ESP/BAS ESC with engine stall

SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD with 198k on the odometer. I live in western washington and I was on my way to work yesterday and exiting the highway when my ESP/BAS light came on along with ESC (both lights staying on after a failed restart) and the engine completely stalled out. I was traveling at normal speed, slowing normally, light rain on the road...

After sitting for about 5 minutes with hazards on and key off I started up again. Only light on was the check engine light. I didnt start it until 330pm and she fired right up with no lights... Should I be concerned?

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 08, 2019 1:00 pm

SalvageGurl wrote:

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD with 198k on the odometer. I live in western washington and I was on my way to work yesterday and exiting the highway when my ESP/BAS light came on along with ESC (both lights staying on after a failed restart) and the engine completely stalled out. I was traveling at normal speed, slowing normally, light rain on the road...
After sitting for about 5 minutes with hazards on and key off I started up again. Only light on was the check engine light. I didnt start it until 330pm and she fired right up with no lights... Should I be concerned?
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You should have it scanned and post the DTC (codes)
This will provide more information for a better understanding and diagnosing of the problem.
Most big box parts stores will scan for free. Only problem is, most of their scanners will not scan for ESP issues.
But the engine stalling should have set some kind of readable ECM code.

2006's also have a history of wiring harness chaffing behind the fuel filter head on the firewall that you may want to check and make sure is not a problem. :idea:

SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

WWDiesel wrote:

SalvageGurl wrote:

I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD with 198k on the odometer. I live in western washington and I was on my way to work yesterday and exiting the highway when my ESP/BAS light came on along with ESC (both lights staying on after a failed restart) and the engine completely stalled out. I was traveling at normal speed, slowing normally, light rain on the road...
After sitting for about 5 minutes with hazards on and key off I started up again. Only light on was the check engine light. I didnt start it until 330pm and she fired right up with no lights... Should I be concerned?
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

You should have it scanned and post the DTC (codes)
This will provide more information for a better understanding and diagnosing of the problem.
Most big box parts stores will scan for free. Only problem is, most of their scanners will not scan for ESP issues.
But the engine stalling should have set some kind of readable ECM code.

2006's also have a history of wiring harness chaffing behind the fuel filter head on the firewall that you may want to check and make sure is not a problem. :idea:

THANK YOU! I will hit O'Reilly or Autozone and get the codes..

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SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

So, the code it is throwing is PO339. 'Crank Shaft position sensor a circuit intermittent '... On my way back from errands today it happened again and I was again on the side of I5... no damsel in distress here... waited another 5 minutes and I was off and running!

Made appointment with Jeep for wednesday... see what codes they pull up... I'll keep you all posted

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 08, 2019 10:30 pm

SalvageGurl wrote:

So, the code it is throwing is PO339. 'Crank Shaft position sensor a circuit intermittent '... On my way back from errands today it happened again and I was again on the side of I5... no damsel in distress here... waited another 5 minutes and I was off and running!
Made appointment with Jeep for wednesday... see what codes they pull up... I'll keep you all posted
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Replace the crank sensor or have it replaced. They are notorious for going bad and putting you on the side of the road until they cool off a bit.
Mine put me on the side of the road twice with no codes set before I replaced it.

Autozone has a re boxed OEM Bosch sensor Duralast (Bosch part in box) Part Number: SU8492 for a decent price.
They can be changed from underneath the vehicle, plenty of info on this forum as to how to.

SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

Soooo... I should just do that? Of course jeep wants to charge me 139$ just for the visit... when I told him the codes it was throwing he said "there's probably something else happening, those machines don't get all codes... bring it in we will diagnose it"... I am pretty handy... I'll save myself the money and just try it... I mean why else would it have that code if it wasn't it? Right? THANK YOU WWDIESEL

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jul 10, 2019 10:14 am

SalvageGurl wrote:

Soooo... I should just do that? Of course jeep wants to charge me 139$ just for the visit... when I told him the codes it was throwing he said "there's probably something else happening, those machines don't get all codes... bring it in we will diagnose it"... I am pretty handy... I'll save myself the money and just try it... I mean why else would it have that code if it wasn't it? Right? THANK YOU WWDIESEL

Need help or advice, just ask!
Let us know how it turns out.

This is what you will be changing:
On right side of engine from underneath, remove the heat shield, then disconnect the Crankshaft Sensor connector, then remove the allen head bolt on the sensor itself.
Once you remove the allen head hold down bolt, simply twist the sensor back and forth while pulling on it and it should pop right out.
NOTE: It can be done without dropping exhaust pipe.
Install is simply reverse of removal.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:56 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

SalvageGurl wrote:

Soooo... I should just do that? Of course jeep wants to charge me 139$ just for the visit... when I told him the codes it was throwing he said "there's probably something else happening, those machines don't get all codes... bring it in we will diagnose it"... I am pretty handy... I'll save myself the money and just try it... I mean why else would it have that code if it wasn't it? Right? THANK YOU WWDIESEL

Need help or advice, just ask!
Let us know how it turns out.

This is what you will be changing:
On right side of engine from underneath, remove the heat shield, then disconnect the Crankshaft Sensor connector, then remove the allen head bolt on the sensor itself.
Once you remove the allen head hold down bolt, simply twist the sensor back and forth while pulling on it and it should pop right out.
NOTE: It can be done without dropping exhaust pipe.
Install is simply reverse of removal.

