Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Thanks GordnadoCRD,

I've used starting fluid before and ran a diesel too long on it. It took 3 years of daily driving before that engine ran strong.

I was planning to only give it a shot in the beginning for startup, then switch to diesel in a spray-paint container to run. However, I'll take your advise of using WD-40 for startup.

I'll have to remember to drop the starter button and pick up the diesel spray-paint bottle. I only have two hands -- I may not have the brainpower for the convenience of 3 hands.

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Payday is Friday. Today I ordered the final group of gaskets for this engine. Will remove the head and reinstall with new gaskets for head (2-holer), valve cover(?), exhaust manifold, turbo mount & oil return, and thermostat.

Sorry GordnadoCRD, I had to get new head bolts too. What a shame to waste yours on an engine for only a temporary installation. Bummer. Thanks for your generosity anyway.

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2018 7:29 pm

Hi Dean,
All the way from Australia !
I have a 2006 CRD 6 speed manual that has a problem with #4 .
Just about to lift motor out.
Have not decided if I will rebuild or just replace with a low mileage second hand engine.
I have a 2" square hole in the skirt just above the starter but have the piece of casting & are confident I can weld it back together. It appears a piece of the piston jammed between the rod bearing & the skirt & popped out a piece of casting. Looks like the piston has self destructed from the wrist pin down.
Have just read all this thread with much interest. You are an inspiration!
Looking forward to following & reading of a successful completion of your project.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Thanks LayBack40,

It is you who are an inspiration to me. This has been a long haul and I'm not looking forward to Nov 29 which will mark the 1-year anniversary of the breakdown. Thanks for the uplifting comments.

You still have a decision to make of whether to go the easy route or the long and painful one. I've rebuilt about a dozen ordinary engines and this one is the hardest. The guys in the forum have propped me up along the way and that has helped me tremendously to keep my head screwed on.

If you elect the difficult route of rebuilding your engine, I suggest starting by sawing the piston loose from the connecting rod and take the entire engine apart. Between the British VM Specialists and (American?) ID Parts, you can get anything you need to fire that beast up again.

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 19, 2018 8:43 am

Dean,
I spent hours reading through all of this thread.
A bit worrying in places. You are very tenacious & never give up.
You never posted a pic of the head face when it had been fixed. Would be interesting to see the after pic & compare with the before.
Your old piston would make a good paper clip holder at work. Give visitors something to start a conversation about.
I am sure everyone has their fingers crossed for when you start it!
I have not heard mention of Hylomar on here for sealing head gaskets. I swear by it for the times I have replaced heads on my XJ diesels (VM 425). The liner to head seal is the same. I have more than once used it on a reused head gasket with no problems.
Good luck with your rebuild !

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

When I take the head off for new gaskets, I'll post a 'before and after' shot of the work. The new gaskets should be here during the coming week.

Regarding the calamity piston, I am puzzled about not seeing it for the last couple months. I can't find the blown injector either.

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 11, 2018 10:36 pm

Hi Dean,
I have been doing a bit more investigation. My thoughts are written up in the thread about valve failure. I suspect the failures are related to the belt configuration. It was changed with the change from the ENR engine that we have to the ENS that is used in non USA KK & JK CRD's along with a few others. When you time yours it would be interesting to know if the exhaust cam & inlet cams are both spot on or if it is possible that the exhaust is slightly retarded.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Sorry for the absence, but I'm back. Finally got far enough along with my roof repairs that I will need the space where the Jeep Liberty sits for roof materials. This has elevated the Jeep project in the priority list.

Today I used some starting fluid (with lubrication) to run the engine on the stand. Only two starts and the engine revved for about 1 or 1.5 seconds each time. Also sprayed some diesel down the throat but it did not kick off. The times that it did run, it sounded good. Each report from the turbo exhaust sounded identical with no misfires nor odd noises.

That was good enough so I removed the head in preparation for tomorrow's re-assembly with fresh gaskets and head bolts. I will get some pictures of the repaired head just for the record.

layback40: I doubt I had any significant cam shaft timing issues. I checked it multiple times to ensure the gears were all correctly timed. Also ensured the cam shafts were aligned to the gears by checking the small bores for the timing pins. When I took it apart today I noticed a very slight misalignment of the exhaust cam to the gear. A quarter-tooth movement allowed the timing pin to thread into the hole. It has always puzzled me that these cam gears do not have keyway slots to perfectly align the gears to the cam shafts.

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 26, 2018 8:02 am

Great to hear it ran.
On the later engines (ENS) the belt only drives the inlet cam. The exhaust cam is driven by gears from the inlet cam. The 1/4 of a tooth misalignment I guess is not enough to cause interference.
Dont feel bad about not posting/ slow progress ! Mine has seen no work for a few weeks & wont get touched for a few more.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

layback40 wrote:

Dean, I spent hours reading through all of this thread. A bit worrying in places. You are very tenacious & never give up. You never posted a pic of the head face when it had been fixed. Would be interesting to see the after pic & compare with the before. Your old piston would make a good paper clip holder at work. Give visitors something to start a conversation about.

layback40,
Here are some pictures to synopsize the entire project (before and after shots). The events that took place are:
1. Previous owner did not replace the Water-in-fuel sensor.
2. New owner (me) did not realize it was missing.
3. Got water in fuel.
4. Tip blew off injector #3 allowing unregulated water and fuel into cylinder #3.
5. Water split into elemental components (H20) causing a Hydrogen explosion in cylinder #3.
6. Cylinder wall was a weak spot and blew a chunk out.
7. Post-explosion implosion sucked an exhaust valve into the cylinder and bounced it around a while.
8. Took 3 days to get my hair to lay back down again.

