My Jeep Liberty CRD 2.8l 4x4 cuts out when I stop at a traffic light or stop street. Especially after driving for a while and mostly but not always in heavy traffic. Any advice on what the problem can be? Does start immediately though.

Many have had a faulty crankshaft position sensor that causes stalls, but then will start back up, usually after a period of cool down.

Could be that your fuel filter needs to be replaced.

Could be air entering into the fuel lines. Do you have a lift pump?

Just a few of the easier possibilities...

_________________
2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax

I'd put money on a fuel system issue. When I installed my fuel pump, I guess my wiring to splice the new line in for the pump power wasn't up to snuff and would occasionally cut out on me in the middle of traffic. I would jump out and lift the access panel (That I cut in the floor in the back, thank god) and wiggle the wires around, reconnect the electrical connector, etc and it would fire back up. Very embarrassing. This same thing can happen without a fuel pump if your filter is clogged or you have air entering into the system, as iakj11 pointed out. Replace that filter for starters, then prime the plunger on the filter head until it is hard, open the bleeder and repeat until you get solid fuel. Run the motor for a few minutes then turn it off. Repeat the plunger procedure. If you have air the second time around then you have an air ingress leak somewhere (usually at the connectors in front of the tank). At the very least you need to get those leaks shored up. This is why most people recommend an in-tank pump. It forces all the air out of the system (and the fuel too, if the leak is big enough!) so there are no air in fuel issues to worry about.

_________________
2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

As others have posted, its probably fuel. If fuel delivery is not the problem, one of the next (a part from a sensor) would be if the torque converter is locking up at low speed. I have had it happen a couple of times when the engine/trans is cold. Try dropping it into neutral as you slow to a stop & see if it still stalls.

_________________
Australian KJ CRD 2006

Thanks for the reply. I have been dropping it into neutral as I come to a stop and then it keeps on running. Is this normal for this type of car or is there a solution to not having to do this? Does become quite a problem in heavy traffic.

It sounds like you're experiencing a common problem with these transmissions. I have this too, but like layback40, only occasionally after startup on cool mornings. It feels like forgetting to hit the clutch at a stop in a manual transmission. Kind of a violent wrestling mach with that little beasty under the hood. Your variety sounds more frequent and maybe less violent?
There has been plenty of discussion of this on lost. Just use google and search "transmission drain back site:www.lostjeeps.com". Easy things to do first are check trans fluid level and make sure it is filled with the right stuff. The marks on the trans dipstcks are wrong, so it should be well over 'full' and you should see clean atf+4 fluid. If you do a fluid change, there are some parts that should be replaced while the pan is off. Maybe someone with experience doing that will chime in here.

_________________
2005 KJ CRD SOLD in 2021
V6 Airbox, Samco Hoses, Provent
Weeks 1&2, Thrush Glasspack
Facet Fuel Pump, Secondary Fuel Filter
ARPs, 188 Degree Thermostat
GDE Eco Tune Full Torque
OME 1.5", JBA A-Arms and Top Plates
245/75/16s, Spidertrax

Drainback issues results in slip\no gear engagement\vehicle won't move until pump picks up enough fluid to build up hydraulic pressure in the apply circuits when first starting the vehicle after it sets overnight or for several hours.
The engine stalling immediately after startup and driving it a few hundred feet and trying to come to a stop with the vehicle is a common problem with worn parts in the front pump assembly of the transmission.
The original oil pump housing in the transmission was failure prone resulting in low transmission oil pressure which led to torque converter problems and shifting issues.
Severe wear of the TC limit valve bore in the front pump housing results in loss of converter release oil pressure. Reduced release pressure at low speed and idle can drag the converter linings, causing engine surge, pulsation or even engine stall.
Best to replace the front pump assembly anytime you have the transmission out for any other reason if it has never been replaced. Most also add a TransGo Kit at the same time.
https://www.idparts.com/transmission-oi ... 1C52Li6Nw8

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve