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 Post subject: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2020 11:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2019 12:50 am
Posts: 5
Hi everyone, new member here. I have acquired a 2004 liberty that some of you may recognize.

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Currently has a little over 140k miles and needs a few items. from what i understand this jeep used to be owned by tokyojoe. I thought since this Jeep has previously been in the forums a lot, that I should continue with it. I bought it in running and driving shape but it does have a few issues which I will try to correct. In the end, this vehicle is going to a close family member and so I want it to be a very reliable vehicle.

edit: got the pictures to post in full size hopefully
So far the list goes as follows
-fix the no start when hot issue that a lot of liberties seem to have.
-sand and repaint the bumpers
-fix the rock sliders (rust)
-investigate loud suspension in the front (seems to bottom out easily)
-get new shocks on the rear
-change all fluids
-fix abs code (should be easy)
-remove aftermarket electronics that are unnecessary
-add air pressure sensors in the tires to get rid of the annoying chime
-any thing else I see as I’m working on it

A little about me, I have some experience is building offroad vehicles and vehicle repair. This is my other major time sink

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Before it became what it is today I did a lot of work with the stock suspension. Ultimately the weakest link was the front diff housing (cast aluminum) and thus I did what any sane person does, re engineer the entire vehicle lol.

Anyway I’ll post updates on how this project is going from time to time. Some of the stuff on the list is already done I just need to take some pictures. Hopefully someone finds some useful information in this thread or at the very least finds something to laugh at. Also this is the first Jeep I’ve ever worked on, let alone the first liberty so any tips will be appreciated.


Last edited by ROCKOTA on Mon Jan 20, 2020 1:11 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 7173
Location: Central GA
FYI, your pictures not showing. :wink:
you have to copy pictures to a photo host web page site like https://postimages.org/ or one of the other photo host sharing sites and then copy and paste the img url to your LOST Jeeps post using the "Img" button above.

Will look something like this example:
[url=https://postimg.cc/name of file.jpg[/img]https://postimg.cc/name of file.jpg[/img[/url]

Some other Photo Sharing Host Sites:
Google Photos. Google Photos is one of the best image hosting services for uploading high-quality photos in large quantities. ...
Imgur. ...
Dropbox. ...
TinyPic. ...
Use. ...
Flickr. ...
500px. ...
SmugMug.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2020 11:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2019 12:50 am
Posts: 5
sorry about that. First time trying to use google photos. They should be view able now hopefully lol.

Anyho, some progress got done, not in this particular order.

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Thats from just the rear bumper! probably lost a good 15lbs in rust. There were some sections completely rotted through (luckily not in a structural area). Got some patch panels welded in. Sanded witha grinder and flap wheel best as i could and hit it with some primer and semi gloss black paint. They will never look as good as they did when new but its alot better than they used to look and only took a couple of hours to do.

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Dont have any pictures of the front but it was similar, though there was less rust. This is one of the reasons i'm not a fan of powdercoating. It works too good and tends to hold moisture underneath the paint. There were sections on this bumper that looked good but when i hit it with a hammer, sheets of paint came of revealing the rust and scale underneath.

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Finished product. Not perfectly flat or smooth but alot better than before. Should last for a couple more years before they need to be repainted. Should mention, from my understanding these are rock lizard fab bumpers. Overall pretty impressed with the build quality, rust aside. They fit nicely and were easy to remove and install. Only issue with installing them was the front turn indicators were a pain to plug in.


Last edited by ROCKOTA on Mon Jan 20, 2020 1:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 12:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2019 12:50 am
Posts: 5
So with the liberty looking alot better, i felt more motivated to work on other issues lol.

Lets start with the no start when warm issue. From my research, it seems alot of people have this issue and a few claim its because of vapor lock (on an fuel injected system? impossible!). I didnt believe it myself until it happened to me while driving it. I did a 1 hour trip and after that 1 hour trip i made 2 short errand stops. On the second stop it would crank, fire for a split second, then die. I got out and pushed the shrader valve on on the passenger side of the fuel rail and to my suprise, mostly vapor come out. After letting alot of vapor out, it started but missed alot, threw a code but continued to run. After 30 seconds of idling, all was well and there was no missing. So now i know the issue is the fuel rail getting heat soaked and vapor locking the engine. The question is how to fix it.

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I happened upon a 2009 liberty at the junkyard and noticed it has a stainless fuel rail. Stainless steel is known for its corrosion resistance, but also has a lower coefficient of heat transfer. Also, being shiny and polished reduces the heat transfer. As opposed to this

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The OEM fuel rail is of steel construction with black paint. The black paint will absorb more paint than a shiny surface. And to make it worse, the surface was rough and corroded which could lead to even more thermal transfer. Luckily, the 3.7l changed very little over the years and the newer fuel rail fits perfectly. I also replaced the 6 injectors with new ones while i had it out. As of writing this i took it on a drive similar to the one that caused the issue in the first place and did not have the vapor lock problem. Hopefully this fixes the issue, if it doesn't i intended to build either a heat shield or use some reflective tape to keep the fuel rail cool. The main problem from what ive seen in this jeep is the radiator radiator expansion tank AND the heater core hoses run within 3 inches of the fuel rail on the passenger side. I believe this is reason that the fuel rail gets heat soaked over time, that combined with the 10% ethanol gas (boiling point is lower) is likely the cause. I will continue to report on whether this is a complete fix for this thing.

