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 Post subject: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 ifs?)
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 2:38 pm 
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Based on a post here on lost (I'll link it later), I bought the dana30 OX integrated air for the front dif. Well, that post is wrong, and it doesn't fit. I was in a rush and had the local shop install it, so I'm out a $300+ install and have an $1100 locker that is now used...
Anyhow, I read that there is a dana 30 IFS version??? If so, how much fabrication is involved in making it fit the KJ? I'm not really interested in ARB's as my rear integrated-air OX is amazing.
Short of me finding a used JBA steel dif, I'm out a lot of cash.
I know many will say go SFA, but I'd go JKU with 35's before I'd spend another fortune on my KJ, unless the dana SFA version would only be a front end, $3-5k ordeal.

I appreciate any advice!
Be careful what you read...

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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2020 2:46 pm 
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Here's the thread that mislead me. I've PM'd parker fabrication to no avail. Maybe he'll sell me his front jba dif to make this right.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83716

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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 1:01 pm 
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The only front diff locker that I believe works for the d30a is an elocker from Eaton, but I think they stopped making it. IMO you’re better off going with a lsd in the front and a locker in back. I think that’s about as much as you can reasonably do on the kJ


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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 2:52 pm 
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I believe it has been recommended by several members on LOST not to install a "Locker" in the 30A differential due to the weakness of the case in the pinion bearing area.
Limited slip seems to the differential of choice.... :juggle:

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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2020 6:57 pm 
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For those who don't peruse the CRD forum, I installed an Eaton Elocker in the front of my KJ over the summer. I'm not a rock crawler, I mainly need it for mud and snow - and it's been great for that so far. So I keep it in the back of my mind that it's an aluminum diff and to go easy on the skinny pedal when it's locked in. I only use it in the modes where the center diff is locked (4PT and 4LO) so that the front axle is not getting the full engine torque.

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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 2:57 am 
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What do you have out back?


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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 10:07 am 
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Detroit Truetrac

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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 10:57 am 
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Why not install another truetrac up front?


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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2020 2:29 pm 
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I ended up with an ARB up front, they do fit, but gotta be careful. The DTT is a safer bet and much less$$

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Mech fan, VH & AC delete


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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Sat Dec 26, 2020 1:47 pm 
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mercdude wrote:
Why not install another truetrac up front?


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More traction :D

Also I use 4WD FT a lot on snowy roads and wanted the front diff to be fully open, thinking that it would result in less funny handling.

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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 4:52 pm 
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Well. I had the same exact thought about funny driving in the snow with FT engaged, except I was concerned about the rear. Even with the trac lok and triple peak AT tires I could easily go sideways with light throttle on snow/ice. That's knarly and scary.

So I went LSD up front. Here's my thought: with FT engaged at worst it'll be like a LSD front wheel drive, which is better in the snow than a rear wheel drive. I've found that front traction in slippery situations is more important than rear traction. Better yet is even traction, but I failed to foresee that I should have done a TT all the way round.

Evidence: last year, went up a 20% incline on pavement with ice. Starting 2HI with my new Cooper discovery tires, got about 100' then lost grip and slipped down road. Hit brakes and came to stop. With a fresh rear OX locker I was confident this would solve the problem and I engaged it but only went sideways, not up the hill. Disengaged rear locker. Now frustrated with the lack of progress and embarrassed that my $2k mod wasn't panning out so well, I resorted to engaging PT 4HI. I went up that hill for 1/2 mile like it was nothing. Lesson learned.


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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2021 11:29 pm 
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Sounds like you have a nice setup. There are definitely situations that would favor one or the other. We basically have opposite traction adders in our F/R axles. It would be fun to meet up somewhere that we could compare the performance.

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RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.


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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2021 12:44 am 
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CATCRD wrote:
Sounds like you have a nice setup. There are definitely situations that would favor one or the other. We basically have opposite traction adders in our F/R axles. It would be fun to meet up somewhere that we could compare the performance.
How do you use the locker/lsd combo? What situation have you found it works best? And what equipment do you have?


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 Post subject: Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i
PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2021 11:08 am 
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I haven't done a lot of experimentation in very many situations, I pretty much just flip on the front elocker a bit before the snowy or muddy patches. Sometimes I'll add some additional parking brake on the way up to bias the rear truetrac a little more. I do find that I need to disengage the front when descending anything slippery, either in forward or reverse, or it doesn't really go where I point it.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.


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