Tip blown of injector #3

One exhaust valve stem sticking up higher than the others (toward the back)

Cylinder #3

Piston #3

Bottom-side of #3 cylinder head

Repaired head

cylinder #4

repaired cylinder #3

cylinder #2

cylinder #1

Cylinders and piston tops

cylinder #1

cylinder #2

new #3 piston & sleeve

cylinder #4

Put the head and cam shafts back on yesterday, and got the timing belt installed.
I have seen several ideas about installing the cam gears, but this is the style I like.

idealistically, arrows pointing toward each other

arrows slightly lower but belt tight across top
When the arrows come together the engine is in the timing position

Fuel pump timing

Notch in gear at mark on engine

Crankshaft timing

Crank at 90° (my engine is tilted)

Timing gear tension

notch aligned with spring

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2018 4:56 pm

Great set of pics. Your machinist has done a great job. Have you replaced all of the exhaust valves?
it looks like the one that broke didnt break clean at the bottom of the stem (heat effected zone from weld between the stem & base of valve). Others I have seen have broken clean, yours appears to have a small part that was hanging on & eventually was torn off.
How have you dewatered your fuel system ~ tank & lines?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 27, 2018 10:51 pm

Absolute fine repair job on that head! Machinist should be commended...

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

The machinist (Akamai Machine, Darren Louis) is an excellent machinist. He grew up in his dad's shop and took it over when his dad retire (and died). "Akamai" is the Hawaiian work for "knowing" or "skilled".

Darren always does excellent work, but his timeliness to get a job finished is horrible. This head took several months.

He does excellent work so we have to take what we can get out here in the middle of the Pacific. We're actually very lucky to have Darren here, regardless of this throughput time frame.

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

With the new gaskets installed I did a compression test...
#1 380 PSI
#2 380 PSI
#3 380 PSI
#4 375 PSI
+/- 38 pounds is 10%, so I'm saying this is good.

Sprayed some starting fluid in the intake and revved the engine twice. It sounds good again. Sprayed some diesel down the intake too but again, it would not fire. Hopefully it got a little fuel oil into the cylinders. Finished the day by installing the turbocharger and thermostat.

Tomorrow I hope to install the intake elbow, timing cover and fan belt & accessories. Maybe set the engine in the engine bay tomorrow.

layback40: I still have to dewater the fuel. I plan to install a hose into the wheel well for a fuel/water drain. Will probably require a trip to the hardware store.

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 28, 2018 8:36 am

The biggest concern i have had in the past with water in fuel is condensation droplets that form on the inside of the roof of the tank. if you are lucky, by rocking the car a lot you can get the fuel in the tank to swish around & wash the condensation off into the fuel. Then draining the tank hopefully gets rid of all of it. With petrol fuel tanks you drain it, then put around 2 US gallons of mentholated spirits (methanol) in the tank. Swish it around so all the water dissolves. Then fill the tank with gas. Doing in this order makes the water/methanol mix dissolve in the gas & it will run through with no problems. I have not done this with a diesel fuel tank & dont know if it would work. An empty tank left out in the sun for a couple of days with the cap off may do the trick. You probably will find it interesting what you drain out of the tank. Dont forget to blow out all of the fuel lines.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Got the engine completely assembled including serpentine belt pulley parts, minus the alternator. Plan to place it in the vehicle tomorrow.

In the morning I'll use a transfer pump to draw the fuel out of the tank. I hope this does not damage the built-in fuel pump.

Tomorrow is also the 1-year anniversary of the breakdown.

Dean.

layback40 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2018 6:24 am

Unless yours is modified, there is no lift pump in the tank. You can suck away all you like & not damage things. To empty the tank, I have applied compressed air down the return line & Run the fuel out the supply line near the filter. You will hear the air coming out the tank vent, there is still enough pressure build up in the tank to maintain a flow out the supply pipe.
Good luck!

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

layback40 wrote:

Unless yours is modified, there is no lift pump in the tank. You can suck away all you like & not damage things.

layback40, Thank you very much !!

Around this time last year I was trying desperately to power-up the fuel pump to empty the tank. I eventually gave up. Only today did I notice that I was looking at the wrong wiring diagram. Also today I verified your statement of 'no pump in the fuel tank'.

Dean.

iakj11 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2018 10:51 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

Tomorrow is also the 1-year anniversary of the breakdown.

Dean.

Time flies when you are having fun! Thanks for sharing it with us! :POPCORN:

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

I took a few extra minutes and spray painted the black parts of the engine bay silver. I really don't like peering into a shady engine bay that is black -- I have the most difficult time seeing things.

Turns out the VHT brand high temperature engine paint (Aluminum) is remarkably identical to the Jeep silver color. It's close enough for the engine bay but I would test it closer for the body exterior.

Dean.

Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking

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