
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CaptainDean wrote:
Thanks WWDiesel,

Has anyone had problems with JEGS.com Aftermarket Resellers?

The money for the parts ($44.25 + $153.54 + $66.14) did come out of my account. Hmmmm. Axle Intermediate Shaft $89.99 + Freight + Tax, Axle Shaft Bearing $12.99 + Freight + Tax, Axle Seal $7.99 + Freight + Tax.

Dean.

I am never buying from JEGS.com again. Their parts prices are fine, but their shipping is ridiculously expensive. I purchased 3 parts on Oct 30; here are the results as of Nov 4...

Front axle bearing: $12.99 FedEx Priority $49.34 -- Shipped Nov 3, Tracking: Due Nov 14 (11 days)
Front axle shaft: $89.99 FedEx Priority $56.94 -- Not yet shipped
Front axle seal: $7.99 FedEx Priority $34.35 -- Shipped Nov 4, Tracking: Due Nov 11 (7 days)

JEGS is CRAP
Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2022 12:03 am 
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Posts: 7177
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I think the biggest problem is Fedex,
I went into their web site and got a quote to ship a 6lb package from GA to Hawaii, cost was $244 dollars and some change. Ridiculous! :furious:

I priced purchasing a $7.99 axle seal at Jegs, and to have it shipped to my location in GA was $14 over dollars. :furious:
Something is inherently wrong when shipping costs more than double the price of a part!
Fedex must be in cahoots with Jegs as they don't offer any other shipping options on their checkout page!

I don't use Fedex for shipping due to their high prices. Mostly I use USPS Priority Mail or USP when I have to.

Sorry for your woes CaptainDean! :cry:

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2022 7:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 541
Location: Australia
Dean was it the FCM that you had to replace.
If so, who was it you got the replacement from?
IIRC you had a bad experience with one company & then a good response from another.
Your comments would be very valuable.

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2022 8:14 pm 
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WWDiesel wrote:
I think the biggest problem is Fedex,
I went into their web site and got a quote to ship a 6lb package from GA to Hawaii, cost was $244 dollars and some change. Ridiculous! :furious:

I agree WWDiesel,

When I have the opportunity, I try to use USPS. They are the cheapest, and I want to see them stick around.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2022 8:30 pm 
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Posts: 694
CaptainDean wrote:
CaptainDean wrote:
Apparently this ECM repair business is filled with crooks.

The first company (ModuleExperts.com) has made another mistake, and probably a deliberate one. They charge $250 + tax for a module test and repair. $72 testing fee, $153 repair fee, $25 return postage/freight fee -- sounds good enough. With mine, they said it was beyond repair so I asked them to return it. They refunded only the testing fee ($72) instead of the repair fee ($153). They still owe me $81.

I've called and they don't answer. I've emailed and they don't reply. This is the crappy part of being isolated in Hawaii; I can't go there and pound on the counter!

Dean.

On the other hand, the second company (EcmRebuilders.com) is sounding completely honest and striving for excellence. My last conversation with them, they said the new ECM will ship with the most recent version of software. If I recall correctly, it is version CK suffix. Check the list below...

2005 KJ 2.8L AUTO US ECM
56044562AF
56044562BA
56044562BB
56044562BC
56044562BD
56044562BE
56044562BF
56044562CA<--- (mine)
56044562CB |
56044562CC |
56044562CD | Alternatives ? <---- YES !! These are compatible alternatives !
56044562CE |
56044562CF |
56044562CG | <--
56044562CH | <--
56044562CI .| <-- NEWER REVISIONS !
56044562CJ | <--
56044562CK | <--

The next day they called me to say the module will ship out soon and they have deleted the EGR code at my request.

Dean.

layback40,

I had to replace the ECM, not the FCM. Regardless, I recommend contacting EcmRebuilders.com, and avoid ModuleExperts.com. Good luck.

I recall you saying you wanted to wait until the weather improved to work on your Liberty. The weather must be better now...

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 12:05 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 541
Location: Australia
CaptainDean wrote:
CaptainDean wrote:
CaptainDean wrote:
Apparently this ECM repair business is filled with crooks.

The first company (ModuleExperts.com) has made another mistake, and probably a deliberate one. They charge $250 + tax for a module test and repair. $72 testing fee, $153 repair fee, $25 return postage/freight fee -- sounds good enough. With mine, they said it was beyond repair so I asked them to return it. They refunded only the testing fee ($72) instead of the repair fee ($153). They still owe me $81.

I've called and they don't answer. I've emailed and they don't reply. This is the crappy part of being isolated in Hawaii; I can't go there and pound on the counter!

Dean.

On the other hand, the second company (EcmRebuilders.com) is sounding completely honest and striving for excellence. My last conversation with them, they said the new ECM will ship with the most recent version of software. If I recall correctly, it is version CK suffix. Check the list below...

2005 KJ 2.8L AUTO US ECM
56044562AF
56044562BA
56044562BB
56044562BC
56044562BD
56044562BE
56044562BF
56044562CA<--- (mine)
56044562CB |
56044562CC |
56044562CD | Alternatives ? <---- YES !! These are compatible alternatives !
56044562CE |
56044562CF |
56044562CG | <--
56044562CH | <--
56044562CI .| <-- NEWER REVISIONS !
56044562CJ | <--
56044562CK | <--

The next day they called me to say the module will ship out soon and they have deleted the EGR code at my request.

Dean.

layback40,

I had to replace the ECM, not the FCM. Regardless, I recommend contacting EcmRebuilders.com, and avoid ModuleExperts.com. Good luck.

I recall you saying you wanted to wait until the weather improved to work on your Liberty. The weather must be better now...

Dean.

Thanks Dean.
Has not rained for a few days so the flood waters are going down.
I am hoping the problem is the locust that was lodged in the plug hole. Any time the humidity was high or it was wet there probably would have been some strange connections. Will see when I get back to it. If it is the FCM, I will be in contact with your friends.
I ownly purchased the jeep as a way to get a cheap engine for my 2007. I have done about 120,000km in it without too many problems. If it cant be fixed, I will go back to plan A & use the engine for the 2007.

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2022 2:20 am 
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CaptainDean wrote:
I am never buying from JEGS.com again. Their parts prices are fine, but their shipping is ridiculously expensive. I purchased 3 parts on Oct 30.

Front axle bearing: $12.99 FedEx Priority $49.34
Front axle shaft: $89.99 FedEx Priority $56.94 -- Not yet shipped
Front axle seal: $7.99 FedEx Priority $34.35

JEGS is CRAP
Dean.

Two parts arrived today (Nov 10 -- 12 days later)

* Front axle bearing: $12.99 FedEx Priority $49.34
* Front axle seal: $7.99 FedEx Priority $34.35

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 12:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 694
CaptainDean wrote:
Two parts arrived today (Nov 10 -- 12 days later)

* Front axle bearing: $12.99 FedEx Priority $49.34
* Front axle seal: $7.99 FedEx Priority $34.35

Dean.

Replaced the right-side intermediate axle shaft bearing and seal today. Used a 3-jaw slide hammer to extract the intermediate shaft. The jaws are simple cast iron and not ground for precision locating. Used a handheld angle grinder to carefully shape the jaws to seat into the groove at the outer end of the Intermediate shaft. Put a hose clamp around the jaws to secure them into the slot on the shaft. The shaft came out easily.
Image

What a PITA it was getting the seal out. Reversed the jaws to pull out the seal. Unfortunately, the jaws now meet onto the rubber part of the seal, so the slide hammer blows were cushioned and the seal would not dislodge. Resorted to trying to collapse the seal but that didn't work. Tried again with the slide hammer and finally got it. Had to angle the puller off to one side and that finally broke loose part of the seal. Then it was easy. The bearing must have been replaced sometime by a previous owner because it was the newer bushing that came out, not the roller bearing.

