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Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=87478		 Page 33 of 55
Author:  CaptainDean [ Fri Sep 10, 2021 9:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Good job layback40 !!

I had a leak in the EGR at that same location, where the EGR pipe connects to the intake. I was not getting a code but there was soot throughout the engine bay from that leak. The EGR pipe is secured on the back of the engine with a 6mm bolt (10mm wrench) and clamp. If you wanted to remove the EGR pipe, you could wiggle it out of the clamp and wrestle the pipe out, but it's difficult without removing more stuff. ...and there's plenty more EGR stuff down on the intake-side of the block: EGR Valve, heat exchanger, cooling hoses.

While I had the engine out, I removed the EGR pipe, the 6mm nut, closed-off the exhaust port on the manifold, and removed the butterfly disk (Electronic Throttle Airflow Control Valve), and reconnected the air intake hose.

Dean.
Author:  WWDiesel [ Fri Sep 10, 2021 10:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Actually, the FCV (Flow Control Valve) has absolutely nothing to do with throttle control, that is strictly a function controlled by the ECM by the amount of fuel injected and boost levels to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio at any given RPM.
The only function of the FCV is to close off the butterfly plate under certain engine operating conditions to create a low pressure zone (slight vacuum) in the intake manifold to help facilitate allowing exhaust gas to be sucked into the intake manifold and then into the combustion chambers.
The MAF sensor provides air flow information to the ECM which determines how the FCV operates to inject exhaust gas. That is why many owners before delete kits came into being early on simply unplugged the MAF to prevent EGR operation or installed a blank in the exhaust feed tube.
The FCV also closed off when the engine was shut off to help bring it to a slightly quicker stop. This was determined by many as totally unnecessary and is never missed once totally removed or disabled.
It was also reported that the FCV would close off to help prevent an overrevving engine situation (runaway), but no one to date has reported any runaways with their FCV valve or butterfly totally removed.

Just wanted to set the record straight and did not want anyone thinking the FCV butterfly acted anything like a throttle plate on a gas powered engine.
It is a totally different animal.... :lol:

:SOMBRERO:
Author:  CaptainDean [ Sun Sep 12, 2021 12:45 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Thank you WWDiesel,

I did end up portraying the FCV as a gasser-style butterfly valve. Thanks for catching that, and sorry everyone for spouting inaccurate information.

Dean.
Author:  CaptainDean [ Sun Sep 12, 2021 2:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
CaptainDean wrote:
The beast is back together again, even the grill is on. HOWEVER...

I did make one tiny but huge mistake, I forgot to install the plug atop the oil pressure relief valve.
Image

Everything shown here is installed; what's not shown is the Allen head plug that pushes the whole mess down against the spring. I'm sure it's sitting in the "all flow to bypass" position so I'm not even going to attempt to start it until I fix this.

It is located against the upper sealing surface of the oil pan where I can Dremel a section out to gain access. I'll have to do a good job of sealing this incision to prevent any oil leaks.
Image

The sealing surface of the oil pan is wider at this point, so carving out an access hole will (maybe) not be a problem.

Has anyone attempted this before? If someone is having low oil pressure, this could be a fix for them.

Dean.

On a better note, I've had a part left over after completely assembling and installing my engine. Finally found where it goes -- it's the oil drain plug for the *other* 2006 CRD engine in the backyard. WHEW !!!
:BANANA: :pepper:

Here is the hole I carved in the lip of the oil pan with the Dremel tool to gain access to the Oil Relief Valve. The part didn't go there after all.
Image

Also, here is the patch I put over the hole I carved in the lip of the oil pan. Below the aluminum patch is PLENTY of silicone gasket maker and a 1/2" nut used as a spacer.
Image

Dean.
Author:  WWDiesel [ Sun Sep 12, 2021 10:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
I am so glad you caught that Dean, without the oil pressure relief plunger valve installed, I bet the oil pressure at startup would have been almost nothing. All the oil pressure would simply be bypassing all the critical components... :BANANA:
Author:  CaptainDean [ Mon Sep 13, 2021 1:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
WWDiesel,

I had an extra plug leftover on the bench after assembling and installing the engine. After cutting a hole in the oil pan to install it, I finally realized it didn't go there. It was actually the oil drain plug from the other VM engine in the backyard.

Dean.
Author:  CaptainDean [ Sat Sep 18, 2021 10:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Had some time today to bleed the brakes -- they were full of air. About a year ago I replaced the upper and lower ball joints and must have opened the brake lines. I had an old and cheap brake bleeding vacuum hand pump around. It wasn't the best but it got the job done. Brake pedal is nice & firm again.

Started the Jeep and drove down the road a ways but only got 2 houses down before it died twice. Managed to back it up and return to my parking spot. Found diesel around two of the injectors. I'll have to get a set of copper seals for the first two injectors. Finally, a problem that is easy to access !

Also found a leak in the cooling system. A rubber cap on the water pump had started to leak.
Image
This is the port that used to go to the EGR cooling heat exchanger that I capped when I removed the ERG system. Replaced the cap but the hose clamp is acting up. Tomorrow I'll get that straightened out.