WWDiesel is correct.
FFI (for future information)
There MIGHT be a single handful of dealerships nationwide who have the first smidgen of a clue when it comes to the CRD Libbies.
Most don't even know such a thing existed, and, if anything, think the only factory Jeep diesels are the 3.0 V6s.

Remember also, with a diesel, most engine work that it needs, will be preventive. ie. Replacing things on a schedule BEFORE they have failed.

This is especially important with the timing belt and associated components.
From when they are installed, they are on a time/mileage countdown to failure.
Recommended replacement interval is 6 years or 100K miles.
If it was serviced correctly, your Jeep is near approaching it's second replacement interval. If you have no record of when this was last done, it should be done as soon as possible, so you won't be driving at night without lights, and you will know without any doubt where the countdown timer stands.
Timing belt failure costs thousands.
At 200ishK miles, while doing the timing belt, it's also a good time to remove the Intake "Camifold" and check the condition of the roller cam followers. The wear on these varies with the quality of oil used in its history, and the faithfulness to a proper oil change schedule.
If you can afford ARP head studs, this is also the perfect time to install those, BEFORE the head gasket fails.

Again, all this is on the "safer" assumption that these haven't been already addressed. If you know for an absolute FACT that they have, and WHEN, then proceed with the knowledge that you have, :rockon:

and enjoy

!

SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

I've been underneath this thing for quite some time now! I cannot figure how to unclip the crankshaft positioning sensor from it's male part! I'm about to lose my mind. Clip started to crumble in my hands... I need to put fresh eyes on it in the morning and find schematics on how the male and female come together... and how in heavens name does the CPS come out of the metal clip it rests in... I'll search here to see what I can find... direction would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 12, 2019 1:31 am

SalvageGurl wrote:

I've been underneath this thing for quite some time now! I cannot figure how to unclip the crankshaft positioning sensor from it's male part! I'm about to lose my mind. Clip started to crumble in my hands... I need to put fresh eyes on it in the morning and find schematics on how the male and female come together... and how in heavens name does the CPS come out of the metal clip it rests in... I'll search here to see what I can find... direction would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all!

Take the bolt out of the metal clip and let the whole wiring harness drop down with the CPS after you get the sensor removed from out of the block.
The clip is only holding the CPS connector for the sensor. The sensor is in the side of the block.
See the picture I posted, it shows it clearly.

SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

So... the piece that will not come apart is the male end that comes from the wiring harness... I'll try to figure out how to post a pic of what I mean

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 12, 2019 4:56 pm

SalvageGurl wrote:

So... the piece that will not come apart is the male end that comes from the wiring harness... I'll try to figure out how to post a pic of what I mean

Some of these type of connectors on this vehicle have a little red locking device on the connector that must be pulled out about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch first before the connector will release the male from the female part of the connector and allow them to be pulled apart.

SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

IT'S ALIVE!!!! :pepper:

All set fellas! It was a little trying but I did it... now... problem 2... while Agnus was up on ramps with the e-brake on... the right rear caliper froze... or something... I've know for a bit that it (or rotors) has been warped... but evidently something went wonky while in the ramp position... so, next step... rear calipers, rotors and pads... I'll see you on another topic!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jul 13, 2019 8:46 am

SalvageGurl wrote:

IT'S ALIVE!!!! :pepper:

All set fellas! It was a little trying but I did it... now... problem 2... while Agnus was up on ramps with the e-brake on... the right rear caliper froze... or something... I've know for a bit that it (or rotors) has been warped... but evidently something went wonky while in the ramp position... so, next step... rear calipers, rotors and pads... I'll see you on another topic!

Great! Glad you got er done. :-)r

Now as to the rear brakes; these vehicles have regular old fashioned brake "shoes" inside the rotors for the emergency brakes.
So, if the emergency brake froze up or locked up, it is most likely not a caliper, but either an emergency brake cable or one of the emer. brake shoe activation mechanisms are stuck.
The emer. brake activation mechanisms can be viewed on the back of the backing plates and you can spray them down good with some penetrating oil which might free them up.
There is a slotted opening for adjusting the emer. brake shoes with a brake spoon on the backing plate on each of the rear brakes.

SalvageGurl · **Joined:** Sun Jul 07, 2019 2:07 pm **Posts:** 9

WWDiesel wrote:

SalvageGurl wrote:

IT'S ALIVE!!!! :pepper:

All set fellas! It was a little trying but I did it... now... problem 2... while Agnus was up on ramps with the e-brake on... the right rear caliper froze... or something... I've know for a bit that it (or rotors) has been warped... but evidently something went wonky while in the ramp position... so, next step... rear calipers, rotors and pads... I'll see you on another topic!

Great! Glad you got er done. :-)r

Now as to the rear brakes; these vehicles have regular old fashioned brake "shoes" inside the rotors for the emergency brakes.
So, if the emergency brake froze up or locked up, it is most likely not a caliper, but either an emergency brake cable or one of the emer. brake shoe activation mechanisms are stuck.
The emer. brake activation mechanisms can be viewed on the back of the backing plates and you can spray them down good with some penetrating oil which might free them up.
There is a slotted opening for adjusting the emer. brake shoes with a brake spoon on the backing plate on each of the rear brakes.

YOU ARE AWESOME! however, I do have to do the brakes... and I'm on a roll... error ummm well a lack-there of, causing me to take the next step and do the brakes. My husband was so thrilled that I saved us this much money he's given me the green light to do new pads, rotors (needs new no turning) and calipers... the E-brake eventually released but... now when I tap the brakes the rear right locks up... so... theres that

ESP/BAS ESC with engine stall

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