Cleaned up the differential case area and installed the new roller bearing and seal. This was finally the easy part.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2022 11:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 694
CaptainDean wrote:
Replaced the right-side intermediate axle shaft bearing and seal today. Used a 3-jaw slide hammer to extract the intermediate shaft. The jaws are simple cast iron and not ground for precision locating. Used a handheld angle grinder to carefully shape the jaws to seat into the groove at the outer end of the Intermediate shaft. Put a hose clamp around the jaws to secure them into the slot on the shaft. The shaft came out easily.
Image

What a PITA it was getting the seal out. Reversed the jaws to pull out the seal. Unfortunately, the jaws now meet onto the rubber part of the seal, so the slide hammer blows were cushioned and the seal would not dislodge. Resorted to trying to collapse the seal but that didn't work. Tried again with the slide hammer and finally got it. Had to angle the puller off to one side and that finally broke loose part of the seal. Then it was easy. The bearing must have been replaced sometime by a previous owner because it was the newer bushing that came out, not the roller bearing.

Cleaned up the differential case area and installed the new roller bearing and seal. This was finally the easy part.

Dean.

Here is a picture of the jaws ground down to fit into the groove in the Intermediate Shaft.
Image
The red line indicates the original shape of the cast jaws.

The new Intermediate Axle shafts have a new shipping date of Nov 25, nearly a month from the original purchase date. I don't really buy the idea of COVID being an excuse for delayed shipping dates anymore. However, maybe COVID is still much worse in other countries than the USA. My prime thoughts are that manufacturers and others realized that their companies could still operate with reduced payroll, and the owners are simply enjoying the increased profits -- and hesitant to bring the staffing up to normal simply because it cost them more money.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2022 8:36 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 541
Location: Australia
Dean,
If its not covid, it will be the war in Ukraine!
Anything Chinese is on a very slow boat!
I ordered some things on Ebay recently.
The express postage that would have cost a similar amount to the numbers you quoted, had delivery on the same date as the free post option.
Covid is on the increase in Australia.
There are now cruise ships arriving with many infected passengers.
We are having the coldest, wettest spring on record.
Floods all around. I have about 5ac out of 400ac under water.
Will need to rebuild about 400yards of the drive in.
Including a patch under the jeep! After a couple of rain free days & that bit is gone.

Those slide hammers are a bit cheap.
I had to weld new teeth on mine.
Its more cast chinesium than cast iron!
Cast iron welding rods worked eventually.
Good luck with your work!

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2022 3:51 pm 
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Thanks for the reply layback40,

I hear bits & pieces about covid re-emerging but I don't believe it much. I do believe big pharma and their puppet politicians are simply squeezing every drop of blood out the covid turnip. Australia took covid very seriously in the beginning by locking down completely. I'm surprised Australia is allowing all these Typhoid Marys off the cruise ships. Oy vey.

Rain! Rain! Rain! This is a function of global warming combined with La Nina. What a shame that the 5 acres (2 hectors) of the 400 (160) are the parts you use are the ones that flood. Will you have to drain the swamps or fill the low lands?

Hopefully you'll be able to get the Liberty beast fixed up and running.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2022 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2018 10:09 pm
Posts: 541
Location: Australia
CaptainDean wrote:
Thanks for the reply layback40,

I hear bits & pieces about covid re-emerging but I don't believe it much. I do believe big pharma and their puppet politicians are simply squeezing every drop of blood out the covid turnip. Australia took covid very seriously in the beginning by locking down completely. I'm surprised Australia is allowing all these Typhoid Marys off the cruise ships. Oy vey.

Rain! Rain! Rain! This is a function of global warming combined with La Nina. What a shame that the 5 acres (2 hectors) of the 400 (160) are the parts you use are the ones that flood. Will you have to drain the swamps or fill the low lands?

Hopefully you'll be able to get the Liberty beast fixed up and running.

Dean.


The state I live in (Victoria) has the record of the longest lockdown in the world, yes, we even beat China!
I do know someone who got it bad & ended up on O2.
State election in a week, so no increases to restrictions just yet.
About 1/3 of people in supermarket have masks on.
At least you dont have people standing too close in lines.

Flooding is an issue with a levee bank on a neighbor's place needing work.
Those with wetlands & swamps are happy as they are not so flooded. No big deal.
When I have water over drive, only 10" at worst, no one comes down drive complaining about the runoff from my place.

I try to use the units that are used in the USA on here. If I used degC, Ha, ltrs, $AU or km, would be too hard for some.

Slow progress with the jeep, WW is helping with good information! No ground on the MAP is current problem. I hope I dont need to send the ECM out for work.
At least yours is only mechanical now!

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006


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