Dean.
Author:  layback40 [ Sun Sep 19, 2021 3:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Hi Dean (& WW), I have a question.
There is a rubber (?) tube that runs the length of the engine starting at the back of the engine where there is a plastic bracket attached to the end of the inlet manifold, it initially has a 180 deg bend and then runs along the side of the head up to I think the injector pump. . Its about 1/2" diameter. What is its perpose? Should it be full of fuel? Should it have a hose clamp on the injector pump end?
While replacing my GP's it came off, I was able to push it back onto what ever fitting is there for it. I think I now have an air leak that is causing long cranking to start. Probably if I remove the alternator I can get a look at what it attaches to and put a hose clamp on it.
Your thoughts on what it is for and if it should have a hose clamp would be greatly appreciated.
Author:  WWDiesel [ Sun Sep 19, 2021 4:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
My first thought is fuel injection pump CP3 return off the cascade overflow valve fuel line that goes from the injection pump back to the 4 way plastic block where the fuel return goes back to the fuel tank. That is the only fuel line that runs in the area you described.
See diagram.

Image
Author:  layback40 [ Sun Sep 19, 2021 4:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
WWDiesel wrote:
My first thought is fuel injection pump CP3 return off the cascade overflow valve fuel line that goes from the injection pump back to the 4 way plastic block where the fuel return goes back to the fuel tank. That is the only fuel line that runs in the area you described.
See diagram.

Image



That looks like it.
Its a large diameter hose for a fuel overflow/return.
Looks like it should have a hose clamp on it.
One would think it would be full of fuel.
There is no signs of a fuel leak around where it connects to the pump.
When the weather improves here, I will have a look closer.Thanks WW.
Author:  WWDiesel [ Sun Sep 19, 2021 4:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Yes it is a large pipe about 1/2 OD
It is never has much pressure on it
It is simply a return line
The only time it has flow in it is when the engine is running
Author:  CaptainDean [ Sun Sep 19, 2021 9:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
layback40,

I like to have hose clamps on every rubber hose. If it is reachable, I suggest to put a clamp on it.

The steel connection for that hose on the pump is removable. It's a large banjo connection that uses a 17mm or 19mm wrench. Once off you can reconnect the hose to the steel tubing and install a hose clamp. The problem is having to work on something that you cannot see. It's do-able, but I'm sure you'll affect the rotation of the Earth with all the expletives shooting out of Australia.

Both times I had the engine out, I wanted to cut away at that large mounting bracket for the alternator and fuel pump.
Image
I never did, but I should have at least drilled a 1-inch or larger hole in the bracket. Painting mine yellow was a big help.

Dean.
Author:  CaptainDean [ Sun Sep 19, 2021 9:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
I drove mine around the block twice today. Mostly it ran good but hesitated at the same location each time around the block. It's where the road turns upward with a steep hill. When the transmission downshifted, the engine hesitated. Last time around it shut down there.

A similar thing happened 3 years ago when the Jeep would stall when in drive and just a little fuel pedal applied. In reverse it's fine. Turned out to be a ground connection for the transmission. I'm suspecting something similar this time.

Going through the book, I see a table of Connector/Splice/Ground Locations, I see the term "T/O". Does anyone know what that refers to?
Image

Dean.
Author:  WWDiesel [ Sun Sep 19, 2021 9:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
LOCATIONS
Section 8W-91 contains connector/ground/splice location illustrations. The illustrations contain the connector name (or number)/ground number/splice number and component identification. Connector/ground/splice location charts in section 8W-91 reference the figure numbers of the illustrations.
The abbreviation T/O is used in the component location section to indicate a point in which the wiring harness branches out to a component.
The abbreviation N/S means Not Shown in the illustrations.

I suspect it means "Terminal Output"? :idea:
Author:  CaptainDean [ Mon Sep 20, 2021 3:22 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Thanks WWDiesel,

That was just enough information to give me a better perspective on Figure 31. I will dig into the area around the left headlight for a closer look.
Image

Dean.
Author:  layback40 [ Mon Sep 20, 2021 7:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Thanks for that pic Dean.
It saves me wasting time removing the alternator.
You appear to have a lot of corrosion.
That idler pully tells a story.
I guess that comes from being near the coast.
I may try a fuel pump to see if it improves things.
Some where in the shed I have an inline electric one.
When I next see it, I will try a tempery set up near the filter inlet.
Great to hear ts running.
Author:  CaptainDean [ Mon Sep 20, 2021 10:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Glad you like the idea layback40,

That picture is really from a donor vehicle that I got the other 2006 CRD engine. That vehicle has been sitting in someone's yard for a couple years on the windward side of the island. It was the only picture I had of that huge mounting bracket. My engine is painted yellow.

Regarding an external fuel lift pump, my CRD has an electric pump mounted outside the tank and seems to work fine. I just found a place to power it whereas it turns on when the ignition is turned on, and turns off about 5 seconds after the ignition is turned off.

I'll post a picture and description later.

Dean.
Author:  CaptainDean [ Tue Sep 21, 2021 1:16 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
layback40,

Here is where I tappped into power to run the external fuel pump.
Image

And the pin I stuffed a small ring terminal into.
Image

And here is the style of external pump that was already installed in the Jeep. A Facet brand Electronic Fuel Pump.
Image

Dean.
Author:  layback40 [ Tue Sep 21, 2021 6:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
CaptainDean wrote:
And here is the style of external pump that was already installed in the Jeep. A Facet brand Electronic Fuel Pump.


Dean.



Thats the type I have some where in my shed.
Its on my to do list.
Author:  CaptainDean [ Tue Sep 21, 2021 11:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
Excellent. This one has been working fine. The only problem was the wiring the last owner did.

Dean.
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