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Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 ifs?)
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=91626
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Author:  Mountainman [ Mon Aug 17, 2020 2:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 ifs?)

Based on a post here on lost (I'll link it later), I bought the dana30 OX integrated air for the front dif. Well, that post is wrong, and it doesn't fit. I was in a rush and had the local shop install it, so I'm out a $300+ install and have an $1100 locker that is now used...
Anyhow, I read that there is a dana 30 IFS version??? If so, how much fabrication is involved in making it fit the KJ? I'm not really interested in ARB's as my rear integrated-air OX is amazing.
Short of me finding a used JBA steel dif, I'm out a lot of cash.
I know many will say go SFA, but I'd go JKU with 35's before I'd spend another fortune on my KJ, unless the dana SFA version would only be a front end, $3-5k ordeal.

I appreciate any advice!
Be careful what you read...

Author:  Mountainman [ Mon Aug 17, 2020 2:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

Here's the thread that mislead me. I've PM'd parker fabrication to no avail. Maybe he'll sell me his front jba dif to make this right.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83716

Author:  mercdude [ Wed Dec 23, 2020 1:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

The only front diff locker that I believe works for the d30a is an elocker from Eaton, but I think they stopped making it. IMO you’re better off going with a lsd in the front and a locker in back. I think that’s about as much as you can reasonably do on the kJ


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Author:  WWDiesel [ Wed Dec 23, 2020 2:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

I believe it has been recommended by several members on LOST not to install a "Locker" in the 30A differential due to the weakness of the case in the pinion bearing area.
Limited slip seems to the differential of choice.... :juggle:

Author:  CATCRD [ Wed Dec 23, 2020 6:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

For those who don't peruse the CRD forum, I installed an Eaton Elocker in the front of my KJ over the summer. I'm not a rock crawler, I mainly need it for mud and snow - and it's been great for that so far. So I keep it in the back of my mind that it's an aluminum diff and to go easy on the skinny pedal when it's locked in. I only use it in the modes where the center diff is locked (4PT and 4LO) so that the front axle is not getting the full engine torque.

Author:  mercdude [ Thu Dec 24, 2020 2:57 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

What do you have out back?


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Author:  CATCRD [ Thu Dec 24, 2020 10:07 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

Detroit Truetrac

Author:  mercdude [ Thu Dec 24, 2020 10:57 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

Why not install another truetrac up front?


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Author:  Mountainman [ Fri Dec 25, 2020 2:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

I ended up with an ARB up front, they do fit, but gotta be careful. The DTT is a safer bet and much less$$

Author:  CATCRD [ Sat Dec 26, 2020 1:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

mercdude wrote:
Why not install another truetrac up front?


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More traction :D

Also I use 4WD FT a lot on snowy roads and wanted the front diff to be fully open, thinking that it would result in less funny handling.

Author:  mercdude [ Fri Jan 22, 2021 4:52 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

Well. I had the same exact thought about funny driving in the snow with FT engaged, except I was concerned about the rear. Even with the trac lok and triple peak AT tires I could easily go sideways with light throttle on snow/ice. That's knarly and scary.

So I went LSD up front. Here's my thought: with FT engaged at worst it'll be like a LSD front wheel drive, which is better in the snow than a rear wheel drive. I've found that front traction in slippery situations is more important than rear traction. Better yet is even traction, but I failed to foresee that I should have done a TT all the way round.

Evidence: last year, went up a 20% incline on pavement with ice. Starting 2HI with my new Cooper discovery tires, got about 100' then lost grip and slipped down road. Hit brakes and came to stop. With a fresh rear OX locker I was confident this would solve the problem and I engaged it but only went sideways, not up the hill. Disengaged rear locker. Now frustrated with the lack of progress and embarrassed that my $2k mod wasn't panning out so well, I resorted to engaging PT 4HI. I went up that hill for 1/2 mile like it was nothing. Lesson learned.

Author:  CATCRD [ Fri Feb 05, 2021 11:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

Sounds like you have a nice setup. There are definitely situations that would favor one or the other. We basically have opposite traction adders in our F/R axles. It would be fun to meet up somewhere that we could compare the performance.

Author:  mercdude [ Sat Feb 06, 2021 12:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

CATCRD wrote:
Sounds like you have a nice setup. There are definitely situations that would favor one or the other. We basically have opposite traction adders in our F/R axles. It would be fun to meet up somewhere that we could compare the performance.
How do you use the locker/lsd combo? What situation have you found it works best? And what equipment do you have?


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Author:  CATCRD [ Tue Feb 09, 2021 11:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Least expensive way to get an OX in the front (dana 30 i

I haven't done a lot of experimentation in very many situations, I pretty much just flip on the front elocker a bit before the snowy or muddy patches. Sometimes I'll add some additional parking brake on the way up to bias the rear truetrac a little more. I do find that I need to disengage the front when descending anything slippery, either in forward or reverse, or it doesn't really go where I point it.

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