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 Post subject: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 8:16 am 
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I have an issue that start with a small amount of fluid being used just after I bought my CRD with 150k miles on it. I had thought it just needed a top off but then after six months on a trip it went bad.

What I have noticed and is that from what I can tell it it blowing it out of the bottom reservoir. Small trips around town doesnt seem to bother it much but take a 20 miles drive on the highway and it starts blowing it out. I have put some UV dye in the system and there is nothing coming from the tail pipe and it doesnt blow steam. A small road trip right now will result in loosing a gallon or so and it will bubble for awhile until the engine cools off

I have a EGR Stage 1 kit that it came with and my next step is to do the stage 2 and eliminate that possibility. Coolant stop leak did hold it for a couple weeks.

After the engine cools down pressure still hold and maintains for quite some time in the reservoir.

I hope its not a head gasket.

Does anyone have anymore troubleshooting angles to try?

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 4:32 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Isn't there a test kit for combustion products in the coolant?
https://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

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GM 12611872
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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:56 pm 
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Interesting, thank you.

My coolant is green so Ill have to look further into the product.

As of today the entire EGR system is removed. At least I will now know if the EGR cooler was the problem. From here on out its all engine.


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 9:19 pm 
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danruesch wrote:
Interesting, thank you.
My coolant is green so Ill have to look further into the product.
As of today the entire EGR system is removed. At least I will now know if the EGR cooler was the problem. From here on out its all engine.

If your coolant is "green", it is not the correct coolant for a Jeep CRD engine. :shock:
It requires Hoat ZEREX G-05 Antifreeze/Coolant which is a kinda golden color!

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 10:41 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
or genuine Mopar, which is a kinda orange color.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 10:21 am 
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Ill have to check that. I used universal from OReilly auto.


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 3:31 pm 
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I messed around scratching my head and the Jeep leaving puddles for a few weeks and I finally took it to a small diesel shop that just opened. It sat there two weeks and I eventually moved it to another shop across the parking lot due after the first place just couldn't stand up to their promises of working on it.

The second shop pulled the head and at that point was obvious that the head gasket was leaking. The head got 6 thousands removed as it was tweaked and a valve job was done. I went with ARP head studs so this doesn't happen again. Even though the previous owner only put the Green Diesel Economy tune on it, it may have been enough to lift the head.

Once the valve cover has all the soot removed, it will be back together and on the road. It was hard to believe the thing even ran due to all the build of of soot from EGR in the manifold. The passageways wouldnt pass cleaning solution on two cylinders The Jeep had a EGR delete but obviously it built up before then. EGR is bad for Diesels!

All said and done with labor, machine work, head gasket kit and ARP studs its just under 2k.


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 4:37 pm 
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danruesch wrote:
The Jeep had a EGR delete but obviously it built up before then. EGR is bad for Diesels!

Amen brother, an understatement if there ever was one!
Anyone still running an active EGR that has not been blanked off or totally eliminated with the Weeks elbow kit is begging for problems from either the soot buildup in the intake or soot contamination in the engine oil which can cause detrimental wear on engine internal moving parts. :grim:
And NO tune can completely eliminate and guarantee no leak by of the EGR valve. Only one of the above can do that!

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Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
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Carter Intank-pmp
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V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 4:42 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Sounds like you've nailed the Head Gasket problem down.

Quote:
Once the valve cover has all the soot removed, it will be back together and on the road. It was hard to believe the thing even ran due to all the build of of soot from EGR in the manifold. The passageways wouldnt pass cleaning solution on two cylinders The Jeep had a EGR delete but obviously it built up before then. EGR is bad for Diesels!

GDE does great work, but using software to disable EGR doesn't really disable EGR. All it does is "not use it". It is still there and fully functional. To actually truly disable it, you would have to remove the egr completely and install Weeks kits 1 and 2 .
OR
1 - disconnect the exhaust bypass tube at the EGR end, and fashion and install a blockoff plate
OR
2 - use and install a pre-fabbed exhaust blockoff plate OR

3 - While you have the head removed, take the elbow from between the FCV and the intake manifold, and the exhaust manifold, as it has been removed from the head. Both of these devices have ports where the steel bypass line connects the EXHAUST manifold from the INTAKE ELBOW. Have both of them tapped 3/4 NPT Use a high temperature sealant and an allen type plug to plug them from the inside. You can then use or discard the EGR mess as you wish. You will definitely want to remove the FCV valve butterfly from inside the valve if you opt to keep the EGR mess in place.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 4:55 pm 
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There isnt an EGR part, hose, cooler, or line left on my Jeep now. Its naked with Simco hoses.

Also just found our the lifters are stuck too, add another 370 to the total.

Dan


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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 5:19 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
danruesch wrote:
There isnt an EGR part, hose, cooler, or line left on my Jeep now. Its naked with Simco hoses.

Also just found our the lifters are stuck too, add another 370 to the total.

Dan
"Lifters", particularly those that don't move, do fail. Usually by the cup sticking.

A+

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2018 6:20 pm 
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Location: north central Nebraska
danruesch wrote:
There isnt an EGR part, hose, cooler, or line left on my Jeep now. Its naked with Simco hoses.

Also just found our the lifters are stuck too, add another 370 to the total.

Dan


Please explain 'stuck'. I may be missing something! Are you talking about the amount of travel the plunger within the body can move? (which isn't much).. or the body itself which doesn't move anyway, (sits on the bottom of the bore of the head)

Mine may be junk after all! I can only get 'maybe' 1/16 inch 'travel' using pretty good hand force. (lone lash adjuster, sans rocker... against a hard surface, and me pushing down on the stem) Mine are also full of oil too (pumped up) Brand new ones that haven't been filled with oil would probably react differently to same 'checking procedure'.
I figured there was some sort of check ball gizmo(within each lash adjuster) that maintained a certain 'pressure'... which kept the adjusters from bleed off @ shut down... and a resulting clackety engine upon restart... hence the 'locked' or 'stuck' appearance of the lash adjuster. That is also why they need to be put back in their original holes when removed. They are 'adjusted' for the location they came from... and going backwards in length if necessary, takes time/ several revolutions. This engine has no clearance for this to take place.

edit to add;
Just confirmed my thoughts. Yes, a pumped up (previously run and removed lash adjuster) will seem 'stuck'. No amount of HAND pressure will hardly move it within it's body. OP may want to double check before throwing away another 350 bucks.
Placing mine in a vice, with a 1/4 inch nut for a pocket so the ball end won't bottom against the vice jaw... I got the oil to come back out the supply orifice, and out the top of the ball. Nice and slow. Now I have a little more than a 1/4 inch of just internal spring resistance. And it's nice and easy to move by hand.
I'll be able to put these lash adjusters back in any position now and not worry about an adjuster being too 'tall'. My grandson got into my egg carton organization of rockers/adjusters, and got them all mixed up!

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11-3-14 oem stat installed
11-5-14 gen II FH installed.
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80,500 miles, engine is disassembled, awaiting parts 3/18
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 Post subject: Re: Coolant Leak
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 9:58 am 
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I replaced them all with the newer versions, yes dumped more money into it. About 6 lifters were solid. Maybe they could have be released or something but the mechanic did feel comfortable doing that and ended up damaging a valve.

After it was all back and running, it worked for a few trips then things went back. I started a new post. Looks like its coming back apart to look at pistons.


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