Any good tips or references? My rockers are starting to rust and this might be a spring project. I am not sure what stock would be best at this point. I have a welder and a plasma cutter. This would be a good first project.

I will want to tie it in to the main rail closer inward.

I will likely weld on little steps too (for the wife, kids, and loading of the roof rack). Any other ideas or any good examples?

Been done a couple of times
But you have to cut your rail at an angle, they are not even all the way from front to back

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

When you say "they are not even all the way from front to back" do you mean the mating surface which is vertical or horizontal?

2 points come to mind, I'm sure you've seen them already:

They aren't 'flat/smooth', in that they have contours bent in for rigidity.

(I don't think this second point is relevant to the rockers, other than measuring/locating the 'new' rockers into position as you're building them into the underbody).
The distance between the unibody 'frame' and the rocker is different at the front of the rocker compared to the rear of the rocker.
I didn't realize how much the distance between the 'frame' and rocker changed until I was under there fabbing up sliders, and looking for attachment points.

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'06 Liberty Limited CRD.
135K miles.
- Timing belt done.
- Weeks Kit Stage 1.
- Weeks Kit Stage 2.
- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
- Weeks supplied Samco Intercooler Hoses and clamps.

Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.

Thanks for the tips. It wont be till fall that I take this on so that I can gain practice with the plasma cutter / welder. I will consider these things when anticipating the project.

iN THE RUST BELT, i'D USE STAINLESS. It's not that much more expensive or hard to work with

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700

I figured it would be very expensive but I will check that and aluminum. I have a TIG and can weld aluminum. I am making a safari / timber rack that will be aluminum.

One must be careful about using stainless with regular steel. It creates galvanic corrosion, a voltage accelerated corrosion caused by the dissimilar metals. The stainless would be fine but the steel would want to rust much faster. The ultimate would be to take it and get it hot dipped in zinc.

I never had any galvanic reactions when I welded stainless to mild steel. I do it all the time on mower decks and a lot of other stuff. Sometimes I use stainless filler and sometimes I use 7018 or up to 11018.

If there is a sheet metal shop close buy that does a lot of stainless they might sell you scraps for a reasonable price. Look for somebody that works in factories or food processing that uses a lot of stainless.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700