Thats all for now. Hopefully these pictures stay up, it seems to work in the preview so idk.


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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Mon Jan 20, 2020 1:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 7173
Location: Central GA
Good looking Dakota! I always liked them and wish Dodge still made them. They were great little trucks especially when it had the 360 in it. :SOMBRERO:

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Tue Jan 21, 2020 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2019 12:50 am
Posts: 5
Thanks! I get a lot of complements on it. They make excellent rock crawlers.

A little more work done today. Got the abs code figured out.

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someone had replaced the sensor and didn't secure the wire properly... New sensor is in and secured properly so it wont happen again

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No more nagging abs light to deal with.

Also, still have not had the no start when hot issue reappear yet. Hopefully it doesn't come back in the summer time with the hotter temps...

Thats all i got for now.


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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Wed Jan 22, 2020 10:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:43 pm
Posts: 324
Location: Dubuque, IA
Keep up the good work. I had no idea about the vapor lock issue on the 3.7, as it has not happened to me. But if it does happen, I will check the schrader valve for vapor or liquid.

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Phil
2005 131k 3.7 Gasser (Lifted-CRD Springs, 4.10 Gears, F+R DTT, Teraflex 2wd Low, Skidrow/Mopar Skids, Rock Lizard Super Skinks, Goodyear Wrangler Authority 31x10.5-15)
2012 Triumph Tiger (TKC 80 Front Tire Heidnau K60 Rear, Crash Bars, Skid Plate, Bark Busters, Pelican Case Top Box)


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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 10:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2019 12:50 am
Posts: 5
Sorry for the long wait, every weekend its been either snowing or I've been busy with other stuff.

Finally got around to fixing the suspension. Front was a mess and the rear had utterly ruined shocks.

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Looks good from afar, right?

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From my research this was a rockfather 4" lift kit in the front. Basically it consisted of OME coils and shocks with a custom top bracket and a coil spring spacer (3/8" thick). Theres a number of issues with this suspension. The biggest was the fact that when the suspension was drooped out, the coil would contact the frame causing a loud clunk. And on up travel, the shock would bottom out too early causing an even louder clunk when going over anything larger than an expansion joint. Basically the shock position was all wrong, it didn't limit down travel properly and did not allow proper up travel. This ontop of the fact that there were no coil isolators can make for a noisy ride. The current ride height of the jeep is fine, the CVs angles look good as do the tie rod so i didnt want to change the ride height, just wanted the full travel. So Here is what i did...

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Looks the same and has about the same ride height (dropped by 3/4"). But if you take a closer look

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Basically just replaced the top plate with a stock OEM top plate. This would have dropped the vehical about 2-2.5" so to regain that, i just installed the factory spring isolators. The end result is a suspension that doesn't bind or make loud noises. I was shocked at the difference it made at first. I know i sacrificed about 2" of downtravel, but i also gained about 4" of up travel. Pulling out the shocks at first was crazy, you could tell the coilovers were too long before i even had them out. Once i had them out i found that even after the ball joints reached their binding angle, the old design was trying to push them near ~2" further! Thats a good way to break a ball joint or control arm. Not only was the suspension quieter, it also worked better. I could actual take speed bumps and road gutter crossings at alot higher speed and the shocks and springs would work excellent. I have not tried it offroad yet because of the snow but i will say these OME shocks are pretty good. Overall wasn't that much work to fix this and costed around $70 total.

The rear was even easier...

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I think the rear shocks are bad... LOL. Looked to me like the boot kept water on the top of the shock an rusted it away. When i removed the passenger side it has a couple inches of standing water in the boot. Needless to say it rusted the shaft pretty bad and caused it to leak out nearly all the oil.

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In with the new

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I got these shocks from the junkyard at $4 a piece. They are from the rear of an 08 jeep commader that had pretty low miles. I didnt see any leaks on the outside and they were pretty clean so i figured i would try them. The length is exactly the same as a dakota rear shock so its perfect for a 2-3" lift in the rear. Fitment would have been easy if the PO didnt bend the shock tabs in to fit the old shocks, which had a narrower bushing. You could tell the old ones were too narrow because the bottom had like 4 washers between the bushing and the shock bracket. Once i got those straightened, the shocks went in no problem. If i had the money, i would have rather installed the OME shocks in the rear, but this is kind of a budget build so these will do just fine. These rear shocks made a world of difference as well. It got rid of the annoying shock clunk and groan from the passenger rear corner. These shocks might be a little on the stiff side but that is fine.

Overall for not much dough invested it totally improved the suspension. Were before i would wince everytime i came to an expansion joint, now its smooth even over those pesky parking lot speed bumps.

Thats all for now. Hopefully the weather cooperates this weekend and i can get alittle more work done. I also have alot to do to my truck to get it ready for a moab trip thats coming up so ive got alot of work ahead of me.


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 Post subject: Re: 2004 kJ (re)build
PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 5:41 pm 
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Thanks for sharing! Lots of great info. :JEEPIN:


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