Grinding/metallic noise from front

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

Hey folks,

Im a relatively new Liberty owner so wanted to bounce this problem off of some more knowledgeable folks than myself! I have a 2005 3.7v6 4wd Liberty with 117k miles. I currently have a noise that sounds like a metallic rubbing noise. I thought this sounded like a dragging brake as it appears noisier with higher speeds. Now I find myself quite often having a much harsher noise, almost like gears slipping. This only happens when pulling away and is loud enough that pedestrians on the street turn to look. Usually it will eventually make a "groaning" noise for a second or two and then jerk slightly before going silent, almost as if whatever was slipping became re-engaged. I have noted in my testing that when shifting into part time 4wd the noise will stop immediately.

The noise only comes from the front of the vehicle. Once I felt vibrations in the pedals, but usually nothing. The vehicle itself does not appear to have any other symptoms other than the noise. I got up under the car for a few mins earlier and the driveshaft boots appear to be intact. The CV boots also appear to be in good condition. My current thinking based on what I have read on here is that the intermediate shaft is a prime suspect for stripping its splines. Would this sound like the most likely culprit? And can anyone recommend a P/N to replace them? I understand that there have been some manufacturers making shafts the incorrect size.

Thanks for your help!

APC9199 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 16, 2019 1:50 am

It could be a number of things, really. Never trust noises in a Liberty. I have had multiple occasions where the noise was coming from the complete opposite corner of the vehicle that I was SURE it was coming from.

Usually getting the wheels off the ground and turning everything by hand can pinpoint where the problem is coming from. The intermediate shaft doesn't sound likely since there is no real pressure on it when the vehicle is not in 4WD. It should get WORSE in 4WD as torque is applied to the intermediate shaft.

The behavior you're describing almost sounds like a failing or failed shift selector bushing for the 4WD system. Its almost like it is attempting to engage the 4WD when it isn't supposed to, then suddenly jerks and releases. Crawl under the Jeep on the driver side about mid-ship and look for a linkage next to the rear end of the front prop shaft. Make sure the end of it is firmly attached without any slop. Have someone gently pull up and down on the 4WD shift lever while you watch it and look for any abnormal movement or slop. Also, while you're there, double check the rubber boot on the rear end of the prop shaft for any damage. Then, raise the front wheels off the ground and spin the prop shaft by hand to feel for binding or grinding. That shaft is a very common failure point for a lot of people. Some have had luck with rebuild kits, but OEM replacements or reliable third party replacements are much more consistent. Some here can probably chime in with what works and what doesn't. I'm one of the successful rebuilds, so I can't comment!

Let us know if those checks turn up anything...

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

APC9199 wrote:

It could be a number of things, really. Never trust noises in a Liberty. I have had multiple occasions where the noise was coming from the complete opposite corner of the vehicle that I was SURE it was coming from.

Usually getting the wheels off the ground and turning everything by hand can pinpoint where the problem is coming from. The intermediate shaft doesn't sound likely since there is no real pressure on it when the vehicle is not in 4WD. It should get WORSE in 4WD as torque is applied to the intermediate shaft.

The behavior you're describing almost sounds like a failing or failed shift selector bushing for the 4WD system. Its almost like it is attempting to engage the 4WD when it isn't supposed to, then suddenly jerks and releases. Crawl under the Jeep on the driver side about mid-ship and look for a linkage next to the rear end of the front prop shaft. Make sure the end of it is firmly attached without any slop. Have someone gently pull up and down on the 4WD shift lever while you watch it and look for any abnormal movement or slop. Also, while you're there, double check the rubber boot on the rear end of the prop shaft for any damage. Then, raise the front wheels off the ground and spin the prop shaft by hand to feel for binding or grinding. That shaft is a very common failure point for a lot of people. Some have had luck with rebuild kits, but OEM replacements or reliable third party replacements are much more consistent. Some here can probably chime in with what works and what doesn't. I'm one of the successful rebuilds, so I can't comment!

Let us know if those checks turn up anything...

Thanks for the advice! I finally got around to taking a look and when spinning the shaft by hand the noise is clearly coming from the rear joint in the prop shaft. Will be picking up a rebuild kit and trying to get it repaired. Anything special to keep in mind when doing it?

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

So I was going to pick up a kit at NAPA or similar, but realized that driveshaftparts.com has the parts for much cheaper. Is it worth getting the kits for both ends and replacing them both at the same time?

https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.p ... ption=true
https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.p ... ption=true

For an extra $26 it seems like cheap insurance, but Im not sure if the front is ever a problem anyway?

lfhoward · **Posted:** Tue Mar 19, 2019 6:53 pm

Good instructions & pictures here:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=56917

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

lfhoward wrote:

Good instructions & pictures here:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=56917

Thanks for the link, the parts should be here tomorrow so hopefully will take care of it this weekend!

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

I have seen it mentioned in several places that it is safe to remove the front propshaft and drive in 2WD. I have a long drive (1800 mile round trip) coming up, would this be an excessive distance to run without the front shaft? I wouldnt want to screw up the transfer because of running too long without the shaft in.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 21, 2019 10:25 pm

deftone wrote:

I have seen it mentioned in several places that it is safe to remove the front propshaft and drive in 2WD. I have a long drive (1800 mile round trip) coming up, would this be an excessive distance to run without the front shaft? I wouldnt want to screw up the transfer because of running too long without the shaft in.

You can remove and drive the Jeep without the front driveshaft as long as you desire with no danger to any of the components.
It will not hurt the transfer case....

APC9199 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 22, 2019 9:30 am

My only suggestion, if doing the rebuild kit, it to clean everything religiously when you take it apart...including the replacement parts! When my rebuild kit showed up, the replacement cv joint end had all kinds of what looked like chewed up cardboard or particleboard all over it. I can't imagine it would have lasted long with that crud in there and I wonder if that is the reason that others have had issues with the rebuild kits. Also, I opted not to use the grease that was supplied with the kit and instead bought a high quality grease from NAPA to use instead. The grease supplied with the kit came in an accordion tube that looked like it was about as secure as a paper bag. I can't imagine it was Grade-A stuff.

Just be meticulous and take your time with it and it should work out fine!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 22, 2019 12:12 pm

Just like APC9199 stated, there should be no contaminants in the grease or CV Joint.
and
Any grease that is used to repack a CV joint when rebuilding or installing a new CV joint should be of the following type and meet the required specifications.

CV JOINT GREASE
NLGI #2 grade lithium complex grease fortified with molybdenum disulfide and polymers.
Normally it is a dark color and has a smooth, buttery texture. It is water resistant, has excellent oxidation and mechanical stability, and protects against corrosion.

:juggle:

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

Thanks for the advice, looks like I won’t get it rebuilt this weekend, perhaps Monday. I will for sure go and get some good grease.

I did manage to pull the shaft off today and sure enough turning that back joint is like turning a bag of rocks. Driving without the shaft in and the noise is totally gone, so at least I know we have the problem identified!

Unfortunately my speedometer just started intermittently failing for 10-20seconds at a time so I guess I’m changing the sensor for that too! Is that a common fault on the Liberty?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2019 8:25 am

deftone wrote:

Thanks for the advice, looks like I won’t get it rebuilt this weekend, perhaps Monday. I will for sure go and get some good grease.
I did manage to pull the shaft off today and sure enough turning that back joint is like turning a bag of rocks. Driving without the shaft in and the noise is totally gone, so at least I know we have the problem identified!
Unfortunately my speedometer just started intermittently failing for 10-20 seconds at a time so I guess I’m changing the sensor for that too! Is that a common fault on the Liberty?

you have no signature,
If yours is an 05, the speed sensor is located on top of the rear differential housing. Not sure how the 06's function, they are different.

Rear axle speed sensor -- PN: 56041393AA

vwroad87 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 23, 2019 12:25 pm

The 06's rely on the two electronic transmission sensors, one for the input shaft speed and one for the output shaft speed. The two sensor share a common circuit, don't use Dorman sensors if you replace them, they don't work just ask me.

dp

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

Thanks for the heads up on the P/N for the speed sensor. My Liberty is indeed an 05.

This forum has been great for help so far! Keep up the good work!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 24, 2019 11:39 am

deftone wrote:

Thanks for the heads up on the P/N for the speed sensor. My Liberty is indeed an 05.
This forum has been great for help so far! Keep up the good work!

It would be very helpful for people answering your questions in the future if you would update your signature with vehicle info. :wink:

Simply click on "User Control Panel" in the top right to access.

deftone · **Joined:** Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:33 pm **Posts:** 11

WWDiesel wrote:

deftone wrote:

Thanks for the heads up on the P/N for the speed sensor. My Liberty is indeed an 05.
This forum has been great for help so far! Keep up the good work!

It would be very helpful for people answering your questions in the future if you would update your signature with vehicle info. :wink:

Simply click on "User Control Panel" in the top right to access.

I just filled it in, unfortunately not as interesting as yours....yet!

I just got back from my long road trip with the Jeep. All went well except I obviously have some suspension inspections to perform as high speed handling was quite alarming! When turning left the wheel wanted to turn sharper than the amount I was turning it, and then when straightening out it would give quite a violent side to side shimmy, almost as if something was loose. Eyeballing the wheels it does look like there is an excessive camber on the front wheels. Could this be a result of the last owner running larger wheels/tires and then swapping back to originals when it was sold? Or should there be something else I am looking for?

It’s pouring with rain here right now, so won’t have a chance to inspect until tomorrow, but interested in what I find. Might be buying that lift Kit earlier than planned :-)r

APC9199 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:33 pm

Your instability at high speed is most likely a failed or failing rear upper control arm or "boomerang". I believe the new MOOG replacements are acceptable, though the old ones were not. OEM is the best choice for maintaining the original configuration. If you want a true upgrade, go to the CRD Tech section of the forum and find the post regarding the Ironrock Rear Upper Control Arm Upgrade. Many people have adopted it with great results. WWDiesel can supply more information including info about the special mounting bracket that is required to mount it correctly.

Also, check your ball joints! If they are OEM, they are almost guaranteed to have failed. If they are OEM replacements, they are almost guaranteed to have failed. If they ARE failed, replace them with high quality greasable ones. Rockauto or any reliable parts supplier like IDparts will have them. Get an alignment after replacing anything necessary and see how it rides!

Walston · **Joined:** Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:14 am **Posts:** 10

That part number says it is the ABS speed sensor. Can it cause the speedometer to not work?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat May 18, 2019 11:38 am

Walston wrote:

That part number says it is the ABS speed sensor. Can it cause the speedometer to not work?

On 05's the speed sensor for the speedometer is on top of the rear differential.
I think the 06's use the ABS wheel sensors?

Walston · **Joined:** Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:14 am **Posts:** 10

Walston wrote:

That part number says it is the ABS speed sensor. Can it cause the speedometer to not work?

The answer is YES. I replaced the sensor on my 2002 and the speedometer works again.

Grinding/metallic noise from front

Who is online